twin turbo only boosting 0.7 bar at 6000

[Guest]

just got my car back from the shop, had AFM replaced, and knock sensor moved.. but its been moved quite a distance? now sits under a bolt for the intercooler mount passenger side front, im guessing this is way to far, and since its been put there, my car only boosts 0.7 bar up to redline, sometimes it does wind up but the engine hates it, you can feel it, turbos are working hard... but car dont wanna accelerate at all, any ideas? should i be moving the sensor back down closer to the engine? like around the G/Box bellhousing? old 1 is a c**t to get out. so it was left where it belongs (thanks raydeo for your help)

any idea's why second turbo isnt working?

also its not using water or blowing any smoke so it cant be blowen?? or sezied?

cheers

chris

[Guest]

reset ECU and recheck

I'd suggest replacing knock sensor and mounting in correct position only !

[Koom]

+1

So is the knock sensor anywhere near the cylinders now? Don't understand where it is by your description.

Just start by pulling off the intercooler and get in there to where the sensor should be!

[Guest boostin]

Sounds to me like you've left a hose off somewhere and have a big boost leak.

[Guest]

i agree with boostin

(but ive had a faulty tt afm cause me so over boost to close to 3 bar maybe can do Opposite with lower boost are you sure correct afm was installed? try using 1st gen turbo afms they work better in my opinion)

[Guest]

i can only use the orange stick afm as its a GTB,

knock sensor is mounted on inlet manifold where the intercooler mounts bolt to the IC, if i put it on bel housing it would be 1.5 inches from hte old one, had to move it as engine is getting worm

[Guest keltik]

Sounds like the knock sensor would be pretty useless where it is. Id take the old one off and put the new one it its correct place.

Any check engine lights?

[Guest]

 sheaty said:

i agree with boostin

(but ive had a faulty tt afm cause me so over boost to close to 3 bar maybe can do Opposite with lower boost are you sure correct afm was installed? try using 1st gen turbo afms they work better in my opinion)

3 bar = 45 psi = Impossible from those size turbos = primary blows at 17(ish psi)

Only fit correct AFM for vehicle to ensure correct fuel base calibration

[EJ20T]

Id suggest putting the knock sensor in its proper place, playing a dangerous game with it in the wrong position. and check all hoses to make sure u havnt left or knocked anything off

[Guest]

nope no engine check lights, i started to move it, i have been told as the motors get old, the knock a bit, as any motor would, but the knock sensors on subbys im told are very sensitive,

basically i drove to work this morning, didnt boost it at all, the engine would cut out, but not turn off, it would loose all power for a second max, its like the timing on it went all ass about face, did this 3 times over a 12km trip,

would this be caused by the knock sensor being so far away from the engine block as its positioned ontop of the inlet manifold?

cheers

chris

[Guest boostcut]

what complete mick put the knock sensor in a place that it wont even pick up pinking... good one

[Koom]

Have you reset the ECU yet??

[Guest boostin]

 clutch_86 said:

nope no engine check lights, i started to move it, i have been told as the motors get old, the knock a bit, as any motor would, but the knock sensors on subbys im told are very sensitive,

basically i drove to work this morning, didnt boost it at all, the engine would cut out, but not turn off, it would loose all power for a second max, its like the timing on it went all ass about face, did this 3 times over a 12km trip,

would this be caused by the knock sensor being so far away from the engine block as its positioned ontop of the inlet manifold?

cheers

chris

No it won't. It will do the opposite. Being far away it will sense less knock, letting the engine detonate more.

Try a new air flow meter.

[Guest]

 sheaty said:

i agree with boostin

(but ive had a faulty tt afm cause me so over boost to close to 3 bar maybe can do Opposite with lower boost are you sure correct afm was installed? try using 1st gen turbo afms they work better in my opinion)

sorry not up on bar to psi i thought 1 bar was arround 10psi ive had mine over boost to 30psi (losts a smoke nasty)

[Guest boostcut]

1 bar is 14.7 psi

[NotAWhiteGTB]

Check all the solenoids are working properly (you can do this by hooking up the black plugs under you dash by your steering column and turning your key onto the II position)

Quite often stupid things block the solenoids from opening, i have accidentilly put the dip stick for the gearbox in with the kink around the wrong way and that has stopped one of the solenoids from opening a valve for the secondary stage of the turbo. The amount of times small stuff like this has happened to me is unreal

[Guest boostin]

Dipstick around the wrong way preventing secondary from working? WTF have you been smoking??

[Joker]

top bends over under IC/turbo actuator...

[Glen]

 NotAnotherWhiteGTB said:

Check all the solenoids are working properly (you can do this by hooking up the black plugs under you dash by your steering column and turning your key onto the II position)

Quite often stupid things block the solenoids from opening, i have accidentilly put the dip stick for the gearbox in with the kink around the wrong way and that has stopped one of the solenoids from opening a valve for the secondary stage of the turbo. The amount of times small stuff like this has happened to me is unreal

Unreal. But not unbelievable. :-*

[EJ20T]

 boostin']

[quote name='clutch_86 said:

nope no engine check lights, i started to move it, i have been told as the motors get old, the knock a bit, as any motor would, but the knock sensors on subbys im told are very sensitive,

basically i drove to work this morning, didnt boost it at all, the engine would cut out, but not turn off, it would loose all power for a second max, its like the timing on it went all ass about face, did this 3 times over a 12km trip,

would this be caused by the knock sensor being so far away from the engine block as its positioned ontop of the inlet manifold?

cheers

chris

/quote]

No it won't. It will do the opposite. Being far away it will sense less knock, letting the engine detonate more.

Try a new air flow meter.

I second that this sounds like a AFM fault from experiance with dying AFM's

[Guest]

no idea on how to reset the ECU? just unplug it im guessing?