Individualities

Liking the sound of Holset/Steve Murch vs the others, as I plan on going Twin Scroll. Hopefully I can fit it in a twisted location in a BE engine bay, with top mount lol. Could even do a bottom mount! Was just using the Garretts as an example. I agree that they're expensive, but they're pretty dang good for what you get. More so paying for the Garrett name though. I'm not afraid of the extra fab work needed for an external wastegate - I was gonna go down that path anyway (better boost control). I'll be running a top mount intercooler, for Sleeper & Stealth status, so I can probably get away with a bolt on BOV (speed density too). Probably get GFB stuff, unless there's a local NZ company that makes stuff like wastegates, BOVs and boost controllers etcetera. I know I'll be making my build expensive lol - but I wanna do it properly. I'm a perfectionist, and this is something I'd love to make so!

So what sort of turbo would you be running? I'm currently stuck between a few options, and am open to further suggestions (from I have discovered)... - TD05HRA-16G6C/10.5T (EVO 9 RS turbo) - Garrett GTX3071R Gen II (EVO 10 turbo upgrade - good for 550hp apparently) - Garrett G25-550 Ideally something that's making full boost at around 3000-3500rpm.

Yeah true. But the fact they list the same spring rates for 3rd/4th gens says that you could probably get away with running either in either.

Not sure if this helps, but had a quick look at what MCA say for springs on BE/BH vs BL/BP Legacy's, and they're the same spring rates. One thing to take note of is that BL/BP Legacy's have less travel in their front suspension due to their front inner rear bushing being vertical, rather than horizontal like on the BE/BH.

Could always have them tested at an auto sparkie just to be sure your current one's are working properly. Probably just one that's faulting every now and again. Could also have the car scanned, and see if there are any stored mis-fire codes.

VF38 turbos only came on the 03-05 EJ20X (automatic) Legacy's. 03-05 EJ20Y Legacy's are TD04. Then 06 is VF44 for auto & manual, and VF45 for 07-09 auto/manual.

Those are basically the same specs as S401 wheels too. The STI Wheels are exactly the same specs, so if you have Brembos, they'll very likely clear them! I'm very tempted on those ones... But ultimately wanting some S402 (S203/S204) wheels, as they're a little wider at 18x8 (vs 18x7.5), so I can run a wider tire for more grip (like a 245/40/18). Also, 18"s are the way to go in my opinion. Tire prices are slowly coming down for 18"s, and they're a good balance of looks and handling. 19"s are a little too big in my opinion, and 17"s are ok, but look just a touch too small.

$7 large straw hat And definitely apply that sun screen super regularly!

D'oh! I though LINK was American all this time! Well, definitely gonna have to look at a LINK then. Will most likely go with them now. Not disappointed to not be using Haltech, but glad that someone pointed out LINK to me! Want something that I can do FlexFuel with (I don't understand the model range). Something in their higher range (if it's worth doing, it's worth over doing). With the engine I'll be using, and from what I've seen with @McMasterJamie's wicked BE Legacy, I can probably get away with a V7-9 STI plug and play kit (means I can also look into a V8/9 EJ207 too, as I'm probably going Twin Scroll Turbo)!? Have to have a chat to LINK when I'm nearing that part of the build. I have no idea who I'd want to tune the car! Not too keen on PBMS at the moment. If someone can recommend someone in the upper North Island (or just North Island), I'd be happy to trailer (more likely truck, cos I have my licenses ) my car to them for a tune!

Good to know. I'll probably do something similar myself. So it replaces the little vent thats in the dash? I'm fine with that. Haltech is a reasonably local company, being based out of Australia. The support is there, and easy to access, and parts too. I'm not afraid of cost, due to me taking my time with this, and probably gonna build the car up over the next 3-5 years. Gonna get my Motorbike license too, so I have a cheap means of transport for when the car isn't driveable. Things are looking very promising for a job on the Puhoi-Warkworth extension as a machinery operator as this stage... so I should be able to save pretty easily.

I miss driving round the Wellington bays . Beautiful in a very unique, and rugged way. Kinda like the West coast in a number of places. I grew up down there, but moved north with my parents in 2008. I owe Whangarei and Northland a lot for who I am now, but my goodness I miss Wellington! I'd love to spend a month just holidaying down there and exploring the greater region. There's a lot I didn't ever get to do, due to be young and all that. Me like how tidy that is! I'm thinking about where to mount my Haletch CAN gauge in my BE when I get round to getting that far - I'm linking possibly off of the face of the cigarette ash tray down by the shifter, as I'd be able to not run it all the time. But I'd like something like how that is right now, but for a BE.

I'm probably gonna buy a V7 STI EJ207, close deck it, and forged internals - kinda like how the Speed Academy fellas are doing at the moment. I'm gonna be building this engine up for a while, with the intent of throwing it in the car once it's all done, and I have everything ready for the swap to happen, like Haltech ECU etc as well. First, MCA coilovers & Whiteline for the suspension, and upgrade the transmission/diffs, before engine happens.

