GC8E2DD

That sucks. Not a tiki tour breakage?

Or if you can't be bothered going further than your mailbox, $26.50 https://www.trademe.co.nz/1805037582

Sounds a bit like it's just the switch?

Put a new header tank in. Also replaced knock sensor. Thanks again Partsouq.

Oh really? I'd have thought axial play was worse than thrust.

The rear plastic C links are terrible for deforming and cracking. I have even seen one snap clean in half on a friends GF8. I would definitely go for an alloy replacement a la Whiteline or other.

The dog bone style may not even fit alloy LCAs. I got the Whiteline ones (identical car) but in hindsight I should have gotten adjustable BNT ones which are identical and cost a fraction of the price; spend the rest on oil, brake fluid, pads.

You'd be best to go talk to someone from your local car club who regularly races a Subaru at tracks. Or someone like Al MacLennan in Wellington who has looked after lots of people's Subaru race cars. Anyone considering a hub swap, here is some sweet non-cert suspension: https://www.trademe.co.nz/1675536862

I have a VF36, but I haven't put the Link in and tuned it yet. I can't use WOT at the moment because it immediately hits boost cut. I can say that it seems to build boost faster than the old VF24.

Combo of heat and loading I think. Our cars lean a lot of weight on the outside front wheel.

All bearings FO if caned, but yeah, the bigger ones last longer by all accounts. I think Caspros got his front hubs machined at Macbilt to accept bigger bearings.

Wait, what. Old race car?

What are those eyes on the left for?

Bilstein'ed the coupe.

If the actual controller is bung (and not just some shorted wiring or something), then get one of these to replace it: http://mapdccd.com/

You can use http://jp-carparts.com/subaru/carlist.php?maker=subaru to compare part numbers. Essential pre pickapart trip reference. Always check the price and availability on partsouq.com for new parts. Some new parts aren't actually that expensive. It's just that our local dealers have the screws turned up too tight.

Yep, pretty much asked for 2° neg camber up front, minimal front toe out, minimal rear toe in. Quite happy with 1° camber in the rear. Not sure why my caster is wonky; subframe may not be sitting straight.

Swapped out all four struts in the weekend. Got an alignment today.

You know the welding is irrelevant, right?

Twin scroll is a driveability decision; top mount is a packaging and sufficiency one; for the factory anyway. Average new car buyer would probably notice an improvement in the former while the latter, not so much.

Wash your mouth out!

Have a drip tray to catch coolant. Have coolant.

Yeah, become acquainted with Partsouq. Get consumables and other kiff bundled with parts orders to cut down on shipping. We'll have to pay GST on lower value orders soon, so get shopping.

I would imagine it started life with 5w30.