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I believe that would bring up a fault code & he's got no fault codes. Correct me if I am wrong.

Check battery volts & if it cranks check for charging. Sounds like it might be a Ignition Relay? or even a bad earth? Do the ign lights come on? Does it crank? Have you removed the fuel line & checked for any fuel flow? You can bridge it out to check. -start with checking for fuel & spark. If you have done that & you think its the spark. -start at battery,ecu fuse, ign fuse, ecu power & earth, relay power & earth, ignition mod etc work your way though each item. Alarms can be a pain especially on new cars with canbus systems! but normally they are just budget installs on the ign & start or may be fuel pump. If the ign lights go & it cranks then it most likly wont be that depands how its been installed. Thats why you need to check each item! I hope that may help good luck!

Have you plumbed the gauge into the return line instead of the feed side?

Good on you for doing a bit of good research. This is a good piece of imfomation for any one that has over boost problems or just wants to turn up the boost correctly with out using a cheap bleed valve because as you can see the factory system is not to bad up to a point. -My old v4 import rans a 3 port solenoid & a pill. The pill works the same put the solenoid works as the Tee piece & valve in one. = the same out come. I have had to ditch my pill & factory stuff & am now running a EBC. But like i said it works good up until a point. -The prodrive unit they talk about my either have no pill because? -The solenoid has a set amount of flow restriction. -The ECU controls the solenoid so it might just hold it closed or open for longer the same as an aftermarket ECU or boost controler can?

At Ralliart we used to run Aultronic engine ECU's and they would retard the timing on 2 cylinders so the fuel air mixture would ignite in the exhaust manifold. Group-A cars ran no brake booster and tilton pedal box & switchable antilag Group-N cars ran standard brake booster and standard pedalbox-they were not allowed external switches for antilag so would switch on at 2500 RPM. -None of the brakes would work on the street because the brake compounds would take so long to get hot. (Very dodgy) Once up to temp it was not to bad with no booster-its like driving an old school car-

If it was stock standard- And was running that much then it had a problem that even removeing the pill wont fix, Did it have a big exhaust & STD front pipe off the turbo? Normaly In Japan they fit a big exhaust & leave the front pipe off the turbo as STD because it still has the cat. But this pipe is fitted from factory to detune a wrx it is no good & has zero wastegate flow so this will always cause an over boost from the low STD boost.

The pill is there from the factory to get the correct boost. I have repilled alot of Evo & WRX's when I worked at Ralliart NZ. Stage 1 -chip,exhaust, Plugs,-check fuel flow,flow check injectors, fuel pump, boost test -they would always run 18lb-20lb so we would drill out the pill until they ran 1bar/14.77psi My old mans Cosworth boost control works the same-they have 2 pills one for boost level & boost spike as well as having an ajustable wastegate rod to. At Porsche we would do the same sort of thing when we fitted after market exhaust, horsepower up grade kits etc etc, Have you tried removing your pill before? Think about it its a restriction so it works as a air flow/speed controller or a delay. -the air takes longer to get though a small hole then a larger one so there is less air/boost for the boost solenoid to supply to the wastgate actuator. Do you understand about the deference between pressure & flow, Its a basic Pneumatic princible.

You could try removing the pill! -the bigger the hole the more air the boost solenoid has to use so it can controller the boost. -the smaller the hole this is like a flow restriction so the higher the boost -but there is a point where the factory system even with out the pill just can not control the boost so you need to fit a EBC or a budget bleed that vents back into the intake system. Mine was after exhaust, VF22, & Headers RA's with low ratio gear boxes rev alot quicker so with after market exhaust mods make it even more harder for the standard boost control system to control boost. -I went straight for a EBC they work mint every time.

I used a hoseclamp on mine -tighten clamp untill it holds in place -drop turbo on -tighten clamp up from under side with a long screwdriver Compared to Porsche's theres heaps of space.

Sorry You are correct about STD RTV silicon when IMMERSED in fuel it will break down. You can buy RTV that is fuel safe- It is used on modern diesel engines & in the Aerospace industry ACC-SILICONES AS1810 (ESP411) In this case the gaskets can get very old & even bolted down evenly –you can get A very bad fuel smell which can be very dangerous if people are smoking in or Around your car, On the fuel tanks there is a little lip so nothing can fall in & we used to use a very very tiny bead around the outer edge of the bolts & this will stop the fuel vapour escaping. Up to you if you don’t mind the fuel smell? ;D

WRX GC8 Sedans you don't need to remove the rear seat & also its a good I deal to make sure the fuel level is not to high & becareful not to bend the fuel level float arm. I used to also put a little bit of silicon sealer on the gasket too because some cars would have a bad fuel smell even weeks later. Very good Post with good pics ;D

koom is correct the water coolant helps with the cooling of the core when the engine is shut off. Some late model Audis also run litte pumps to circulate water after the engine is switched off. All the air cooled 911 Porsche turbos (up to 993) run turbo cores with no water gallerys at all. But Porsches do run 10L of oil Also on the old group A rally cars (At Ralliart) we used to discount the water lines because with anti lag the turbo & exhaust manifold would run super hot & this would cause over heating of the coolant. But the rally cars got oil changes before every event & the turbos got pulled off & serviced alot. I would not remove the water lines because they will help your turbo stay alive for alot longer.

Run one or the other if you dont want MAJOR turbo lag!! Why not just run water injection or water/methanol injection. Thats whats next on my wish list!

if you own a v4 your pump is 10 years old. I own a V4 & my pump died 2 years ago. The worst thing is it got more & more tired lucky i was running std boost at the time. I replaced mine with a Walbro universal intank pump- it takes about 30mins to do.

Hi Guys I was the one who added the quote on the other page about checking your fuel delivery & fuel pressure.(last login was a touch offencive) From my experiance every car is different, v1-v9,sti - non sti, mods, Km travelled, Different model rods, pistons-fuel octane rating etc etc. Some cars will last at high boost for years some might only last a few days. I was always taught before you raise the boost in any car always check that you have enough fuel first. My advise is if in dought check your fuel delivery. under 1 bar 14psi would be safe on a STD NON-STI as long as your ageing fuel system is maintained. ;D Make sure you run 95 octane at least or your asking for trouble & if you have to fuel up in a dodgy little hick town garage dont even run 10psi because the fuel can sit around for along time & it loses its octane rating or gets contaminated with water & s##t.