funkytown

if its knocking loudly from inside the motor that can only be metal on metal bits. ive looked inside several, only metal i promise. it wont just be gerbals with marrakas inside your motor starting a party at your expense either. rly... i promise this too. history tells me where thats happening things dont last very long and is not how the factory designed it ... so il say it again.. driving it or turning it on is a REALLY dumb idea. also it just occured to me that if my chance there were gerbals with marrakas and one of those marrakas did come apart and find its way around your motor this also would also be a very poor outcome for the overall health of your motor (and the gerbal for that matter). those beads inside them are many in number..

location is ALL about turbo size and the auxiliaries around it, and where you want to put an EWG if you go that way. generall there is a trade off in angle of turbo vs not hitting stuff just given the RHD nature of the cars here and size of housings on the turbo and screwing it round far enough to clear the intake runner and not smashing into the brake booster / clutchr res. This you will work out quite quickly putting a large snail in the hole to check. DO NOT BOTHER twisting a VF turbo. totally pointless. gives you wank factor but thats it im sorry. twisting anything gt30 sized or a Holset or equiv and twisting is mandatory. I have seen people run a gt28xx in stock location with some sucess. they are quite fiddly to set up though. With respect to the angle it alldepends on the turbo core and bearing type, obviously you can center them in the rotational axis as the housings generally rotate around the CHRA - depending obviously on the choice of wastegate design, interal or external. To know what the manufactorers permit it will vary from manu to manu.. look up on the net is my advise, but its bother all in the real word. For garretts its something like 14-16 degs back to front off level, which in practice is bother all, and im yet to see a twisted garrett (on a subaru) sit within those tolerances .. unless the down pipe is run over the gearbox and down the passenger side firewall space. but thats very complicated. On subarus in case you havent worked it out by now - swapping for a larger than factory turbo is a REAL bastard. from experience at least a 3 bolt flange on the uppipe / headers is a really good idea, and the uppipe requires a good amount of strengthening to hold a heavier turbo too. Also from my personal XP the v band flanges on EWG\'s and Downpipes are generally the way to go for ease of fitmint and removal. And ballsrburing has good practical advice above as well. 3" DP is where its all from anything above 250wheel KW.. OH something he hasnt done which is really recommened is putting a LARGE 3" flexi in the DP - allows for a good amout of movement with engine movement and heat expansion. With respect to uppipe diameter its best you talk to engine tuners / builders about your hopes and dreams, there is quite a few schools of thought on this. Personally i have reaonably large Uppipe, others swear much smaller is better. All i know is my motor has very good VE and it doesnt take a long time to spool quite a big turbo. YMMV.

yes it will bolt straight up. only thing to watch out for as i duno what clutch type the fox has is that they are matched pull or push type. that box mightbe quick a bit longer ratio than your one too btw.

As above. But basically best results are buy turbo you want and build twisted up / down to suit. Dont twist now and swap turbo size or frames later.. waste of your money and it will never line up properly so mo ey wasted re hashing it. Generally off the shelf stuff also never lines up

Big engine knock = big end. Do not drive it.

these are OZ 18\'s but very close in style to the factory 18s on the BP legacy.

ford xr5 / focus thing? audi S3?

he said before turbos were overspooling and factory boost control wasnt doing its job

85mm.. ah i see.. 88mm stroke.

brand / size / specification?

To have a roof scoop itl be an RA or a prodrive. R\'s dont exist in v7. Abs/no dccd/brembos fit with a tarmac version RA

wow. +1 scarles for fronting up

should be the same

lololol 9.5 good luck in your guards. to clear brembo\'s sensibly in a GC you want 17*8 and about +45 offset.. often still requires some gaurd beating

as same same as you could get imo..

:o :o explain!?

^ bet you there was preload on it spacing the mount down on one side does wonders for the car balance. (as an aside)

which bolts? would assume 19mm strut bolts.. a wee strong arm is what you need, and jam a 19 spanner on the other side against the hub / rotor

blanket statement: if you get on the track you have 100% responsibility for your own car in 100% of scenarios.

However: *For the effort it takes to undo one swaybar bolt its entirely worth it. * Don\'t assume you have play in the rear end (no tension on the sway bar) , i\'ve had to space down one side on a few cars to get a neutral bar with no suspension load on it

Johnny no not with out 3mm spacers. The bh legacy ones do.

in all seriousness it would appear you a touch out of your depth and should have someone that knows what they are looking at irl eye ball your project. no offense, you just want to have it correct / safe thats all

put the hub / cv in a big vice, heat + hammer + some pressure and itl give

both the 250t and bh legacy should be fine

yup they should fit fine, front axoes are almost all the same in that genre. ratio has nothing to do with it, nor does r160/80