Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×
  • Current Donation Goals

    • Raised $0.00

Help! Bouncy idle (NEW PROBLEM READ NEW POST)


Guest

Recommended Posts

Edit : OK, I have redone the intake manifold using gasket goo.

My problem now:

When the cold idle valve is connected, the car has a 'wavy' up-and-down idle.

When the cold idle valve is disconnected the idle is steady. If I undo the screws and move it, it will raise or lower the idle. if I twist it completely anticlockwise, the car will stall or nearly stall.

What's wrong, why does it pulse from 2500-1500rpm when the cold idle valve is plugged in, but won't do it when it's not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took ICV off, used some gasket goo around both sides of the gasket, double checked the valve was installed correctly (it was according to FSM), refitted, no change.

Removing the TPS plug causes it to idle high (about 3k rpm) but steady???

Tried spraying CRC around various vacuum hoses, also tried removing some and blocking off or blowing through, can't seem to find any hose leaks. No change in idle even with vacuum hoses disconnected so the diagnosis of vacuum leak sounds about right to me as well.

A mate also suggested that doing the split fuel rail may have slightly changed the fuelling and as a result it's running rich/lean at idle and trying to compensate?

Unless anyone else has ideas of what to try I think I might just take it to a mechanic!

Edit: is there anything I can spray around various hoses that will diagnose a vacuum leak (by raising idle)??? Tried CRC but got nothing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest boostin

Split rail won't make it rich or lean, unless you've mucked something up. Have you sprayed stuff around the intake manifold gaskets? Might pay to pull the rails back off and check you haven't nicked an injector o-ring too.

Try using brake cleaner rather than CRC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Not yet. Suspects are either intake mani gaskets or a split in the intake pipe. Haven't had time to pull the thing apart again to replace either!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pete.. its a high possiblity its your power FC tune..

changing your fuel rail setup will have affected how much fuel is getting in to the cylinder as fuel pressure may have changed, so will have even put most of your fuel map out by a little bit.

Dom with the S15 had the same issue when cold.

Shouldn't take long to sort with a wideband and the powerfc software on the laptop :)

Give us a call and Aaron will be able to sort you out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That theory sounds doubtful to me.

Fuel pressure is regulated. Mixture is controlled by the ecu not the fuel pressure.

If there are no trouble codes I'd suspect an air leak, faulty ISC valve(thermo spring perhaps), or a misadjusted butterfly screw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest boostin

But the ecu is expecting 35ish psi of fuel pressure. If its getting 45psi it won't know until it hits closed loop and will run rich until then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can't do much with power FCs such as test each injector, put extra fuel in individual cylinders etc.. considering they were developed in like 96..

If you had FC datalogit then you can see the whole map and see what cells its jumping across

by changing the fuel rail setup fuel pressure may have increased or decreased. as fuel pressure increases more fuel gets in while the injectors are open so you car will run richer. but as fuel pressure increases injector dead time increases also.

A/F ratios and the timing around the idle cells cause this issue. If he brings it out then we may have an answer.

But yeah just bring it out pete, we can sit it in the dyno room, Put the wideband in there and plug the laptop in to it and then you might be able to rule that out as a factor and aaron can have a quick squz at the tune thats in there, although it could be good to chuck it on for a touch up tune if you have finished doing all your mods for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

OK, I have redone the intake manifold using gasket goo.

My problem now:

When the cold idle valve is connected, the car has a 'wavy' up-and-down idle.

When the cold idle valve is disconnected the idle is steady. If I undo the screws and move it, it will raise or lower the idle. if I twist it completely anticlockwise, the car will stall or nearly stall.

What's wrong, why does it pulse from 2500-1500rpm when the cold idle valve is plugged in, but won't do it when it's not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lankilla had this issue when he put his possum link in, he sorted it by doing something. . . hope he shows up in here, coz i cant remember wht he did.

-smurff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might well do.

Update - if I disconnect the TPS the car will just sit at 2500rpm straight.

Measured TPS signal voltage and it's getting 4.7 or close to it with ignition on but car not running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

0.46? Oh, that might be my problem. I have an analogue multimeter though so I may be measuring the power feed instead of the signal....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest boostin

For a higher given pressure, the injectors need to be open for a shorter duration to inject the same amount of fuel.

Injector open shorter = closed longer = increased dead time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem with mine,

Was told to do a upper cylinder cleaner, Not much difference.

Cleaned the ICV out with upper cleaner in the chamber and brake cleaner on the " bullet " and arm etc.

Still no change.

Then was told about how the TPS should be set at ~0.45v for mine, Did that and its cleared it up 90%

Think its just spark plugs now lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

    • MrSg9Sti04

      Afternoon team,
      im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 
      Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 
       
      Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.
       
      Cheers Shaun
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  gotasuby

      updated your DP's too : hope that's ok!
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  SAS

      Updated your DP's to reflect your business page  
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  Nachoooo

      Updated your Avatar : couldnt help myself  cheers!
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    40.9k
    Total Topics
    573.6k
    Total Posts


×
×
  • Create New...