reaperblitz

Normally under dash, by kick panel under bonnet release. 3 plug relay from memory (black little box)

Ask someone that actually has it in their line of work like automotive repairs or mechanics or trial and tested experienced people. I wouldn\'t put much faith in a sales person that (if anything) would have the most basic info on the matter. Otherwise they\'d be in a way better job getting better pay.... No offense to anyone

Iv done it in two cars but in saying that these belts were preeeeeeetty good. No frays no cracks no heat marks. But reusing a tensioner on a new belt on an Altezza is an effin no no

* this doesn\'t include anything about quality of oil and at which point oils cannot maintain consistency and separate / act as a jelly being cut with a knife under forces Etc.

Go to your kitchen. Grab some vege oil. Pour some on the pan. Then feel it between your fingers. Now heat the pan up and watch what happens to the oil once it gets to temp. Now rotate the oil around the pan and notice the speed at which it flows around the pan. Now think of the cold oil in the pan as 10w. Then as you heat it up it becomes a 30. Now at the point the oil burns and disappears is its point of the scale I.e becomes unstable and stops doing its job (30 acts as a 30) while a higher number will retain lubrication at a higher point. The first number in the *10w/ xx is its starting lubrication. The last part 10w/*30 is its thickness/ thinness at operating temp. It still is a *10w but can stretch its qualities to a *30 "thinness". Now this is where people get confused and assume / understand how it all works and what\'s better and what isn\'t. Oil used by manufacturer is purely an indication of what you can use. You have to remember if its a Jap car- the oil they suggest is oil for their climate and temperature. Flame on. Am willing to accept being shot down.

Get IP address, give him police address for pick up lol

Sorry. iPhone typing. Hadn\'t completed the message before it sent. *front o2 is just off the block by drivers strut. *my bad I won\'t try type and operate machinery

It\'s like a gameboy chip. Should retain your save game. If you\'re really worried, ask your tuner

Not all sensors tell you they have a fault with them, some just lie and pretend to work. What\'s your tune held on? Ebc? Ecu? Link? It shouldn\'t just reset to no memory on a no power situation

2.5 rs is non turbo? On a dumb question note- Iv seen in some engine bays, instead of routing the charge pipe from turbo to intercooler, why don\'t you rotate the housing to lessen the length of piping?

I was hoping someone would put a pic of a seal blowing in a turbo. Or like another animal that does. But that\'s the funny bit. Seals really don\'t blow in turbos

Front o2 is on the block

Someone- this is a photoshop opportunity

I thought that was the rear one......and from memory, evening testing that sensor or volts/ continuity could fry them if done incorrectly

There\'s also a difference in black soot. It\'s like carbon build up in the exhaust.

Do a fs feedback- like or dislike or positive neutral and angry face just like trade face

Worked on it. Just like Tuesday and Monday. Can\'t freaking wait to get it all sorted. Gotta do a full flush.

Lol dodgy! No we don\'t need anymore dodgy Subarus out there. It gives us guys a bad name and also screws with some good guys out there that spend their hard earned money. I\'d love a new original car but who\'s to say you\'re not inheriting someone else\'s problems Good they will sort the clutch out. Sucks about the o2 sensor but least its isolated to two things

Crap man that\'s not good. Least it\'s finally picked up on the fault. Hope they can rectify it. All the best

Pulled the tmic off, a bunch numbers on the block by the gearbox. I think S20c xxx is what we will have to go by. So the engine is a wrx sti v7 block. Hmmmm Thanks

Can you tell what the bottom end is from the engine number on the front top of a block, under the intake manifold by the cam cover on the drivers side? The following is the number S20C xxx? Am trying to find details on a friends block I\'m about to Frankenstein. Will pull inter cooler and all the other stuff off tonight to get to the back of the engine for the proper block numbers (if its there) Also heads/cam cover wise, the cross hatching depict which engine heads? And by looking at the inner of the heads themselves can you determine what cams they are running I.e version?

By grub screw mod, you\'re meaning to stop the bov from bypassing the increased boost? Clutches can go bad anytime depending on how it\'s been \'bedded\' in, installed to what type it is. I wouldn\'t assume the 2000k would have been nice nana driving You mentioned burning clutch smell? Guessing you\'re launching it and aggressively shifting too? (I don\'t know if you\'ve got a heavy duty or brass button etc) but burning clutch smell isn\'t normally good either. See if you can take it back to them and just trace back to what\'s been changed since, or what you think the problems could be and sort it one by one. Hopefully it gets fixed soon (crosses fingers)

Ya ^ do a tech write up please Iv got to get mine done too sadly

It could be but why wouldn\'t it happen in other gears where there would be load as well?

I was thinking it could be a split in your intercooler/charge pipe? It reminded me of what my mates car did when there was a tiny split and then it went all crazy tractor like after that so we straight away knew what it was