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BOV Recirculating or Atmo. Mixed opinions!


nickch

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Guest crunchy

a heavier spring will over come the idle issues but its a bandaid, theres two different springs linear and progressive

depending what they have used will effect its overall effectivness

the other thing is how its made for the sealing side of things and how big the vacuum line is,not knowing what you have i cant advise without seeing it.

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its on a v7 wrx.

standard size vac line

what do u mean the vac line will make a difference??

shall i reduce the line using a "pill" type setup on the blowoff nipple?

i wan thinkin of packing a few washers under the spring so can have it preloaded with pressure

dunno if its progressive or linear rate tho..

just basically want to curb the open at idle issue

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Guest crunchy
 pappu said:

its on a v7 wrx.

standard size vac line

what do u mean the vac line will make a difference??

shall i reduce the line using a "pill" type setup on the blowoff nipple?

i wan thinkin of packing a few washers under the spring so can have it preloaded with pressure

dunno if its progressive or linear rate tho..

just basically want to curb the open at idle issue

can i see a pic? most valves these days dont even have seals in them

the vacuum line size controls volume so you can try a pill

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Guest crunchy
 pappu said:

sweet bro will try a pill"

oh but wont it make the bov slower to respond with the pill in place?

PS. its a copy greedy type RS bov lol

its one of those things to try but when your dealing with chinese copies anythings worth a try

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If you are using an airflow meter then every time it leaks air either at idle or when it opens the ECU will pump fuel in as a safe guard. This can cause bore wash. (the fuel washes the oil off the bores) this will cauce bore wear over time.

I have seen this alot when I worked on early VR-4's, Evo's, GTO's, Legacy's & WRX's many years ago.

If your car is running a map sensor eg Cosworth or has an aftermarket ECU using a map sensor eg most rally cars then it will work fine.

The whole reason these cars do that is because the recirculated air will be slighty hotter then the air entering the airfilter.

The reason why it will not idle is because the standard air by pass valve is open at idle this allows air to short cut though the air flow meter into the engine with out passing through the throttle body. (just like an idle by pass system) the factory ECU & air flow meter's were not designed for blow up valves . you can mess around with different blow up valves & springs, restrictors & pills etc. But the only reson to change is if you have an after market ECU or to get the, yes I am a rally car with a 1000hp noise!

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Guest crunchy

it takes a huge amount of fuel to create bore wash and for afew split seconds it doesnt hurt

the maf is sensitive to air flow thus when a blow valve is open at idle idle it see's that as a increase in air thus fuel to suit.

stock valves rescirc behind the maf thus it doesnt see it and it doesnt care.

believe it or not a maf is more accurate at sencing airflow than speed density ( map ) to which on high power setups they run two maf's to increase the voltage output or half what the ecu would see at idle giving a great range to work in.

for the most the main thing with the aftermarket valve is the poor idle and stalling over stock,as i said if they were made correctly or not run one ( ill explain one day ) they wouldnt have a problem nor with the slight richness when it by passes.

actually the extra fuel on over run can work to your advantage,helping to cool the intake charge after closing the throttle.

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Guest crunchy

haha thats what i like to here, dont go past 27psi it wont push much in the way of usefull air youll need a comp wheel change to go further

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Guest crunchy
 RECKLESS said:

I told you 28psi. never told you 35psi. even check with steve when you brought it.

i can remember that reece, even with ahlzimers lol

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 RECKLESS said:

I told you 28psi. never told you 35psi. even check with steve when you brought it.

I quite clearly remember you telling me 35. That was when you bought the water pipes round to Garys garage the day we started putting it in.

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well.. anyways.. picked up the TiAL today.. and its so much larger than it looks on picture!

any ideas on how I could fit that on an almost stock engine?

Depending on how long I will own the car, there are plans to go front mount, but I would like to chuck it on there in the mean time.

Has anyone got a similar setup?

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i have done a bit of looking around.. seems like you cant find flanges that fit the tials in NZ, so will have to get one made up.

one thing i'm worried about is clearance around the area.. and also clearance between the BOV and bonnet.

tial_1.jpg

http://www.pandlmotorsports.com/osCommerce/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=356

http://www.pandlmotorsports.com/osCommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_88_454_457_568&products_id=304

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yea bro clerence will be a killer for sure.. what sort of clange does the tial have - any pics?

cos gfb have the v7 flange that has like a round pipe and u could just hose the tial off that..

lol.. misson or wat ;)

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yea just get a v7 to like a round pipe type adapter and then hose it to the tial bov - simple

not sure on the hose size so get the one that suits or an adapter for that as well

e.g.

http://www.gfb.com.au//components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/5107.jpg

and

http://www.gfb.com.au//components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/5220.jpg

but yea u will need to get the right sizes etc

lol.. or swap with my GFB hybrid bov for v7 hahahahah ;)

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i didnt knwo a bov was meant to blow air diring idle and even on load as per this "expert" advice

PS. i tried a really lose spring on a bv where it wud open even at idle and eventually the ecu threw a code - system too rich

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