Newb ICE Q's.

[RSB]

Current setup:

Sony iPod H/U

Sony 6” Splits with passive Crossovers up front

Sony 6.5” at rear

Sony 4 Channel Amp

JBL sub (either 12” or 15” I forget) either way, piece of shit amp only just powers it.

And yes I realise sony gear is crap.

Anyway, want to upgrade to two 12” subs and want to power them either by a monoblock or separate 2 chan amp in series. What would be the best option?, or, am I likely to get a bigger punch just by monoblocking my current sub? Can’t remember wattage – will find out later

Being a newb im not sure and have to ask – Can I then, (limited preouts I think) use the speaker level inputs on the sonypieceofshit amp to run the rear speakers? End goal is to have all speakers + subs amped. Currently the rears run off the Headunit, fronts are amped and 2 chans on the amp bridged to run the sub.

Eventually I will be replacing all components with reasonably highend gear in order to attain reasonable sound quality.

Really atm I just want to understand car audio by trial and error.

[Guest]

some of those sony amps have the high level input, so ur current wiring to the speakers will feed signal to the amp, then wire from the amp to the speakers.

for the 12" subs, i think mono blocks are a bit more expensive, but i would use a mono block on each sub or a two channel mono block.

-smurff

[RSB]

 smurff said:

some of those sony amps have the high level input, so ur current wiring to the speakers will feed signal to the amp, then wire from the amp to the speakers.

for the 12" subs, i think mono blocks are a bit more expensive, but i would use a mono block on each sub or a two channel mono block.

-smurff

Choice, thats what i needed to know.

However, if i go down the two mono block route, what guage power cable should i be running from the battery to splitter?

[Guest]

ggrrr... guage... bloody american sizing lol

bigger is always better

will depend on the power requirements of the amps you get.

-smurff

[subout]

Wait till you decide on the amps you buy before you decide on cabling, If budget is an issue stick with one good 12" rather than two smaller ones then run one good mono for it. Its all about box design.

Like smurff said cabling is all down to power requirements

[Guest]

That is a massive amount of cabling subout!

[Guest dynofiend]

 RSB said:

Current setup:

Sony iPod H/U

Sony 6” Splits with passive Crossovers up front

Sony 6.5” at rear

Sony 4 Channel Amp

JBL sub (either 12” or 15” I forget) either way, piece of **** amp only just powers it.

And yes I realise sony gear is crap.

Anyway, want to upgrade to two 12” subs and want to power them either by a monoblock or separate 2 chan amp in series. What would be the best option?, or, am I likely to get a bigger punch just by monoblocking my current sub? Can’t remember wattage – will find out later

Being a newb im not sure and have to ask – Can I then, (limited preouts I think) use the speaker level inputs on the sonypieceof**** amp to run the rear speakers? End goal is to have all speakers + subs amped. Currently the rears run off the Headunit, fronts are amped and 2 chans on the amp bridged to run the sub.

Eventually I will be replacing all components with reasonably highend gear in order to attain reasonable sound quality.

Really atm I just want to understand car audio by trial and error.

If I were you, id look at upgrading your amp first, and leave the rest of the kit as it is. Try a decent 4ch amp and run the front speakers of 2 of those channels, then bridge the other two to your sub. Leave your rears still connected to the HU. Maybe try reading up a bit on box design and work out what volume you current have, to see if this needs looking at. After that (depending on what you currently have), id upgrade the HU or front speakers. Usually, youll get more of an increase in sound quality from upgrading the HU than the speakers.

[Ryan]

 subout said:

Wait till you decide on the amps you buy before you decide on cabling, If budget is an issue stick with one good 12" rather than two smaller ones then run one good mono for it. Its all about box design.

Like smurff said cabling is all down to power requirements

Jesus!!

[kamineko]

anyone notice the 20mm(?) mdf and whole container of screws? serious

[Guest lan_killa]

 Ryan']

[quote name='subout said:

Wait till you decide on the amps you buy before you decide on cabling, If budget is an issue stick with one good 12" rather than two smaller ones then run one good mono for it. Its all about box design.

IMG]http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g13/subout/IMG_0610.jpg[/img]

Like smurff said cabling is all down to power requirements

Jesus!!

FAR OUT... did you climb a power pole with a hacksaw and cut down some cable from there?

will admit, looks good and tidy... although that port in the box looks not quite optimal... then again, i dont have measurements so cant really comment

[subout]

Pure SPL box, 147.5 db at present. still work to be done like cornering, resin all internals etc

white cabling is 70mm2 Cabling running 6000 wrms (real wattts)

30mm MDF

Port sizing is 6inch aeroport tuned to 46hz.

Layout is temp as a full false floor is going in.

[Guest]

 subout said:

Pure SPL box, 147.5 db at present. still work to be done like cornering, resin all internals etc

white cabling is 70mm2 Cabling running 6000 wrms (real wattts)

30mm MDF

Port sizing is 6inch aeroport tuned to 46hz.

Layout is temp as a full false floor is going in.

if this is real watts im assuming u mean electrically speaking? this give us a current draw of 500Amps at 12v,

also this whould be at an rms value, so you could peak at 30% more than this aprox.

the 70mm2 cable, if it is the type im thinking from looking at the pic, welding cable basiclly, is only rated at aprox 319Amps, aprox

now, you can see im a little confused

-smurff

[kamineko]

yeah the term 'real watts' is thrown around a lot

its all just calculation. some of the impedances these car amps are seeing are crazy low, hence the high wattage figures.

calculate the RMS power at an 8 ohm load and that gives you a better indication of 'real watts' - 8 ohms isn't a special figure just something most in the industry can relate to.

although problem with that is car amp efficiency at normal 8ohm load is .....

[Guest]

aahhh so in realation to the watt hes talkin about, its the output wattage, not the actual wattage of the amp ie real power used to run the item.

-smurff

[kamineko]

well... yes and no?

in any case you have power drawn - losses = power provided

i just think back to simple terms when people say x thousand real watts. - go plug that speaker into the mains (which is capable of around 2400W at 10amps) and see how long it lasts

dont get me wrong there are units out there that will take it.. but for how long heh

[subout]

"real watts" is probably the wrong term if we get fussy about it. I was using it as a comparison to output claimed by say your basic brands compaired to high end audiophile brands.

In competition we load our amps down to 0.5, our subs can take a huuge amount of power, especially in burps (small blasts used in comps)

here is a vid of a ATOMIC sub taking 26290wrms (220Vx119.5A from a wall socket haha)

http://www.paulsaudio.co.nz/videos?videoId=6

[Guest]

now thts wht i like tht shows real watt's.

a test like that on the output to the sub off an amp would be nice to know the resualts. that and what the input current to the amp is at the time.

i dont like th way they use watt to judge an amps power, generally i think its inacurate lol

-smurff