Flash

You guys might like this link. Its not Subaru but its a twin turbo kit for your dirty peasant Lambo. http://heffnersperformance.com/murcielago_tt_pictures.htm

Sweet, Can't remember if it was dash 10 or 12 but just use the weld on that fits on the size hose that can slide on the reservoir. Also forgot you just need to run the return from the cooler pipe to the reservoir. That's mint because its the same size.

Yea my VF22 had red/orange coloured silicon. You need to replace the silicon to stop air leaks, make sure its high temp.

Here's the link to Ken Blocks new car beening built at crawford performance. You can see in the vid that it's got a semi closed deck.

I am doing this at the moment. Because I have flipped my V4 manifold my power steer reservoir hit on my idle control valve. I am still running an idle control because my car has a VF22, large airflow meter,yellow injectors & a factory ECU that can run up to 20psi (weird JDM SPEC) so at the moment I am just going to run this set up as well as all my other bolt on bits & spend my money on a cage & semi slicks etc. I have had a look on the net at different engine bay pic's & there is a few cars already done like this. You can tell what pump it is by looking at it. All I have done is unbolt the reservoir from the pump and make a new bolt on flange that has a weld on dash 12 fitting on it. Then i got a reservoir of a later model wrx made a mount & ran some braided hose to it. My car is not running yet but looks sweet. It gives you heaps more space & looks alot more cleaner. (also adds another 1000hp at the LR wheel) PS. The late model pump outlet fitting does not fit, I have already tried.

The PCV valve has a ball in it so under boost the air in the manifold can not bleed out. when not on boost there will be a vaccum in the manifold so the ball will move this unblocks the valve allowing air to pass. On a STD car this sucks positve pressure from the crankcase (under manifold vaccum) on your car it will just suck unfiltered air into your engine any time your not on boost.

My old RA run like sh#t because the earths had to much resistance. you need to run new earths & there are 4 from the ECU to a bolt on the inlet manifold. To me it sounds like an air leak. Check all the small hoses mainly the small one that dumps back in the intake pipe. Does it have an after market blow up valve because this is a gaint airleak that causes problems for the ECU.

If you have an airflow meter then its an airleak. So just use a 1/4 BSP plug to block it up. If you have an after market ECU then it will run ok but its unfiltered air so you still need to block it up.

Sweet do you have the certifier's name & number.

My car was in the same state when I flipped the manifold. I am lazy & could not be bothered removing the engine so i covered all the inlet ports with race tape & just used a whole can of brakecleaner then used my air gun to blow off all the sh#t. Worked sweet & took all of 5mins. NOTE the pic on the left is out of date.

Hi guys yea i have a V4 with drivers & passengers airbags was looking at doing this but after speaking to Mark Stokes (he does the certing etc) said that unless its got a cage then you can not cut or remove anything- so looks like i will be getting a cage then. Not sure about early cars but might be worth giving him a ring first if you dont want WOF issues. 0274-522-276

DV8ER I would be checking your complete fuel system, pump, filter, injectors & reg, and to check your pump you need to do a fuel flow check with the fuel reg pumped up to 14psi. Why because its easy to do even with the engine out but also to eliminate them as the fault. Note; the Factory pumps get very tired but might not die straight away. It could also be caused by sh#t fuel from a gas station that has contaminated tanks. The 95 from some stations has been tested at around only 91 octane. So unless you have checked all this stuff the you can not eliminate the fueling. Sorry to get off the topic but i am also looking at doing this engine conversion so am very interested in this topic.

Yea spit on it first works every time!

Hi there i had an 93 RA WRX back in 1998.I did a bit to at as i was working at Ralliart at the time (yea i know Evo workshop). I got the RA very cheap & it was the only one around at the time. (white with polished GTB wheels & very low). Any way. Yea the 5th injector does not work & like has already been seen is only there for Homologation. The manifolds are the same. And I cannot remember if the ECU's are different or not but its the very low gearbox gearing that made them so fast. They had the lowest ratio out of all the 5-speeds boxs. the ECU's will be bugger all different. What i did was try about 30 different computer chips in it. Because of the low gearing most of the chips would cause pinking, engine detination etc. Basically if you chip any early ECU with the same chip then they will be the same. it all depends on what has been writen in the chip. etc RPM cut,timing,boost,spd cut,antilag The chip I ended up using was out of a factory backed Group N rally car that kicked all the other group n wrx's back in one of the international rally's. This chip was then copied again by Gizmo a few years later for a favour & yea had semi antilag. massive flames & backfires on overrun. But beware that you will need to run 98 octane all the time or an avgas mix like i did. I hope this helped a bit. Regards-(Peasant Racing)

Castrol SRF is the best fluid to use but it's over $100 for a can. Every race car I have ever worked on has used this. All the EVO Group A & N rally cars Porsche Gt-3's in Targa ie Jim Richards car 1st in I think 2005 Antons RX-7, P.J. Metro, & RS2000 Targa cars The Turbo Porsches that where in the GT racing series, Don Kays 1000bhp & Lighting Direct cars. We also run it in our Midget speedway car (Michael Pickens) 54. Its the best fluid but it is very expensive for my Peasant racing I use the cans of Porsche Standard fliud that was left over from our Services. Its not as good as SRF but its good enough for Porsche & Lambo to use & those cars can cruze at 300kmh down Autobarns & there fluid gets changed every 2-years. When we ran GT-3's in the targa we never touched the brakes all event.

