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VF30 help


STiNGR

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 1989RS said:

You need to make sure you use vf30 bango oil feed bolts or else the factory wrx oil flow will not be enough

hmmmm interesting... i used new but same size banjo bolts as on my vf10 :-/ whoopsies :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

definitly not 1.8 mm for a thrust bearing turbo !!!!! 3mm atleast !!

1-1.5mm for a BB turbo

3-4 mm for a journal bearing turbo

dont need to buy a new line or anything

use the proper banjo from a journal bearing turbo or drill the BB one out to 3mm

BTW those up pipes from STA DO NOT FIT AT ALL - i brought one - test fitted it - turbo wasnt in the right spot at all it was too low - intake wouldnt go on - external gate was clashing with the downpipe - couldnt bolt gate on -

why waste your money on that crap?

plus they are oversized up pipes so you actually loose power and response

when i done this i cut that shit STA up pipe up and made my own out of the stock up pipe - was alot of fluffing around including plumbing it back

i would rather get a exhaust housing with a working internal gate and swap it over or depending on what the welds are like if possible grind the welds and use the internal

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I have just pulled my vf30 turbo off after it s&%$ itself after less than 100km. After doing some research on here i am thinking oil-starvation. The turbo was brand new-rebulit unturned!! I checked the banjo bolt and it ewas the same as the one on my td04. I will try get some pics up...the oil is sticky though, not like the 'usual' blown seal mess. It's my first Subby turbo upgrade and i think i've ballsed it up :'(

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 WRXONP said:

Td04 should have the large banjo anyway - did u prime it ? If not it would have been running dry for a bit

Yeah i ran some clean oil through it and gently turned the wheels. Maybe not enough?? The gunk coming out the back was sticky like road tar :o weird! Was smoking like blown seal but not too badly- i thought at first it was a valve guide seal!!

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 WRXONP said:

The best way is to pour oil down it and spin by hand - cranking the motor will still spin it dry

Howso? No fuel pump = No combustion = No exhaust gas. But the oil pump will be turning and will circulate oil through it. Spinning the impeller won't cause oil to be drawn through the turbo.

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 boon']

[quote name='WRXONP said:

The best way is to pour oil down it and spin by hand - cranking the motor will still spin it dry

/quote]

Howso? No fuel pump = No combustion = No exhaust gas. But the oil pump will be turning and will circulate oil through it. Spinning the impeller won't cause oil to be drawn through the turbo.

If the turbo is new and has no oil in it at all, at the point of ignition it will run dry. According to a number of people/sites it only takes seconds of running dry to cause bearing damage and reason for a premature failure. Cranking it will bring up oil pressure, dont think it will spin the turbo though as you say no exhaust gas-could be wrong though :-\

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yeah id say there would be some movement at cranking, hence why I sshould've primed mine more maybe. Can too much oil blow the bearings out? I've heard that oil can get squeezed through from too much oil and using oil restricters in the feed line.

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 QBALLZ said:

yeah id say there would be some movement at cranking, hence why I sshould've primed mine more maybe. Can too much oil blow the bearings out? I've heard that oil can get squeezed through from too much oil and using oil restricters in the feed line.

I don't think you'd blow the bearing out from too much oil... instead you get what's called 'pushing oil' where the bearing seals can't contain the oil and it leaks into the turbo, which results in blue smoke.

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