Jono24

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Jono24 last won the day on May 6

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270 ok this is getting a bit out of hand

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About Jono24

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    Christchurch
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    Mech Engineer

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  1. I think you are making the right call to go to the link. My conversions have been on a be5a with a wrx a7 ecu and my current be5d with a v3/4 plugin link, and although the wrx ecu went well, the link is a lot more flexible. This is particularly so compared to the early jecs ECU's. If you go to pick a part you could probably find a 4 plug ecu and a set of '3 plugs' and make an adapter on your bench which makes it heaps easier than trying to work in the footwell, this can help if you find a bargain on a plugin for a different model. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  2. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15344939/subaru-recalls-100000-cars-for-smog-pumps-that-could-melt-and-catch-fire/ And the NZ recall, although Exiga isn't listed, I'm guessing this is because it wasn't officially sold here. https://www.recalls.govt.nz/recall/subaru-forester-impreza-legacy-outback-wrx-model-years-2007-2014
  3. Isn't that the emissions air pump thingy which works at start up to make the exhaust cleaner? (or something like that) Have you checked to see if there are any recalls on your model? Would be worth a look i reckon.
  4. SAS baffle plate fitted, oil temp sensor fitted and wired into the Link, water pump replaced for a single port pump and new turbo oil drain fitted. Just need to clean up the sump and reattach then drop the motor back in its hole. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  5. A few little things: 1, turbo oil drain modification to use -an fittings 2, removal of factory oil modine, replace with remote oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich 3, oil temp sensor install - doesn't really need engine removal but while it's out it will be easier. 4, go buy and fit an SAS baffle plate I am still debating a closed deck ej25 short block or biting the bullet and going big with an ez30 but that would be a way off. I also need to get new synchros for my 6 spd but would like some longer ratios too as it doesn't see much track time. That will be the next priority. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  6. Cheers man! I'll get in touch. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks@joker ! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  8. Did the pre-facelift include the internal oil pump that the early sti's have? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  9. Hi Guys, Anyone in Christchurch with an engine crane/hoist they could lend me for a weekend? I can pick-up/drop-off to wherever. A box of beer for the lender! Cheers,
  10. What is the theory behind sticking to one type of oil once you've used it once?
  11. We see ~18l/100km when towing on the open road at 90km/hr Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  12. We have a 6m glass boat on a tandem axle braked trailer. We towed it from Auckland to Christchurch down the alternate route while kaikoura was blocked and through the Lindis pass. This was using our 2.5T auto 2008 SH5 Forester. Under brakes it is good and never have had a brake fade issue or felt uncomfortable under brakes. However... if the coolant system isn't up to scratch you will suffer. Our radiator was blocked and this caused us overheating issues so I'd get the radiator rodded or replaced, rodding a rad is cheap. I would also consider a trans cooler and eventually I'll fit an oil temp sensor to the engine oil. Suspension wise the factory suspension has a tendency to pitch a lot, this is amplified while towing and is not stable, ie the oscillation gets bigger as you go faster. We can safely tow at 90kmh but around 100 kmh the oscillation starts and gets a bit scary. Not a big issue but worth noting, this is likely to be different to an outback. I don't believe the pitching is a tongue weight issue, we are around 50kg tongue weight. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  13. Hey guys, from a technical perspective. you aren't describing cavitation as such. Cavtitation occurs when the pressure on the suction side of the pump drops too low (usually a negative value determined by the pump design) for the pumps given amount of lift. This boils the fluid on the suction side of the pump and the bubbles then collapse on the impeller. What you guys are describing is more like what I would refer to as dead-heading a pump. This is where the fluid essentially stalls (relative to the impeller) and you get fluid slip on the impeller (like compressor surge). It sounds like you are driving the pump off the end of its operational curve, and this is driving the current draw up and frying the pump motor. Can someone measure a dead pumps electrical resistance versus a good pump? Cavitation would destroy the impeller and maybe the shaft bearings/surfaces. Dead-heading will burn out the motor. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  14. I have an aluminum pulley on the crank, and I haven't (probably ever) been able to do it up tight enough, when it gets loose it makes a similar sound. I did some reading trying to diagnose mine and alot of people were saying the tensioners can fail and make this sound.
  15. One other thing, holsets aren't water cooled typically (some hx40s are). This will add to your oil temp significantly. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
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