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Rear Crank Oil Seal EJ20H


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Hi guys (again!!)

Cheers for all your help removing the Gear box. Much appreciated :)

Unfortunately it now looks like I got a leaky rear crank oil seal at the back (which may explain why the clutch has started slipping in the first place), so I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to change that??

Also, just out of curiosity, to the right there's a rectangular black plastic case with screws in it, does anyone know whats behind that and whether that can leak oil?

I don't think it's leaking anything as I think some oil from the seal has flicked up onto it, but just to be sure....

Cheers

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getting the new seal in is the hardest bit. If you have got clutch out by urself, its a piece of piss.

Two thoughts on kidney plates - some if us (me) just use the plastic one, degreaser, and a crapload of 3bond. Others buy the metal replacement from subaru to permanantly stop leak

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Guest Rugged_RS
 QUIKGT said:

Yup, and the only way to stop them leaking oil is to not put any in!! ;D

Haha you goon thats the best answer isnt it ::) ... just dont use oil full stop.. nice lol ;D

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The plastic kidney plate as its been called is a deffinite weak point. I have had one leak, and I have also talked to several engine builders who wont replace the plastic plate with anything other than a replacement alloy one during engine overhauls/rebuilds. The rear seal can be a real pain as when fitting the new one it has the tendency to pop out on the opposite side from where you are applying the pressure/tapping etc. I made a basic tool from an alloy plate and an old seal I had from another engine, then using the flywheel bolts and this tool I can gently/ evenly pull the seal into place to avoid damage. Also be careful to not drive it too far in as this is also rumoured to cause leaks. Good luck

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the nice alloy kidney plates are no longer avaiable - Bugger

There is a thin metal one now, which you need to replace all the securing screws/bolts

This thin metal one has been around for about 2 years and I am yet to see one leak

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Thats interesting, well at least it sounds like the steel ones work well too, and they are hopefully a cheap upgrade?. Yeah the alloy ones were superior quality to the plastic ones.

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Pushing the new seal in with the old one sounds like a good idea, I have been pondering about that one, will use a piece of 2 by 4 on the old on the new, should work.

Got the parts ordered from Winger (seem to be the cheapest parts through Trade Me, $380 for the clutch kit alone).

I was a bit worried about covering the Kidney plate with the plate in regards to engine breathing, but Winger said they do it all the time (must recognise there was a problem) and that there was another breather on the top, so all go.

Will measure the distance the existing seal and mark it on there as to make sure the new one doesn't go in to far.

Must say what a mish it is to put in when the cars only on axle stands in the driveway tho ::)

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Yeah you should be fine with that rear crank seal I have done a few now, some go in easier than others :) Just be patient and you will be fine. If all else fails get yourself a scrap piece of 2 or 3mm alloy sheet and drill some holes in it for the flywheel bolts to pass through. I think I cut a hole in the middle with a hole saw to go over the center of the crank. It was not difficult and made an effective tool for inserting the seal.

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