95 bg5a fuel issue + idle issue

[Paradox]

Hey all, little problem. I have a tt gt legacy wagon. Not long replaced the fuel pump with a new walbro. Since then, every now and then it won\'t go. If I give the plug on top a wiggle or wee bang, then it fires back up, no probems. I have switched the pump cradle, as I thought it may have been a faulty plug, but it still does it. I\'m now a tad puzzled, as you\'d imagine.

Also, occasionally when I clutch in at lights, or slowing down, reversing etc, the car tries to stall/idles low. Have had a read, and am leaning towards o2 sensor. Wondering if any other ideas were out there.

Cheers in advance for any help

[Subirex Automotive]

sounds like a bad electrical conection

[Paradox]

Yea was thinking that, obviously lol. Ripped pump back out just before and replaced the upper plug in the cradle that connects to the pump. While at it, noticed the fuel filter sock had fallen off the pump (lost the clip, didn\'t think much of it, have now fastened it properly, so won\'t be coming off in a hurry, touch wood lol) Would the filter coming off play any part in the situation?

[scoobygt]

that would mean its not getting any fuel haha

[Paradox]

Figured that lol. Fixed the first problem, replaced on of the plugs, and fastened filter properly, no more issue there. Just the occasional low idle/stalling when clutching in

[scoobygt]

most twin turbos idle hunt abit since there are soooooo many vac lines that could be leaking slightly, but yeah I\'ve got a 94 auto gt and a 2000 b4 manual also two other people I know have 94 manual gt\'s none of which run well, like a bag of ass holes really, my gt has the most engine mods, big turbos, very high boost, and lots of fuel, and after all that all three of those manual cars would still beat me, I\'ve learnt to leave them alone

[Paradox]

Yea I hear ya, im leaving mine basically stock. Have only done manual conversion, mines chipped ecu (came with conversion) walbro pump, bh downpipes and full exhaust, pod filter and atmo dumping bov. That\'s engine wise. Thinking of going to a recirculating bov, or back to factory, as I hear the atmo bovs aren\'t the best. Also have bigger turbos but thinking of just leaving turbos as is.

[scoobygt]

yeah haha they are very picky, my b4 is slightly better and easyer to tune being newer

[Paradox]

Each to their own, rather the older tt motors lol mine still goes bloody well, keeps up with alot of cars that it shouldn\'t lol

[Marky]

They\'re all hand grenades, stop arguing haha

As for the idle issue - sounds like a normal leaky BOV fault, try blocking the pipe off outright (or tighten the BOV up if you have that option) and see if it fixes it

[Paradox]

Yup, agree there, st ftw! Lol will be relooming and converting the wagon once engine decides to pop (226kms and counting)

Thinking about going back to factory bov, as was thinking that the bov contributed to the problem. Bloody temperamental tt Suby lol. The one I have is nice and tight, set reasonably hard (flutters at low boost haha) but I read that dumping the boost, rather then recirculating it as factory one does, doesn\'t help with the idle once dropping the revs.

[Marky]

It *can* but to be honest I\'ve never run into a car when the dumping of air was the issue with poor idle etc, its almost always just the valve itself not sealing properly. The valve is only open for the time you hear the "psssh" noise, after that it is (in theory) closed and irrelevant, however there\'s almost always some tolerance between the piston and the cylinder it is in - and the smallest amount of air will squeeze past. The exception being the likes of the HKS valves which operate almost like an external gate, and don\'t have a brass piston to wear down over time.

I had a minor idle issue with my last BOV, sent some CRC down there and cleaned everything up, problem went away, must not have been closing smoothly or something.

Least chucking factory valve on is a 2 minute job so pretty easy to rule out.