How to drift B4 Legacy? Understeer?? Handling??

[hhhh1]

are you sure?? ive been told by several people who have had auto bd5 legacies who stuffd round with the fuse marked "diff lock" that it makes it fully FWD, and that they did good as fwd skids...i dont see how 50/50 power spilt would make this even remotely possible

[Guest boostin]

Their centre transfers were fcuked then. Simple as that. Diff lock locks the drivetrain.

[hhhh1]

im a bit confused now, you seem to know your sht. but ive also been told its so you can lift up the front and tow your auto if it craps out without stuffing the trans or something. wouldnt that mean that the rear wheels were disengaged completely?

[Guest boostin]

No, not true. All 4 wheels must be off the ground. The rears are never disengaged completely. Thats why they call it "Full Time 4WD", or "AWD". Thats a good way of burning out the centre transfer clutch pack.

[hhhh1]

 boostin said:

No, not true. All 4 wheels must be off the ground. The rears are never disengaged completely. Thats why they call it "Full Time 4WD", or "AWD". Thats a good way of burning out the centre transfer clutch pack.

yea thats the thing i got told would get wrecked unlees the fuse was disabled. man i wish my car was auto again lol just so i could test it out. maybe ill have to go to a car dealer testdrive an auto sometime...have you or anyone else actually done it themselves to confirm what it actually does?

[Guest]

 boostin said:

I didn't have boost to use full stop!!

Yep just pull out of an intersection, kick the clutch part way out of it and hang on!!

Sounds like me in my work Hiace. Clutch dip ftw

[Guest loren]

 hhhh1']

[quote name='boostin said:

No, not true. All 4 wheels must be off the ground. The rears are never disengaged completely. Thats why they call it "Full Time 4WD", or "AWD". Thats a good way of burning out the b]centre transfer clutch pack.[/b]

yea thats the thing i got told would get wrecked unlees the fuse was disabled. man i wish my car was auto again lol just so i could test it out. maybe ill have to go to a car dealer testdrive an auto sometime...have you or anyone else actually done it themselves to confirm what it actually does?

Assuming your car will not be running (or maybe not even have any power at all) when being towed, what exactly is a fuse removal going to do? lol.

[hhhh1]

i dont know much about the suby auto transmissions but i assume the wheels will be turning the halfshafts which turn the rear diff which turns the driveshaft which will be spinning something in the trans while other bits arent spinning as they would in normal operation..or something like that, boostin will know

[hhhh1]

i thought removing the fuse caused the rear wheel drivetrain to disengage from the rest of the transmission but im apparantly incorrect

[Guest loren]

 hhhh1 said:

i thought removing the fuse caused the rear wheel drivetrain to disengage from the rest of the transmission but im apparantly incorrect

yeah, but we are talking about towing a non operational vehicle, so there will be no power going through the fuse if it was there or not,

meaning it has no effect on whether the car can be towed with the rear wheels on the ground or not.

[hhhh1]

perhaps...or maybe its one of those things that always has power going to it provided the battery is hooked up. i really dont know though thats just a guess, and im only going off what ive been told by other people in regard to what the fuse does/is for

[Guest keltik]

The fuse controls a hydraulic pressure relief solenoid. No engine running = no hydraulic pressure so regardless of whether or not the 'lektrik is flowing, its not going to do squat.

[nzkaosnz]

not overly wanting to add another 'i heard this'... but...i heard somewhere that this solenoid was for fitting a spacesaver so you didnt root diff.

[Guest keltik]

Yeah the fuse cuts control to the duty C solenoid so it runs at 100% leaving the clutch pack unlocked, according to the factory manual should be used with space savers. Hence why leaving it in too long burns things out.

[Guest Eastwolf]

OK thanks guys. Now we establish that

- Auto's have sontrger bias to the rear and therefore easier to waltz.

- In anycase, secondary boost is required, even when in wet conditions.

- Harsh treatment of the car is required.

- Wrx's (single turbo) are easier to step out (not such useful info)

- wagons are easier to step out.

- stiffer set up better.

Now I just need wide open space and some sedatives. =)

[dubbedup]

go for it!!!!!!!!!!! I for one want to see some pics of full lock in a B4.

[Guest keltik]

go for it!!!!!!!!!!! I for one want to see some pics of dents in a B4.

[BC5RA]

Another Subaru wreck.

[nzkaosnz]

 Eastwolf said:

OK thanks guys. Now we establish that

- Auto's have sontrger bias to the rear and therefore easier to waltz.

- In anycase, secondary boost is required, even when in wet conditions.

- Harsh treatment of the car is required.

- Wrx's (single turbo) are easier to step out (not such useful info)

- wagons are easier to step out.

- stiffer set up better.

Now I just need wide open space and some sedatives. =)

and i didnt know we had established that... a lot of those - i disagree w.

-Autos have more to front so harder to get out.

-No boost is needed, weight transfer is key. But after playing, it gets more fun on boost, and even more fun again on secondary

-Agree. Its drifting, its harsh anyway - tyres/wheel bearings

-Agree

-Legacy wagons possibly, WRX wagons are noctorious for not going sideways, even w liberal use of handbrake.

-Agree.

[Guest boostcut]

i dont agree with the wagons not going sideways. mine does it effortlessly. its nothing flash either.

[Jammasta]

Mean idea brodude