DRFVDR

if you mean performance wise then poos if you mean fuel usage, maybe a wee bit better but unless you get a FWD one then maybe a wee wee bit more better of to buy a toyota if you want better milage

well if he gets 1200 for that then I am upping my price

I have never been in his B4

I made a puller that takes my 10 tonne porta power, and bolts to the wheel studs, usually removes the axle, in car sometimes require heating and tapping while pressure is on,

or some one stuck a B4 badge on

if you need more space remove battery then do above

Pulled the hydrostatic drive in the lawnmower apart, no drive when oil hot

when I had my legacy, it was alarmed, and immobilised,I also did 2 other things one I had an extra siren put inside the car ( 110 db makes trying to steal stuff outta car a lot harder) I also had a switch panel under the stereo with 8 micro switches on it, none were labeled 4 immobilised the 2 circuits in the car to stop it from starting ( fuel and ignition) the other four did random things ( turbo timer,spotlights and 2 did nothing ) with out having the switches in the right order it would not start

It is because they are being over cautious as to being "sued" about the car going over speed to quickly. I drive to my speedo BUT I double check it with the GPS on my radar detector/phone. you can get an electronic speed adjuster that you may be able to fit to get your cruise to work better ( not sure if the cruise uses the speed sensor or ABS sensors for its speed)

yup the 2 wires soldered in are for the lock/unlock of the aftermarket alarm, better/safer/smarter than installing another door pump

just saying

go see your local subaru dealer take an arm and a leg OR for just an arm get an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser fitted

if it is a 1Kzte Toyota hiace BNT do a dual mass delete kit

some times called a grain of wheat bulb

hammer anything hard enough and it will deform yeah they are hard, especially where the balls run

work with alloy engine all the time,RARELY use a torque wrench, its all about feel

Actually you may have trouble machining them, they are pretty damn hard

And one day out shootin at some food

not trying to be an arse BUT as a warning drilling holes in a number plate can be deemed as a modification and then can be deemed illegal Only an issue if a cop/wof inspector has an axe to grind

I would suggest that the Banjo bolt was crossthreaded in the hole, easy to do if you are not cautious. what I would do would be to fit a helicoil into the hole, only REAL solution that will keep it some what OEM( nothing worse than replacing parts with larger/different then having issues later on and not being able to get parts) While tapping out the hole put grease on the tap It will capture 90% of the swarf, the rest will be able to be washed out with brake clean, Also a quick start and shut down so oil flows out of the hole before refitting the oil line will wash anything left over out

the outer CV is held together by a large circlip running around the inside of the outer ( some vehicles have this some dont) other than that it is just that it cant physically move far enough to fall to bits UNLESS you modify the steering to turn more You could try one and see what happens BUT I pretty much think you wont be able to machine enough out to make enough of a difference. Also they will only turn so far before they will bind up..

the balls will fall out

M12x1.25 should be easy as to get as most toyotas run that size

Yes, funny wear can cause funny noises type and expense of tire can make a crap load of difference in noise take it to a wheel alignment specialist ( NOT YOUR LOCAL TIRE PLACE) and see what they can do ( john Bates in Palmerston North would be one of the best places in NZ) they may be able to source something to make the rear adjustable. road noises can be a real pain in the arse and can take along time to sort have you checked that you dont have a bent/buckled rim ?

I\'d like more info on your tests. I have tested my speedo to the road markers 5k test marks that your see around the place (very accurate I hope) and my speedometer is out the same as the needle. My needle is also electronic operated and relies on the same signal as the speedometer so modifying this will fix it. In my case I have an equal odometer to needle read. Appreciate your information. It is interesting to know. Sent from my slutty assistant... Pretty much exactly as it says, using Torque Pro on my phone with the OBD11 bluetooth adapter, I had the dials on the phone set to KM/hr (ecu) KM/hr (gps) distance (ecu) Distance (Gps) and compared that to the readings from the vehicle odo/speedo, the odo read about 1-2% difference( to be expected with tire wear and such) the speedo was 10% out. so i came to the conclusion that the speedo and odo either take speed/distance from different sources OR the speedo has a built is error. I usually drive to my GPS on either my phone or my detector