Yea sorry I dont know what type yours will be. Someone else would be able to give the correct info there. knocking noise = piston slap Metal clicking noise = lifters

Lifters will get quiter as the engine oil warms up too. But yes those legacy get piston knock & sometimes realy bad but the sound is very differnt. You need to get someone who can tell the diference to have a listern to it. If its Piston knock. I would sell it!

When I worked at Ralliart Proma was used on over 50% of the services for early VR-4, Evo 1-3, & even the early legacy turbos. Every one know how noice Mitzi tappets can get. Proma has alot of good additives in it it just looks like sh#t Dont use synthetic thin oil every its point less. (thin oil = even noiser lifters) Use semi synthetic thicker oil but change it at 5,000km & let your turbo idle to cool down. eg 20w-40, 25w-40, 25-50 When I was there we used to follow the instructions on the bottle mixing what ever the amount is for a 4-cylinder with the last litre of engine oil. Now I believe they just use the whole bottle for one car Because there customers are too tight to change the lifters & the Proma is not bad for the engine. On my old GSR I used half a bottle on each oil change & this fixed the noise sweet. Also the best oil filter to use for cheep is a Fram from Super Cheep The Subaru model is a PH3593A We used these as well on every thing before there was a super cheep because the Fram company was across the road. They were used on evry Evo 1-7 STD, Group N & A rally cars etc with no worries

Hi guys, I thought i would put my two cents in. I have seen alot of race & rally car engines manily 4G63's with aftermarket crank pulleys. We ran them for years & years with no problems. This was when I was working at Ralliart. Back then you could not buy any so there were always made to suit & always balanced with the other engine compontents. When I went & worked at Porsche we had a 1000hp at the wheels 911 Race car blow up because the pulley was not made correctly. I have been looking at geeting some GFB pulleys for my WRX & I believe they are made well enough but I cant justify spending that much money for such little gain maybe if I was rich & not a pesant. & they do look mint. Also what you gain in Housepower you loose in torgue. I see on the website they do not even make a set for the RB26 probably because they have had problems with engine failures. So I would say you guys all have vailed points.

Hi guys, I am in the middle of doing a manifold Flip on a V4 (dont need A/C any more as i have a company car). The question is i am just tring to think up the best way to make a adjustable belt tensioner for the P/S, ALT belt. I have flipped the Alternator on its mount & yea thought i would ask everyone who has done this before for ther design ideas as i am not re inventing the wheel & what to make something that works & does not look like S#*t.

Sounds like it might be the heater control unit. (the part with the controls on it) Try a freinds unit for a quick test If this does not work then check to make sure all the linkages & flaps open coreectly you might need to remove glovebox etc & if this does not work wear a snow jacket!

It wont be coil packs on his 97 wrx because it will have the single coil pack mounted on the manifold. V3-V4 (Yee I used to own a 93 WRX RA many moons ago & I had to replace many sets of coil packs & plugs due to sh!t fuel from roadtrips-so I feel your pain there)

Just because it says 95 octane on the gas station fuel pump does not mean its 95 octane. Some gas stations fuel can sit around for ages. I have seen tests of fuel where 95 might be only 93 or 91 octane. This will cause the ecu to cut the boost down-try using octane booster if you cant get 98 (I NEVER USE 95 OCTANE) because even 98 has been tested as low as 95. If octane booster does not fix it then its not the fuel. -If its an import it was designed to run on 100 octane. -Or your boost solenoid might be dead and stuck open then it will only run about 0.5bar-7-8 pounds? but I dont think they give much trouble?? -also might what to check your fuel filter. Euro cars get a new fuel filter ever 40,000km. Most people never change there fuel filter or if they do at 100,000km

Sounds like sh#t fuel. Maybe tiered fuel pump Blocked fuel filter I would also check plug gaps.

From memory (10 years ago) The ignition relay supplys power to the ignition system and fuel pump, this was an orange relay mounted high up under the dash on the drivers side- this used to give problems. you can bridge it out & then try starting the car. it might be mounted under your bonnet on your car any way wont take long to find. -Relays get old and burn out & on older cars pre-canbus there will be no fault codes. -but first you need to check battery voltage-no volts nothing will go -are the terminals tight? -Alternators can die & then this will kill your battery. -Always check fuses as well because it might be that simple. -If you say no spark & fuel no fault codes. That meens it has to be a fault common to both. You always need to keep it simple & check you powers & earths first. Also make sure all the plug connections are correctly fitted.