Where to from here...

[nismovzr2003]

Hey guys,

I\'ve recently upgraded to a 98 V4 Type R coupe from my 96 V3 GF8 wagon.

Pretty much swapped everything over, i.e. took all the expensive sh*t and put in the coupe.

The coupe had been upgraded with a 6 speed RA gearbox and Brembo\'s when I bought it so pretty happy with this. I\'ve recently installed Tein HA Adjusties also.

The engine was removed from the wagon, at the time it was producing 319kw @ 26psi on 98 pump gas. Please see spec\'s below;

Engine/Heads:

V3 Open Deck Block c/w Centre Thrust Crank

Eagle H-Beam Rods (CRS51375S3D)

Wiseco Pistons (K576M925, 92.5mm, 8.5 CR)

Aftermarket Valve Springs

Group ‘N’ Small & Big End Bearings

Bolt-On’s/Accessories:

Garrett GT3082R Ball Bearing Turbo (0.63 AR Housing, complete with Anti Surge Drilling)

TiAL 44mm External V-Clamp Wastegate

Sard 800cc Side Feed Injectors + Pressure Reg

FMIC

Synapse Synchronic BOV

Computer:

Link G3 (upgraded with G4 Firmware, 5 Bar MAP Sensor)

Drive Train/Componentry:

6 Speed RA Gearbox

Brembo Brake upgrade

Tein HA Adjustable Suspension

Recently Installed:

Kelford 268/264 Camshafts

Spec \'C\' 12mm Oil Pump

Future Plan’s:

Enlarged and Baffled Sump

Surge Tank c/w external pumps

Block upgrade options

P1 Steel Cam Gears modified to be adjustable

As mentioned I\'ve recently installed a bigger oil pump and some Kelford Cam\'s, so not 100% sure how this will affect things power wise.

What I\'m interested in is peoples ideas of what would be good/better options regarding block/crank options to make the engine strong and safe as I\'m aware I\'m pushing a lot of power through the open deck which isn\'t really a good thing. I\'ve heard talk of using standard 2L rods/pistons with a 2.5L crank thus making a 2.1L? Is this possibly an option?

Is it possible to utilise a CDB with a rear thrust crossed drilled crank and utilise all my existing pistons/rods, etc?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

[Guest]

Shouldve put the 6sp and brembos into the wagon dude. Got pics? Is it not tuned for the cams yet?

Just go CDB machined for rear then use v8 sti crank or just get a semi block with V8 sti crank.

[nismovzr2003]

 evowrx said:

Shouldve put the 6sp and brembos into the wagon dude. Got pics? Is it not tuned for the cams yet?

Just go CDB machined for rear then use v8 sti crank or just get a semi block with V8 sti crank.

I\'m wanting to upgrade ecu\'s as the G3 Link\'s don\'t have motor sport features, once the ecu is done then a retune will be carried out for the addition of the cam\'s.

Yeah thats what I was thinking block/crank wise, is there much involved with having the galleries machined for the later model rear thrust crank?

What you reckon I\'m looking at price wise to build this bottom end, assuming I\'m reusing my forged pistons/rods, etc, etc? I guess its just a matter of getting hold of a v8 crank, CDB and then the machining.

Case bolts wise, better to up grade to ARP over factory? Whats involved with machining for ARP case bolts, is this what the call line boring?

Cheers.

[Guest]

Sorry I cant help no exp with it. Plenty of smart guys who have done this on here who will pop in hopefully. On second thought if youre running P1 rods you need to stick with P1 crank.

[marc]

Nothing wrong with running stock case bolts. ARP are direct fit but always pays to check the tunnel and main clearences after if you intend on using higher torque specs.

Rear thurst conversion isant too badly priced if you get some1 thats done then befor to do it. (tang slot on #3 and mill number 5 to accept R/T bearing shells then use whole R/T bearing kit)

Ver 8 crank would be the way to got but pretty hard to find and usually cost abit.

you can use your rods and pistons and just bore to suit your 0.5mm over

[nismovzr2003]

 marc said:

Nothing wrong with running stock case bolts. ARP are direct fit but always pays to check the tunnel and main clearences after if you intend on using higher torque specs.

Rear thurst conversion isant too badly priced if you get some1 thats done then befor to do it. (tang slot on #3 and mill number 5 to accept R/T bearing shells then use whole R/T bearing kit)

Ver 8 crank would be the way to got but pretty hard to find and usually cost abit.

you can use your rods and pistons and just bore to suit your 0.5mm over

I was under the impression the old CDB\'s required line boring in order for the ARP case bolts to fit?

Am I able to utilise a v8 rear thrust crank with p1 rods? Someone has mentioned it could be an issue?

Cheers for your help.

[Guest]

Nope P1 rods need P1 crank just throw it all in a cdb. Unless you go down the stroker route.

