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Project-B


suspect

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Hey guys,

I have been trolling these fourms ever since I got my Subaru, posting here and there..

Anyways rather than having my 97' Legacy GTB sitting there i've decided to get stuck into it. Currently running standard intake, turbo's etc. (I was told that it had forged pistons when I purchased) but unsure on how true this was.

After reading and looking at chasis number etc. It appears to be an EJ20R (yellow injectors).

I thought that the clutch had gone as I had replaced the slave cylinder and checked out master. So I decided to take out the engine and do cambelt, etc all at the same time.

Turns out clutch was mint same with cambelt but replacing these anyway whilst it's out.

It may have been leaking oil from rocker covers it's it's everywhere (any tips on cleaning this off it's taking bl**dy ages.)

I've been reading about single turbo conversion, seriously looking into this, trying to find parts for cheap atm.

Some are saying there will be no power increase at all, just removes VoD and makes things easier to work on.

I've already got most things off, intake plenum, exhaust (turbo), turbos etc.

Just after some advise, do I spent the $ and go with single (no power increase)(?) or get a ZS controller to help reduce this?

Obviously I’m going to get mixed responses but just after opinions and evidence as I’ve also read the twin turbo setup is primary responsible for bigends going due to the secondary turbo getting that ‘all of a sudden chant’ unsure how true this is also.

Live in Hawkes Bay so if anyone is keen to take me for a ride in their single turbo legacy I can compaere ;D

Thanks in advance,

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pm reubenH about doing a single turbo on a EJ20R he can tell you first hand what to do and not do with the build

as for singling it, id do it as it makes your car much more fun and the seat factor feels more power even if there isnt any actual power gains

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I singled my GTB but that was because it had no engine and I only had V3 STI parts available. Also I couldn't be bothered figuring out the black box of doom. As for driving it, it feels pretty good as a single, nice to have mid-range torque available. If I bought it with a fully operational TT system, I would have left that in. Only worth swapping if you're having lots of issues with the TT system IMO.

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Thanks for the reply Koom,

Well considering I need to have it in 2nd / 3rd for hills on the Napier taupo road.. with a run up.. where it seems like a vally of death to some people.. mine is more like the grand cayon of death..

I don't know if this is just mine or all GTB's.. but I find it slower than our 93' 2.8L D Turbo Bighorn..

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single turboing it basically turns the performance into a WRX STI..... waay better than the TT. Youd love it!

As for power, yea the 280hp stays the same but how its delivered is soo much more responsive, simply go for a drive in an STI then compare it to your current TT, or go for a ride with some one thats done the conversion already on a leggy.

Plus you already have yellows and an orange AFM. So you just need a few bits like single turbo UP, a Turbo, DP, intercooler with brackets and all the wee bull sh1t parts that are well documented on this forum.

I have a 1s ECU for sale too

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 suspect said:

Thanks for the reply Koom,

Well considering I need to have it in 2nd / 3rd for hills on the Napier taupo road.. with a run up.. where it seems like a vally of death to some people.. mine is more like the grand cayon of death..

I don't know if this is just mine or all GTB's.. but I find it slower than our 93' 2.8L D Turbo Bighorn..

Do you have a boost gauge? Sounds like its just not making any power cause even with the valley of death, you should be able to drive through it then accelerate once the secondary kicks in. My old ford laser could get up those hills in 3rd :P

Does it have any ECU codes showing?

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 suspect said:

Next question, i've decided to go single turbo will a 1999 WRX manifold / turbo (td04) and fuel fail fit or does it HAVE to be a v3/4? Thanks

has to be a v3/4 inlet manifold, fuel rail will have to v3/4 too

any turb will do, as long as you have the right UP & DP

you may wann read this before you ask any more questions ;)

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,74.0.html

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 suspect said:

Yea i've read that :P just making sure as UK KLegacy saying it's fine just the wasted spark setup obviously won't work.

if you get a complete v3/4 manifold with injectors and rails + get the coil pack n leads and you will be set.

That way you can:

- have the second injector rail with a reg for the split fuel rail set up

- use the coil and leads for wasted spark, ditch the coil over (but you dont have to of course)

- will have a spare set of yellows to sell

- can strip the manifold and get it powder coated while you are gathering other bits for the conversion

expect to pay aboyt $250 to $350 for a complete v3/4 manifold, if buying off a wrecker ask/get a deal on all the other bits you need :)

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 suspect said:

Thankas for that gazzy, dont really need a second set of injectors.

 
- use the coil and leads for wasted spark, ditch the coil over (but you dont have to of course)

What's the advantage of this than the coil packs?

couple of things, the coil packs are expensive to replace & renound for crapping out, when using CPs.. getting plugs out is harder (some one will add some thing else)

heres another discussion(s) from here:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,16344.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6561.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,8922.0.html

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 gazzy2000']

[quote name='suspect said:

Thankas for that gazzy, dont really need a second set of injectors.

quote]- use the coil and leads for wasted spark, ditch the coil over (but you dont have to of course)

What's the advantage of this than the coil packs?

couple of things, the coil packs are expensive to replace & renound for crapping out, when using CPs.. getting plugs out is harder (some one will add some thing else)

heres another discussion(s) from here:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,16344.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6561.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,8922.0.html

....

[me=aim]peaks out of bushes[/me]

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 aim']

[quote name='suspect said:

Thankas for that gazzy, dont really need a second set of injectors.

quote]- use the coil and leads for wasted spark, ditch the coil over (but you dont have to of course)

What's the advantage of this than the coil packs?

couple of things, the coil packs are expensive to replace & renound for crapping out, when using CPs.. getting plugs out is harder (some one will add some thing else)

heres another discussion(s) from here:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,16344.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6561.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,8922.0.html

....

[me=aim]peaks out of bushes[/me]

FARKIN BANG..... oh sh1t, i thought you were a deer wearing DC shoes and a subaru jacket

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 gazzy2000']

[quote name='suspect said:

Thankas for that gazzy, dont really need a second set of injectors.

quote]- use the coil and leads for wasted spark, ditch the coil over (but you dont have to of course)

What's the advantage of this than the coil packs?

couple of things, the coil packs are expensive to replace & renound for crapping out, when using CPs.. getting plugs out is harder (some one will add some thing else)

heres another discussion(s) from here:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,16344.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6561.0.html

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,8922.0.html

FYI, IMO, The early coil packs were known to crack and loose spark alot. The GTB ones with internal ignitors are pretty strong and quite reliable though. But if you're running wasted spark off an STI ECU, then I'd say its best to use the external coil and leads.

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