Legacy shuddering whilst accelerating

[Guest]

honestly it the Upper Engine Cleaner worked for me and for $25.00 you cant really go wrong. Its worth the try.

[Guest]

 Omegah said:

does the UEC really work?

Yep it sure does....like subleggtb said, it makes a whole lot of smoke, you'll think you've blown your car up....lol! but thats normal.

[Bazza-NZ]

 Subiehead']

[quote name='Omegah said:

does the UEC really work?

/quote]

Yep it sure does....like subleggtb said, it makes a whole lot of smoke, you'll think you've blown your car up....lol! but thats normal.

I still remember the day i did mine, the dude next door rang the emergency services as the through my car was on fire due to the huge amount of smoke that poured out my exhaust that surrounded my car and half the street

Must admit even the fire crew was impressed when they rocked up.. all i could do was laugh told them that my car was cold, just needed to warm up ;D

SUEC does wonders aye, i'd def recommenced it to anyone that owns a Subaru.. i ran it through my car ever 6 months now, makes a huge difference

{ONTO THE TEMP SENSOR ISSUE}

Is there anyway to test the sensor? Mine is hard starting but don't want to waste money in replacing it if its not the cause... Is there an easy way of testing it with like a multimeter?

[richm]

Engine cleaning we have tried with my car. It seemed to make a difference so we did a second can a month later. But in fact this had nothing to do with the cold engine issue. Spoke with Subaru today, the temp sensor was one of the first items which they tried replacing, so unfortunately not this one for me either. I certaintly don't boost while engine is cold. I don't ever go above 3K for about the first 10 minutes, but I do call the line at starting the car and letting it sit for 10 minutes before driving anywhere. It is just not practical to use up so much gas and waste so much time. I suspect your "normal" driver may not notice the hesitation / shuddering in my car when cold, but I describe myself as pretty anal when it comes to keeping a car in good shape.

Let us know how it goes with your temp sensor when you get that replaced this weekend.

[Guest boostin]

Is this happening on manuals, autos, or both? I'm thinking maybe a slipping clutch pack in an auto?? ???

[BC5RA]

Upper engine cleaner is good; make it part of your service every 2-4 oil changes.

I would change the oil after i have applied it though.

[Guest]

Changed the temp sender unit for the ecu and ran the upper cylinder cleaner through the engine.

Man its like driving a totally different car!

Smooth, just a joy to drive.

Highly recommend doing this.

[Guest]

Make sure you have done ECU reset after replacing temp sensor

[Guest]

Hmmm, when I say I changed, I mean Wingers Changed, I "assume" It would have been done?

If not how do I reset the ecu?

[Guest]

do a search

there is a thread here on how to......

Or call them and ask

[Guest]

I hacy noticed mine has been smoother with the cold weather when engine cold so as you say could be related to temp sensor.

[Guest boostin]

 Smitty said:

Hmmm, when I say I changed, I mean Wingers Changed, I "assume" It would have been done?

If not how do I reset the ecu?

It definitely wasn't me who replaced it, so I can't tell you whether or not it has been reset. I would hazard a guess and say one of the muppets changed it and didn't reset the ECU. They wouldn't have known they had to.

[Guest]

subleggtb, richm

I have the same symptoms as you guys, I will try the UEC and report. I've taken my car to Winger (and spent many a buck) in an attempt to get this resolved.

I also would like to add:

• I find the shuddering/lack of power more prominent when the engine is under higher load, like performing a hillstart or towing.
  
• The shuddering/lack of power does lessen with a warmer engine, but under high load situations it will still die.
  
• No ECU error codes are coming up to report on faulty sensors.
  
• Replacing spark plugs have had no noticable effect removing/improving my symptoms.
  
• Running on different octane fuels hasn't improved/exacerbated symptoms for me.
  
• I have a non-turbo Legacy, just in-case you are wondering if this is a turbo-only related problem.
  

[richm]

Interesting to hear. Not exactly the same symptoms but similar. I haven't mentioned it earlier but with mine I cannot idle between 600 and 2000 rpm. No gas=600rpm, the least gas I can give=2000rpm. Of course the car travels through this range but I cannot give little enough gas to stablise less than 2000. Subaru believes this is related to the same cold engine shuddering problem but are at a loss unfortunately to know what is causing it.

Anyone else have this problem? Inability to give just a very small amount of gas?

[Guest]

tps setting !

[Guest boostin]

 Ichi Ban said:

tps setting !

Exactly what I was just thinking!!

