funkytown

r180 is stronger than R160, but note there is no differentiation in the front diff, they are all the same. Its the rear end that differs. At this point i\'ll let you know i run r160 in the rear end of mine.. with dccd.. and 303wkw. i havent broken it. i think you\'ll be fine Craig... Your gearbox whines in reverse because its a straight cut gear.. this is normal. Replacing your gearbox has no bearing on replacing the r160/80 in the front end.. you just have to make sure you match the drive ratio.. which in your case is 4.444. (you can get r160 4.444 and r180 4.444 )

from scoobynet UK/Europe Impreza Turbo 2000 / GT MY99, TY754VN1AA. 3.166, 1.882, 1.296, 0.972, 0.738, 3.333, 1.000, 4.444, Viscous (4kgf), Open All WRX and STI (not R or RA) up to but not including v7 are r160. STI RA and STI R from v4 to v6 are all r180. Why are you putting in R180?

haha this can actually happen alot, but for different reasons

the factory one is usually pretty shit, the link 3 or 4 bar ones are a good investment

you\'ll probably need a 3bar map sensor and an air intake temp sensor, and you\'ll bin the AFM

and neekk minit... no sticker on the box.

you need to find the gearbox code off your passenger side strut tower. but likely to be open front, viscous center and rear

drove it from Wanganui to Hamilton via the para para... what an amazing road to do in the race car, didn\'t break the speed limit at all (that wasn\'t the point) and managed to clock in wgi to raetihi in 45mins.... such good corner speed and so easy to drive, so flat and so much grip in the corners. reckon you could go sub 30mins if you were \'allowed\' to have a crack. new coil overs are awesome, and it behaved the whole way up... stoked. most seat time in? 6 months. sad.

Mega ooober urgent.... any gc or gf warrantable factory suspension in wellington? My coil overs are rooted. Need sometbing today. Or mega wah

thats the puppy! nice score @ that price.

Yer thats det to me.

What revison is each? A/b/c?

Ill ask again.

If you go 2mm short at the top with normal pistons it will have hoooorible compression

Are you a normal paying customer or are you having it done on night / weekends, cheaper, when hes not busy etc...?

The head design on the na is different to turbo. U need to learn how to do some compression calcs. Thay will tell you hg size. However more than likely ul need to largest ypu can get being 1.6mm which means you just be working out just how high the cr remains.

just saying.

no, match the cylinder bore it wont seal otherwise. i dont see using that block will result in anything good as you describe it!!

wait so you want to punch a hole in the top of the surge tank? and vent to atmo? thats going to end up with fuel EVERYWHERE ?????????

as above there are serveral base options, not withstanding the gearbox choices: * 2.0l non turbo 4 banger - 3.5 donkey power * 2.0l twin scroll turbo 4 banger - 190 odd kw * 3.0l non turbo 6 banger - 180kw. there is 5 speed autos, 5 speed auto with tiptronic, 5 speed manual and a few rare 6 speed manuals.. just realised... you asked which \'bp5\'... if you knew that was the turbo version they are mostly the same, there is a bilstein spec one, and a non. power wise and drivetrain they are identical.

so im skeptical as hell as to what you\'re saying, can you draw me a picture please and post it up

you need to use the ej22 pistons, the NA ones are no good. Nor are the rods. once you\'ve done that the dish shape in the piston changes and drops the compression heaps. FWIW... i use a 1.6mm headgasket with the above turbo pistons and a phase 1 ej20k head (noting ej208 bowl shape is a touch different iirc) this nets about 8.4:1... just perfect. also.. make sure you get a multi layer steel headgaset.. ALL the non turbo ones ARENT. Also also.. if you\'re asking which HG you should be using (ej20 vs ej22) then you need to be doing more home work to understand whats going on.... p.s its the ej22 hg you need.

yer that.

are you talking out the outer rack end.. or the inner? the inners are known to get play in them and was reasonably $ to replace. perhaps that cost was all up incl labour, it was a while ago now

unsurprising, im sure itl be the LR shocks that \'go\' first as well. something weird goes on in that LR corner. and because of the amount of towing i do im sure the RR will pack up at some stage too but hey.