Lifter adjustment

[Ryan]

Just put my new engine in, with V4 heads and cams, they were reground to a new 276 profile at Franklin Cams, but I havn't reshimmed the lifters when I put the cams in *idiot*. Obviously now its making the lifter ticking noise from the heads so I have to reshim it, how do I go about this? Do I just buy new shims or ??

[Guest]

ive just rebuilt my version 4 and have that same tick from the head, any info would be appreciated

[Koom]

Why did you not get a valve grind done while the heads were out? Easy power available there especially to make use of the bigger cams and also much easier to re-shim with the heads sitting on the bench, and not in the car. I've only ever re-shimmed via shortening the valve stems using an old school valve grinder and also mixing and matching the shims that I had available out of spare heads. Not sure how easy it is to just buy the appropriate shims? Also how do you know if some of the valves actually have no clearance and are being held slightly open all the time?

[Ryan]

All the valves were lapped instead of having them ground. As I understand it I need bigger shims, as theres to much clearance between the base circle of the cam and the lifter, correct? Not the other way around as you've done (via shortening valve stem).

Does anyone know the specs for the clearance in a version 4 solid lifter? If I have to I'll make up my own shims at work, but I need to know specs first to decide what size shims I need

[Koom]

Did you actually check the clearances before fitting the heads though? Or just assuming that because one or two are now noisy that they will all be loose?

Some spec's I found in one of the service manuals.

Valve clearance

Intake mm (in) 0.20±0.02 (0.0079±0.0008)

Exhaust mm (in) 0.25±0.02 (0.0098±0.0008)

[log1call]

Simple job if you are methodical.

You get a bit of paper and note down what each valve clearance is at the moment. Then you pull all the shims out and record what thickness they are at each valve and write that down under the first row of figures. Now, using the old clearance and the shim thickness you can calculate how much thicker or thinner each shim needs to be for each position. Now you should have a number written down at each valves position saying what thickness it needs to be... except that there is a range or clearances you can have, so you should actually have two figures for each position which will be acceptable, the thickest allowable and the thinnest. Now run through all the shims measuring them and figuring which combination will fit within the allowable range and use the most shims(this cut's down on the number you will have to buy. Once you know what thickness shims you need to buy, go see an engine reconditioner and ask if they will swap your used shims for some of the ones they have sitting on their shelf.

[Guest boostin]

New ones are drug money too. If any are too tight just get the tip of the valve stem shaved.

[Ryan]

 log1call said:

Simple job if you are methodical.

You get a bit of paper and note down what each valve clearance is at the moment. Then you pull all the shims out and record what thickness they are at each valve and write that down under the first row of figures. Now, using the old clearance and the shim thickness you can calculate how much thicker or thinner each shim needs to be for each position. Now you should have a number written down at each valves position saying what thickness it needs to be... except that there is a range or clearances you can have, so you should actually have two figures for each position which will be acceptable, the thickest allowable and the thinnest. Now run through all the shims measuring them and figuring which combination will fit within the allowable range and use the most shims(this cut's down on the number you will have to buy. Once you know what thickness shims you need to buy, go see an engine reconditioner and ask if they will swap your used shims for some of the ones they have sitting on their shelf.

Thanks I thought this may be how its done, will go and pull rocker covers off and measure now. They're noisy as hell on both heads so think the whole lot need doing, I'll measure them all anyway. If they're too tight do they still make the same loud tapping noise?

[Guest boostin]

No. If they're too tight it's normally quiet as but probably also runs a bit rough.

[Guest boostcut]

 boostin said:

No. If they're too tight it's normally quiet as but probably also runs a bit rough.

and dont drive it unless you want a burnt valve.. i bet they arnt too tight tho, as they remove material from the cam, thus making a clearance bigger.

[Ryan]

Just confirming, the specs above (.2mm/.25mm) is the clearance between base circle and lifter right? Theres 0.9mm clearance on mine! Damn.

 boostcut said:

and dont drive it unless you want a burnt valve.. i bet they arnt too tight tho, as they remove material from the cam, thus making a clearance bigger.

Yep, they must have taken a fair bit off lol, 0.9mm clearance on one head, probably the same on the other.

[Guest boostcut]

well thats how they get more lift out of a standard cam.... they take it off the back and shim it up so the lobe lifts higher

[Ryan]

So I must be measuring it right. So from what I can tell so far, I'm going to need shims that are at least .7mm bigger, right? Is that unusual after a cam grind?

[Guest boostcut]

no, but as stated above, you should have ground your valves, then the clearances possibly could have been taken up by the valves. if too tight then you take off the stem.

[Ryan]

Yep I should have, but when I recon'd the heads I was planning on using standard cams, then at last minute decided to go for a cam grind. Oh well, I know for next time. Now, to go measure all these clearances..!

[ReubenH]

when we did chrisjunkies, some had massive gaps, some were in solid contact with the cam lobes. We mixed and matched them untill it was all even as possible.

We started out looking like we needed to get some new shims like you're thinking at the moment, but after a mix'n' match, we only needed a couple shaved down, and all was good.

Just find one with too little clearance, and find one with too much, and swap. Keep f*cking around till you get desired results.

[Ryan]

I cant, I need shims that range between 3.2mm and 3.5mm, and the current ones are around 2.2mm to 2.6mm, bugger Have rang PBMS and Speedsource and both don't know anyone with shims so I'm going to have to make some.

[Guest boostcut]

you can buy them from subaru.

[Ryan]

But 3.5mm thick? I heard that the max thickness they go is 2.7mm but I could be wrong.

[Guest boostcut]

2.7mm + 0.8mm = 3.5mm. you are allowed to use 2 shims.

[Guest boostin]

Are they shim over or shim under bucket?

[Ryan]

 boostcut']

2.7mm + 0.8mm = 3.5mm. you are allowed to use 2 shims.

Really?? Will they still stay inside the spring retainer? Great news if I can combine two together.

[quote name='boostin said:

Are they shim over or shim under bucket?

Shim under bucket, version 4 STi.

[Guest boostcut]

yes, they will. obviously put the smaller one in first so it doesnt kick out.

[Ryan]

Awesome, saves alot of hassle, just gotta find another set of shims and I'll grind them down at work. Do you have any boostcut, or know of any one with another 16?

[Guest boostcut]

 Ryan said:

Awesome, saves alot of hassle, just gotta find another set of shims and I'll grind them down at work. Do you have any boostcut, or know of any one with another 16?

pick a part or you could just buy the correct sizes you need from subaru?