[nismovzr2003]

 evowrx said:

Nope P1 rods need P1 crank just throw it all in a cdb. Unless you go down the stroker route.

Is a v8 rear thrust crank p1 or p2? If p2 I\'ll need to replace rods.

[Guest]

V5- is p2

[marc]

why do you need to replace rods???

Nah line bore has nothing to do with the bolts fitting its just what the added torque setting can do to your main tunnel clearences and strightness so pays to check it torqued up with bearings and no crank etc and go from there.

[Guest]

P1 rods marc.

[marc]

You can also do a 2.1 build as you mentioned and use a late model 2.5 heat treated crank with stroker pin height pistons. Still would want to convert CDB to R/T ither way if it was mine. Then you midas well sell your shortblock as it would be a waste if you were only taking rods out for the sake of saving $600 odd :.

Ither setup would make a nice tough 2.0/2.1L engine. Theres other options out there depending on your budget just do a search on here and im sure youl find alternative shortblock build options. All depends on what you want from the car and how deep your pocket is...

[marc]

 evowrx said:

P1 rods marc.

Who cares bro lol look at the part number :. Rods are the same anyway. 2much net info yo ;D.

[Guest]

 marc']

[quote name='evowrx said:

P1 rods marc.

/quote]

Who cares bro lol look at the part number : . Rods are the same. 2much net info yo ;D .

48 and 52mm arent they? Part number didnt work for me.

[marc]

that only applies in the NA/USA world bro. I have a brand new set of that exact part num sittin on the shelf for my Ver 8 block.

[Guest]

So everything over here is which 48 or 52mm?

[marc]

52mm with the exception of some N/A stuff

[nismovzr2003]

Sounds like it could get expensive. Is there any advantages to doweling and or sleaving an ODB?

[lachlan]

I believe its not common practice to sleeve a obd as there isn\'t any thing to hold the bore/sleeve in

[nismovzr2003]

 lachlan said:

I believe its not common practice to sleeve a obd as there isn\'t any thing to hold the bore/sleeve in

What about dowling?

[marc]

Dowelling is good but thats not your weak point being open deck so kind of pointless. I would reccomend dowelling you CDB or semi closed if you like to aid reliability at that power.

As for sleeves midas well just go closed deck instead of wasting money on a open deck with sleeves that will cost u 15 closed deck blocks?

[nismovzr2003]

What about making the ODB more reliable by inserting plates? I\'ve been told that you can machine recesses into the deck\'s and then pressure fit plates to strengthen the bores?

So if money is an issue, I guess there\'s only really a couple of options to make a strong reliable bottom end, 1. get hold of a cheap CDB and reuse my existing internals, won\'t be rear thrust crank unfortunately however how much of a difference is there between rear and center thrust cranks?

2. get hold of a Semi CDB which has a rear thrust crank however I\'d then need to buy new rods/pistons as my p1 rods/pistons won\'t work from what I\'ve been told.

Thoughts?

Cheers for everyone\'s help, its been awesome!

[marc]

 nismovzr2003 said:

What about making the ODB more reliable by inserting plates? I\'ve been told that you can machine recesses into the deck\'s and then pressure fit plates to strengthen the bores?

So if money is an issue, I guess there\'s only really a couple of options to make a strong reliable bottom end, 1. get hold of a cheap CDB and reuse my existing internals, won\'t be rear thrust crank unfortunately however how much of a difference is there between rear and center thrust cranks?

2. get hold of a Semi CDB which has a rear thrust crank however I\'d then need to buy new rods/pistons as my p1 rods/pistons won\'t work from what I\'ve been told.

Thoughts?

Cheers for everyone\'s help, its been awesome!

Yes you can close deck the open deck 2L you have but thats a serious waste of $ as youl be no better off then a closed deck block thatd cost u 1/10th of the cost to close your open.

1. Yes not a bad option and still will make a good shortblock but its not the centre vs rear thats better as such its just that the rear allows you the later cranks which have a better oiling design and surface treatment allowing improvement to the reliability of your bearings aka engine .

2. If your not going to rear the CDB in my option id go this way aka Semi closed block with ver8 crank then re use your pistons and rods. Then dowell that but if your in the money for dowelling midas well do the R/T coversion and go closed deck as wont be that much extra to do at the same time by the same people.

Future note tho I personaly wouldnt push a semi closed past 350wkw for reliability but thats a sh*t load of power for most. Mind you you will struggle to get a 2.0L much past that without NOS anyway

[marc]

and your pistons and rods should/will be fine espesh by the part # you have posted and 2.0L off the shelf pistons are just really that...

Hope that helps

[Guest]

If it was me Id just bolt the whole lot into a CDB and run centre thrust. Will pretty much only cost you the tear down/gaskets/cdb.