Wiretap

Not neccessarily. Messing with the MAF tube is never a good idea though, as it can cause mis-measurement of the air leading to your car running either too rich or too lean So in Theory.... If i was to cut off the MAF setup on this tube, and take the MAF section out of the HKS one and hose joint it to my new tube it should run fine? In theory, yep. You have a better chance of it running fine using the HKS MAF tube that's for sure. I haven't extensively tested the newer MAFs, but older ones had some spectacular error if the filter was wrong or missing at higher power levels.

Not neccessarily. Messing with the MAF tube is never a good idea though, as it can cause mis-measurement of the air leading to your car running either too rich or too lean

Late model MAFs don't have any mesh across them to linearise the flow, so it's not _that_ weird.

Are you still using an appropriate MAF tube? Or is it a custom one? MAF sensor tubes are calibrated and don't like being messed with. Also, some air filters can cause turbulence which causes the MAF sensor to misread...

Make sure you run a 4.444 (auto BC/BF) diff with that as it's a GTB/STi box. I run one and it's the only box I haven't killed yet

Just a chassis earth. I wouldn't worry about it too much, it's only present on about 50% of them.

someones got something stuck up there a** today haha No. I just think that giving people bad advice that could lead to them spending money on something that is unusable for them, or results in them blowing up their car, is not a good idea.

What a load of rubbish. They are not 'upgrades' and in any case, you'd need adapters to even fit it. The existing manifold is perfectly fine for quite a bit more power. If you want an improvement invest in port and polish for both the manifold and the head.

My thoughts. If you want a Holden buy a Holden... Don't try and turn a Legacy into a Commodore.

Shims are on the buckets not the caps, if any fell out he may have put them back in the wrong places, so it may pay to check still.

Yes. Only in case of SOHC engines can the cams stay in. You only need to re-shim them if they've been jumbled up, you should be able to use a feeler gauge to check clearances.

If you want lots of low end torque and reasonable power in an NA, go for the EZ30R. Not the most common conversion, but at least you won't get every subaru owner on the planet turning their nose up at you. That and they've been known to make in the region of 500hp from 2500rpm once rebuilt for turbo use (conservative power figure, 700 and above have been done in rare occasions)

There were Link G3 Plug-ins and LinkPlus G3s. The LinkPlus is a universal wire-in (nevermind that it uses Subaru plugs, pinout is hugely different). The Link Plug-In will ONLY work on the same or similar car to what it was originally intended for.

To rich for my blood. Having a look at something a bit different this arvo. Probably get stoned to death for it but will see. 10k for you bruv.Cheap sti. Its a nice car and I would be keen but Its about twice the amount I was wanting to spend lol. Edit: I live in Htown now. Could pick up an STI for considerably less trololol. Tis true. Albeit raced rallied and rolled. Least with mine a. you know the car b. you know me and c. the car is mint. Sorry, that wasnt a dig at the price. I'd happily part with 10k for a nice STI v5/6 Just a little inuendo as Htown is apparently the STI capital of NZ lol STI = (sexually transmitted disease) for all those that are a little slow :I sanded and sanded an alloy oil filler spout 40,80,120 grit still got to do some in 400, 800, 1000, 1200 ;D Dunno bout you, but I think it probably is not going to be 'disease' since that doesn't start with 'I', maybe you mean 'infection'? Also, I just had to keep the quote pyramid going.

Any authorised Subaru dealer. You need more than just the timing belt. They should be able to sell you a cambelt service kit. This will include tensioner, idlers and seals. You should also change the water pump.

There are many good reasons for using only genuine parts. Especially with the cambelt as any failure in that region of the car will at the very least stop you moving and at the very worst destroy your engine.

I can swap you a set of standard STi struts and springs for them if you want? I'm in Auckland. You won't be making them much softer as the damping is what makes them feel so damn hard (trust me the pink springs are even worse, have them in my BC5).

V1/2 engines will physically fit however they will not make the same power, will possibly run rich or lean depending on induced MAF error, etc. Best bet are: V3/4 STi (EJ20K) engines or BG5B/BG5C Manual GTB (EJ20R) engines single-converted (essentially same as STi engine just different pistons)

WTF If you wanna go and take a ride wit me We three-wheelin in the fo' with the gold D's

Half a million things with that much information you might want to take it to someone who knows these cars.

Eh? EFI engines do not run fixed timing. In short, you're going to need an aftermarket ECU to run this. But if you want any real power get the heads sorted so that they're not going to have to pull a tonne of timing to stop it misbehaving.

Yes, AKA retarded timing. Because of the sharp edges one must run quite retarded timing to prevent the combustion chamber heating up and then the hotspots causing pre-ignition. It's not good.

The problem has nothing to do with the ports and everything to do with the edges of the combustion chamber. They form sharp edges which can cause hotspots. Hotspots cause pre-ignition. 'Hybrid' motors of this type typically run quite low timing because of this. The edges can be smoothed out by an enginebuilder to allay this issue.

The factory turbo for the 2.5 STi is the VF39, if that is of any use.

Nope. Early legacy (RS-RA) ones had been hand ported and polished, but nothing special since V2.