I'd probably do a combination of stroke/bore - more stroke, for torque. Gotta have the 8000rpm redline though, WRX STI 6 speed gearing woooo

I like the sound of this... making me want to go down that route of making mine a 2.2.

If it looks like this, it'll be the McIntosh system. Nah, they're not NZ. Buddy of mine whom I PC game with listens to them, and suggested them to me. Kind of a modern take of the classics like Metallica and the like.

Was the speaker completely rooted? Otherwise it would probably one of those clips around the door card that hold it to the door that was rattling away. I've heard that the factory McIntosh system is actually pretty good. McIntosh, which is a American home stereo company, which is held very highly, spent about a year (from what I've heard) in Japan developing a bespoke sound system for the BE/BH Legacy, then the BL/BP Legacy (when they came along). That's quite a lot of effort, for what is a very "ordinary" car basically. If you've got the McIntosh system with the amp under the drivers seat and all that - there is a way to interface an aftermarket headunit into the amp. There's a thread about it here. I haven't tried this myself, as the amp in my car died (board problem - ain't good with micro-electronics so joined the wires under the seat), but I've heard from some people that it works well! Obviously, not as good as a modern 5 channel amp there, with proper good speakers from Alpine or Kenwood, but it's not bad. I do plan on wiring up a 5 channel amp with some Kenwood/Alpine speakers sometime (utilising the stock 6x9 McIntosh sub - I can't justify the boot space for a proper big sub). But first, I need to get me an AndroidAuto capable headunit... That's some music taste! Try Dance Gavin Dance, I See Stars, Tides of Man, & King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard a listen. They might be to your liking.

Could've just got a new set of 6 inch speakers instead. But if your budget's tight, fair call on the wreckers.

Semi-metallic pads will also be pretty harsh on the rotors, due to a higher metal content in them. For road cars, ceramic is the best. For your rears, those SCA ones will be fine. It's only the rear brakes after all. Fronts is where you want decent pads. $100 will get you a pretty decent set of front pads. The DB1678 Remsa Reds in my front Brembos are $120ish trade price. Will be going to RaceBrakes for my next set of rotors/pads

Exactly. Wet sand paper too. That way the paper doesn't clog up as fast. The 3000 grit pad in the NuLens kit is basically like a fine scotch brite pad.

If the pads have enough material on them, they won't need changing. IIRC they're DB1170 for the 4 pot Sumitomo-Subaru fronts (DB1678 for 4 pot Brembo fronts), and DB1156 for the 2 pot Sumitomo-Subaru/Brembo rear calipers? New pads will come with shims and all that I'd think. I'd recommend Red Remsa pads (they have the shims etc in box), plus they're good ceramic street pads. DO NOT get Repco RTQ pads - they're easily the worst pads on the market. You probably only need a decent set of street pads anyway. Clips to hold in the pads should already be with the caliper (minus what you're missing). I will add that with my car, which has Brembos front and rear, that I have a slight clunk from the brakes when taking off, which is just the pads slipping back and forth in the caliper - I personally don't worry about this, as I know it's a harmless noise. If the rotors are not at their minimum thickness, you can get them machined - only really need to do this for the fronts, as they do the majority of the braking. You can pad slap the rears if the rotors are in good nick. If the rotors are under the minimum thickness, they will need replacing.

That's natural for BP though. I've found Mobil 98 to be the best 98 in my opinion. Haven't used Gull Force 10, due to the Ethanol and the tune. But once I do my engine build and tune, I'll probably run it on GF10 most of the time. Also be able to put Gull Force Pro in it

Don't even touch 91 with a Turbo Subaru! 95 at least. I know once I go down the path of ST for my BE, I'll be doing the petrol tune with 95, and be doing FlexFuel too, so E85. @thewabbit1 did Silicone hoses on his wagon. Post about the hoses etcetera here. Not sure where to get them, I'm sure wabbit would know!

They're on the rear glass. If you look closely, you see that there's no vertical line between two of them. The upper one is your radio aerial. Primary on the TT engines is passenger side. The little smol one. In my recent experiences with the EJ208(/6), I've found that the secondary fails. I've had my secondary done. Primary (VF33) is MINT. While you've got the intercooler off, replace the charge pipes from the turbos to intercooler with Silicone ones, rather than the concertina ones from factory. Negligible difference, but picks up a few HP (5 at most) - just smoothing out the air flow.

I would say if the clutch has never been done, it would be dual mass. Single mass if you're gonna be doing it (unless it already has one). Doesn't need to replaced each clutch, and can be resurfaced. Plus also removes the chance of the 2 parts separating.

I'll swap them out, as I take my car to the local Testing Station, which I've found to be strict, but fair at the same time. I'll swap em back once I have my WoF I'll NEVER take my car to VTNZ - I've found them to be pretty strict, and also not helped by a guy there not liking my car, and calling it a fake because of the chassis code being "BES" not "BE5" I'm gonna play it safe, as I don't know what will happen. And I'd rather my car pass a WoF cleanly, than fail for a simple thing like retrofitted LEDs. The warm-up time is something OSRAM and Philips both advertise. LEDs react basically instantly. Plus, LEDs are just, cool in my mind.