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Will also point out if you have an oil leak at the front of the engine with wrapped headers they will (can) get leaked on, soak it all up and dramatically increase the risk of an oil fire. Don't ask me how I figured this out, I've actually been meaning to take mine off headers as its more of a risk than benefit. Have read that if you have AVCS then some shielding around the front of the heads is a good idea.

Yip it's still hot enough that holding it would burn you, but you can touch it. i drove to Pbms and put my hand on it in front of Julius he thought I was nuts. Its a dual a layer coating and took 3 weeks to get done so if you want it you do have no car for a while. the cost was about $800 for headers, turbo and Downpipe so that is the downsides. before that I'd only seen the silver pretty version that does almost nothing. Turbo spoilers fast and the extra 8wkw didn't hurt.

Most after market ones have the MAF mounting plate but you need a retune as the diameter of the pipe changes so the sensor is out. look at process west or any other big brand. They a re in the $500 range without adding on the retune. rhe factory box is actually really good and the scoop takes from the high air pressure point below the bonnet lip so is hard to beat.

This is the exact reason why I've left my factory heat shielding on my twinscroll STi headers. It does more than well enough and if it has to come off to fix the flexi's in the headers I will try take em off in a way that I can weld them back on. Another thing to mention is also ceramic coating. Heard good things about it. @Username says he's used it on his stuff (turbo, manifold and up-pipe) and swore by it last time I saw him.

its the same as the sti for that model process wise.. not the hardest thing but take it easy for the first time.. a good set of spark socket and a small ratchet is what i use

Any cheap Bluetooth one should work with android to read codes and live data. iPhones need the wifi ones they are still cheap compared to the tactrix tactrix can program the ecu as well. i got mine from jaycar at a high price just as I couldn't find my USB one and it was Sunday with check light on.

@YoungOne that sucks. Its what got me but intercooler split and dripped on the Downpipe wrapping. @Loren I have the thick black coating and the factory heat shield on top so even without the undertray is should survive. I have before and after dyno runs and it took about 10 degrees out and afr was out by one down to 11.5:1 from just the coatings. it had wrap before that so it's well worth it.

Looking to save myself a bit of money (not time obviously) and potentially do the Spark plugs myself on my 07 S-GT (EJ20). Also a good chance to learn something new. I've watched a few videos of them getting done on a WRX STI's which I assume is very similar? I know this is going to a take a lot longer than doing a normal inline 4 engine or something, but is it really that difficult? Any tips or pointers to make life a bit easier when doing them? Do I need spark plug anti seize? I'll be putting in a set of NGK IR plugs. Any help appreciated.

As long as you have the right length socket extensions, and a universal joint handy... it's pretty easy. Just quite a bit of stuff to remove from the engine bay to get proper access.

Not hard, but takes time and a little patience. I found a good trick is to put a small blob of blue tack at the end of the spark plug socket if you dont have a good quality one as it helps grip the plug and saves a lot of swearing and time. Easier than a V6 Mondeo rear bank plug.

The secondary air pump, if you have one is the only thing that makes it super painful.

Upper engine cleaner sorts out deposits in the engine. Gets sprayed into the intake manifold. Can get it directly from Subaru. All the auto’s have power limiting knock compared to the manuals. If I was you i’d grab a 6mt manual and swap everything over considering all the parts you already have. Adding those other bits won't help make much more power on the current car. The way the auto loads it and the super high compression makes them seemingly knock well before the manuals regardless of modifications. It's a bummer Wanaka doesn't have that 100octane NPD fuel.

Don't do it. Make some proper shields with this: https://www.pro-wholesale.co.nz/heat-shielding-exhaust-shielding/

Still a work in progress but thats how mine is currently sounding. Not super happy with the continual pops when decelerating and would prefer just a few when lifting off but it's a start.