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rawyatt

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^^ real helpful

try cleaning your IACV Idle Air COntrol valve, it cud be all gumed up, once removed use brake cleaner and a toothbrush (or the like)

your car is a 91 leggy yea? u might wanna get a manual for it as you will need to know how to reset ECU afterwards

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well is it not obvious?

tryin to clear the codes will work BUT if there is a physical problem then they will simpley trigger again

ie : fix stuff

ps he knows how to reset the ecu....

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couple of things i would try also are..

- clean up earths on engine and battery terminals, maybe ad a earthing kit (older leggys are renound for degration of their earthing systems)

- do a new fuel filter

- new plugs and leads

- upper engine cleaner

- reset ECU as per factory manual after all the changes

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i already have cleaned out icv. wasnt bad. also got a new afm so this is why im stumped. the car isnt idling bad or running bad. sometimes it does drop revs when i put the clutch in to bout 700rpm then straights away goes to 1.1rpm. also got an earthing kit :)

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 rawyatt said:

i already have cleaned out icv. wasnt bad. also got a new afm so this is why im stumped. the car isnt idling bad or running bad. sometimes it does drop revs when i put the clutch in to bout 700rpm then straights away goes to 1.1rpm. also got an earthing kit :)

ahh yip, have you reset ECU?

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 rawyatt said:

black to black, green to green then turn ignition on and off

to do it properly (on GC & GFs at least) you should..

- with ign off plug in green to green and black to black

- turn key on.. engine off (KOEO)

- put accelerator straight to the floor & hold for 4 seconds

- then let off the accerator back up to half way, hold for four seconds

- now start car and start driving, DO NOT go over 40kph or under 11kph (no boosting)

- the engine check light should be either flashing codes or flashing the all clear code (constant evenly spaced flashes)

- drive for 2 mins under 40kph

- once time is up, pull over, turno car off, unplug green n black plugs go for a drive to let the ECU relearn everything... boost away!

this works for GC WRX's, should be the same or similar for you car

let us know, it may not be the miracle fix you are looking for but you may as well do it right to eleminate ;D

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 Ichi Ban said:

do all codes log at the same time?

after reset are all the codes gone?

it clears stored codes, if the probs exist still, you have to fix/find whats wrong

maybe look at a wiring diagram and see if those sensors all share a comon earth, or a comon shielded earth.. then clean up the earths if they are/do

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Highly unlikely that those 3 will log together, my guess is codes not cleared

 gazzy2000']

[quote name='Ichi Ban said:

do all codes log at the same time?

after reset are all the codes gone?

/quote]

it clears stored codes, if the probs exist still, you have to fix/find whats wrong

maybe look at a wiring diagram and see if those sensors all share a comon earth, or a comon shielded earth.. then clean up the earths if they are/do

nothing has a shielded earth- only signals are sheilded

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 Ichi Ban']

Highly unlikely that those 3 will log together, my guess is codes not cleared

[quote name='Ichi Ban said:

do all codes log at the same time?

after reset are all the codes gone?

/quote]

it clears stored codes, if the probs exist still, you have to fix/find whats wrong

maybe look at a wiring diagram and see if those sensors all share a comon earth, or a comon shielded earth.. then clean up the earths if they are/do

nothing has a shielded earth- only signals are sheilded

the sheilds on the signal wire from/to the sensor go to ground i.e. earthing points. if they are 'bad or degraded' earths, the sensor signal can be/get skewed from interferance

also some signal wire shielding simply go back to the ECU (not an actual earthing point) and the ECU supplys the earth for those sheilds, so if the ECU in general has a bad earth.. so will everything else it supplies an earth to, hense earthing kits and cleaning all/any earthing points incl batt terminals.. maybe even a new earth through to the ECU itself (in really bad cases)

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i will just add for those who dont know, that the shielded wire we are referring to is a method in which the signal wire from/to a engine sensor is 'shielded' from interferance caused by EMI (electromagnetic interferance) EMI is quote " a disturbance that affects an electrical circuit due to either electromagnetic induction or electromagnetic radiation emitted from an external source.[1] The disturbance may interrupt, obstruct, or otherwise degrade or limit the effective performance of the circuit"

So basically any interferance induced externally has a path to direct earth/ground via the shield wire rather than inducing an unwanted signal on the actual signal wire itself.

Therefor if the shield earth(s) is bad or degraded there can indeed be induced unwanted signals corrupting the message sent/interpreted by the ECU from engine sensors.

Prolly getting off track but still sound reasoning to make sure there are good earths.

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+1 on the above

Gazzy2000 - We are talking about the same thing :)

Yes wire shields are earthed and earth cables are not sheilded

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also, if all else fails, on older subarus the loom under the manifold (of which most the critical sensor wires are routed) can rub through causing a short or open circuit (of which can be intermittant) .. especially if the manifold has been off at sometime in its life and someone hasnt fitted the loom in its correct factory position. Or the loom can just wear through due to years of wear n tear.

I have found a couple of 'under manifold' engine looms like that (mainly on GCs and GFs) and had to repair and fit new loom conduit. being that your car is older than GCs it is a possiblity, this means youd have to take of the whole manifold and inspect the wires/conduit/cabling closely.

its all fun and games ay! :D

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