Scoobydoo

What is it... is it heavy? Safe to go on a plane? I will be flying up to Auckland end of the month, so could get it to Wellington, if that helps?

Lol yup you can actually see the grass on the otherside of the kerb under the car. Under yours you can hardly see the kerb My car tonight got new spark plugs, and new Whiteline FSB and links. Mucho nicey

Yes it's all you can eat ribs. I will be there, however I will be late. I'll aim for 8pm, but it could be later.

Ask for all the boxes / wrappings that the parts come in. At least then you can be sure that OEM parts were used. I'd also question the rocker covers, as that is a job on it's own. And since you didn't ask for that to be done.. why would they do it? Also, was it a Subaru-specific mechanic or a run of the mill one? If it was someone like Armstrong or a Subaru dealership, then I could believe those prices..

Julian is excellent.. have had my last two cars done by him and will go to him for all future installs. He's very professional, explains everything and gives you options, dependant on what you want. He will also pick you up / drops you off after you leave your car with him. A previous thread - http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?44884-Need-Alarm-Immobilizer-GPS-install-in-Wellington&highlight=obsessive

Definitely sounds like HG issues, but to be totally certain, take it somewhere to get it tested.. either teekay or leak-down tests (same thing known by different names)

Yeah this is what I would've thought too. BG / V3/4 radiator has the top hose on the drivers side of the radiator, BH / V5/6 radiator has the top hose in the centre. Totally different.

Strong for Subaru are a popular choice for finding replacement OEM parts http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/collections/struts-and-hubs

FYI - I have a broker who I deal with for all my insurances... PM me if you want his details. It ends up going through Mike Pero, who I believe is underwritten by Vero.

Never heard of Tora before.. I think that says something in itself

Jason is going to host drinks / nibbles / dinner at his house for Birthday / leaving drinks, before he leaves our shores and goes to Auckland. Event details are here, I hope it's not too short notice but it's this Saturday.. https://www.facebook.com/events/820996738015844/ So if you know Jase, then you should definitely come along!

Well I've already give you some advice, but since I'm on my laptop, I'll expand on what I look for. As you know I'm very much into my audio, and my requirements basically put me into the high end units straight away: * I'm a Pioneer Fanboy, that's all I've ever known so that's what I stick to; * 3 Pre-outs, so I can control the level of the sub seperately to the level of front and/or rear speakers, and able to connect to 2 or more amps, which is a priority for me; * Rear USB, so wires can be hidden out of the way, makes for a tidier install when you can run the USB into the glovebox, using a USB stick as the source unit; * Bluetooth for Phone -> Headunit comms As you know, I went bling and got the AVH-X5650BT, but it was for the same price as you've been quoted for the 2750BT. I can only put this down to it being last season's model, as opposed to this years model. This years model AVH-X5750BT is the updated model from mine, so you can look at those specs to compare. $800 for the 2750BT is way too much, when you could get the 5650BT for the same price, which would make it a lot easier to justify. However, this does depend on stores still having them in stock, otherwise you'll be having to source it either from Trademe or Parallel Importers http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/dvd-video/auction-942579432.htm - Second hand though, and 2 years old http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/dvd-video/auction-942328982.htm - Single DIN unit, last years high-end model, Flip out screen though which I'm not personally a fan of http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4806 - Same as mine - $900 http://www.esquare.co.nz/pioneer-avh-x5650bt.html - Same again If you want me to, I can ask Krishna for the same deal he gave me.. but that depends on whether you want to spend $800 lol. But you know you'll be getting the best unit for the $$. On the other hand, going back to the point made by Guitar_Guy, if you get a cheaper Single-Din unit, you may have extra $ you can put towards better speakers, which is also important. A source unit is only as good as the speakers you are running your music through. If you have a high end unit, you'd better be running good quality speakers, otherwise I'd shoot you hahaha. Any of these would be my pick for a Single-Din http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/cd-players/pioneer/auction-940269835.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/cd-players/pioneer/auction-940473358.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/cd-players/pioneer/auction-942205965.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/dvd-video/auction-939824766.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/cd-players/pioneer/auction-939824754.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/cd-players/pioneer/auction-942714313.htm If you can go into a store (say Streetsounds) and check out any of these units in the flesh, then that should be a deciding factor. if you can get any of them for a decent enough price, then buy from a store. Better after-sale support, they'll install it for you, and you'll just feel better knowing you supported the local industry rather than a parallel importer. There you go... my 2c worth, expanded.. lol

Pharnos, did you do the Nexus 7 tablet install into your car? Is this documented anywhere?

The VLT % is what is allowed through, it stands for Visible Light Transmission. so 5% only allows 5% light through, so it's very dark, and 35% is a lot lighter, and 90% would be virtually clear. But even factory glass tends to have a small amount of VLT% built into it to allow for sun strike, which is why it needs to be taken into account when adding tint overlays to it, as you've now discovered. That tint probably is 35% exactly, so they're not wrong in selling it to you, but added to a 10% factory blend in the glass, now gives you your ~25%

Yeah that red set won't work for BE/BH... the coolant hoses are wrong. The radiator has a central top hose, not a right-hand side one like the BD/BG. The Blue one will be fine though. You can see that they are actually very different sets.

Yeah the looms will be the same, it's just the parts used that the loom plugs into are different (afm, injectors, ecu etc)

Ambitious but rubbish.. just like Top Gear haha

Mods, can you move this to wanted parts? He did it off his phone, couldn't tell what section of was in, lol

Bookmarked

I plan to find out what my Factory KW is at Flat Nats

Yep mine is for sale.. complete in it's own specially made box. They retail for $399: http://abtec.co.nz/DD_SW6_5 I would like $250 for mine, which is $200 for the sub, and $50 for the box. Dimensions for the box is 365mm x 235mm x 275mm. And I'm in Wellington, FYI.

They wouldn't fit the factory spacer? I'm guessing the weather shield didn't fit over the magnet? You could've just cut the shield part off and still used the spacer?

Hi viz yellow

Headunits and most modern amps are designed to run 4ohm speakers. You can run 8ohms but they will only be getting half the rated power. The reason the factory ones are 8ohms, is that they will be running in parallel with the tweeter which would be also 8ohm, so it gives the amp a 4ohm load. This is assuming it is running off the factory Macintosh amp, and not an aftermarket one. The Macintosh amps are normally found under the drivers seat. However, if it is an aftermarket headunit, then you should first be checking to see if the macintosh amp is even connected. If not, then you should be using 4ohm speakers.

Personally, I'd definitely go with the Vifa ones. I'm sure you would be able to flick the others off to recoup the costs, but probably not straight away, if you don't mind waiting until the buyers come along. Otherwise re-advertise them on Trademe again..