[B4 2000]

hey guys,

i have the same problem with my car but with a bit of difference. it doesnt happen when changing gear and accelerating only, it happens when im going in a constant speed as well and you can see the boost gauge go nuts when that happen.

i paid over $300 to fix it or trying to fit that and still the same, checked the ecu, change the spark plugs, changed fuel filter and still the same. the thing is i told the mechanic this happen when the car is cold only so i left the car with him and when he took it to a test drive it was fine nothing happen

this problem started when i put a 95octane + booster (i use 98octane but i had to use 95 once)

i just had the car serviced today and the mechanic who had it serviced said and i quote " you got a damn good car, i never seen a legacy good as yours" >>> i dont think thats true but i guess its figure of speech

my ride is a B4 2000 manual gearbox

oh yeah, im gonna give the SUEC a go and let you know what happen

[dumbskate]

With those symptoms I wouldn't have gone for Spark and Fuel first. Personally I woudl start at AFM and maybe coil packs if it was happening under load. Do you have, or have you had a Pod filter in there?

Have you given the ECU a reset since the 95 + booster was in it. The ECU's are supposed to correct themselves over time but if the ECU has retarded something because of the 95 then it may be playing up now taht you are back on 98.

[Guest]

 dumbskate said:

With those symptoms I wouldn't have gone for Spark and Fuel first. Personally I woudl start at AFM and maybe coil packs if it was happening under load. Do you have, or have you had a Pod filter in there?

Have you given the ECU a reset since the 95 + booster was in it. The ECU's are supposed to correct themselves over time but if the ECU has retarded something because of the 95 then it may be playing up now taht you are back on 98.

So you wouldn't have looked at spark and fuel !! Yet would look at AFM and coil packs !!

[dumbskate]

Wouldn't have look at them (and replaced them at $300)first.

Personally that would be my first thing to check before replacing plugs and fuel filter, yes. AFM would be the first thing I would check. That seems fair enough. Coils would only be a consideration if B4 2000 was being a bit vague on the "happens when I'm going at a constant speed" and what he actually meant was "heading up a hill with a bit of load at low revs". Don't get me wrong I don't have your credentials Ichi Ban but when mine was doing a similar thing at random time it was the AFM and when my previous ride did it under load at low rev it was cracks in two coils. Gotta love a guy for trying.

Do all the !! and !! mean I just got flamed?

[B4 2000]

i didnt change the plugs and the fuel filter just because i thought i might be them, i did that also cuz i want to run the car on a dyno and i guess they must of reset the ECU that day, dont you think?

it doesnt matter if the car is under load or up hill or anything, it just happen not every time it does happen like 6 times out of 10. i do run the car for 2-3 mins before i set off but it seems like that doesnt help.

[Guest]

 dumbskate said:

Wouldn't have look at them (and replaced them at $300)first.

Personally that would be my first thing to check before replacing plugs and fuel filter, yes. AFM would be the first thing I would check. That seems fair enough. Coils would only be a consideration if B4 2000 was being a bit vague on the "happens when I'm going at a constant speed" and what he actually meant was "heading up a hill with a bit of load at low revs". Don't get me wrong I don't have your credentials Ichi Ban but when mine was doing a similar thing at random time it was the AFM and when my previous ride did it under load at low rev it was cracks in two coils. Gotta love a guy for trying.

Do all the !! and !! mean I just got flamed?

Flamed - maybe

Funny how when guys here have a problem and have fixed it, they get tunnel vision that this is the sole cause of the said problem

( They don't say that they spent many hours testing with many 2nd hand parts to eliminate cause's)

The biggest problem here is

1, piss poor fault discription from the orginal thread starters.

2, guys with very little knowledge putting in the "guess" solutions

3, the tunnel vision approach.

I probably get banned for saying this but

THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM IS DIAGNOSTIC STRATAGEY ( MOST OF YOU HAVE NO IDEA! )

Sub's and infact any car- diagnostics stratagey is a sequence of logical steps

I get ****ed off when guys / gals here complain about how much a workshop cost to fix there car, yet would have spent x times longer and replaced more parts than was needed.

Also

SO MANY HERE WANT THE CHEAPEST OPTION, which backfires in there face and also workshops.

Most of you need to open your wallet and accept the fact that Sub's are not the cheapest to keep on the road

[BC5RA]

Ichi Ban, i doubt you would get banned for speaking the truth.

[Guest]

 BC5RA said:

Ichi Ban, i doubt you would get banned for speaking the truth.

Just aswell I edited all the IDIOTS, MUPPETS, etc beofre I posted it

[B4 2000]

it's not about the money Ichi (i mean in my case) i would open my wallet and pay happily if i thought that would solve my problem cuz after all the car is mine and i want to live longer and better. As i said before i pay the $300 not just because the guy thought that might solve the problem but these parts also needed to be changed every while so im not complaining i was telling what happen.

this is my first time owning a Subaru or a turbo charged car so i dont really know anything bout it and i try to take her to the best garages to insure the best job will be done to her.

btw, the upper engine cleaner is freakin awesome i just came bk from my test ride and the car feels sweeter

cheers