Nachoooo

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About Nachoooo

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  • Drives :
    BH5 TS-R
    BLE 3.0R Spec B - Sold
    BP5 GT Spec B - Sold
    BPE 3.0R Spec B
  • Location
    Nelson
  • Occupation
    Apprentice Mechanic

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  1. Okay, the one on the LH side of the steering wheel. When you turn your head-lights on and the cluster/HVAC controls dim, that button might bring them back up to full brightness if you wanted to drive with your lights on during the day... The one on the RH side by the ignition barrel, that symbol looks like it might've been for one of the Japanese little parking distance bumper stick things they had, would often raise from the LHF corner of the bumper
  2. If they are standard filament bulbs and are after a simple upgrade, look for some quality Hella/Narva or other branded + output bulbs. Normally in like +120% or +150% etc etc. Bear in mind, this comes at the expense of bulb life If they're the factory HID units, boon's suggestion should have you covered. Side note, @boon when you went to Philips bulbs, did you stay with the OE 4300k colour or venture out for something different? Another thought, on the right hand side lower dash, to the right of the ignition barrel is a little switch panel. On that panel there could be a little scroll wheel numbered 0 through to 5. This is the headlight level adjuster, used to lower the headlight aim based on vehicle load, when you're towing, full boot, 5 passengers etc. If your car is empty (light) the scroll wheel should be on 0, if you're car is fully loaded (heavy), scroll the number up as you need. This lowers your headlights as to not blind oncoming cars when you have a full load (which lowers the rear of your car causing headlights to aim abnormally higher thus blinding)
  3. The bearings are a different size for a start, however the bolt in bearing carrier for the rear has a different (smaller on the 5x100 hub) bolt spacing. To swap to the larger bearing unit there's specialist marching required to the rear arms and an adapter plate fabricated. Have a look at the 3rd from bottom post here https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/conversion-5x100-5x114-3-05-lgt-129874p12.html?highlight=hub+swap
  4. After noticing some dead spots in the low beam lights on Mum's Outback, I was pretty keen to figure out what the hell was causing it These are the bi-xenon HID projectors on a NZ New 08 Outback. Made a decent pattern on the beam-setter, but couldn't quite understand the patchy output. I pulled the bumper and grille off to remove the lights. Bulbs appeared fine if a little aged. Next, I pulled out the reflector bowl/bulb housing behind the projector lens, and found the reflective chrome had started to peel off the housing. Next step is finding someone who can re-paint these, or if they need vacuum metalizing or what...
  5. Yeah, I probably should've mentioned that haha. @iludez Even delaying the claim, it boils down to insurance fraud, so make of that what you will... You'd be surprised how little the dealer will have to do with the whole replacement process, and in cases we've had, the glaziers say their hands get tied by the insurance company forcing aftermarket glass to be used. In our case anyway we can only advise genuine parts be used, then supply a genuine screen and fix/calibrate/aim when the inevitable c**k-up occurs With the HUD, I wouldn't be too concerned about the windscreen's role there, most commonly the HUD unit sits in the dash and is only projected/displayed onto the windscreen so no direct link there If you really want to think too hard about it I start worrying about the different refractivity of light through the lesser quality glass, and if that impacts all these super sensitive and closely calibrated safety systems...
  6. The best way to guarantee the right windscreen is to have one ordered through the dealer. Even then, calibrating the Eye-Sight comes down to the replacement method. They need to replace any gel pads or adhesives used between the cameras and any other sensors the system uses. Fingers crossed they don't hit or knock the cameras when removing & refitting. The number of cars we see for a windscreen recalibration with poor workmanship or cameras requiring re-aiming ($45k of equipment needs to be ordered in) is horrific unfortunately... Could an option be you add windscreen cover to your policy now and hold out on the claim until the next WOF? For my 2c, I had a rear windscreen replaced by Smith & Smith (forget the branch) they used second hand glass, snapped the aerial wires off left hanging and left a lot of glass in the car. They refused to ever use second hand glass, and said they were not qualified or equipped to remove all the glass from within the boot... Their tune changed I had my insurance company involved...
  7. I would strongly suggest having your ballast checked (auto sparky), or swapping bulbs side to side to confirm you have a bulb issue. Also in case you didn't know, the HID system runs off around 24,000V so care is required when messing with the system at all Oh, and you wanna be careful with replacing bulbs individually. Each bulb has a different colour/temperature rating, in Kelvin. Most stock bulbs hover around the 4300K, closest to 'white light'. If you replace one bulb you may notice a colour difference between left/right lights
  8. Nachoooo

    Front guards on WRX

    Could one guard have been rolled and one not? Previous owner or part of the panel repair you mentioned previously?
  9. Sounds like the pov-spec 2.0L, mainly used for company/fleet/rental use unfortunately. Sure, they're no Legacy, but the higher trim diesel and incoming 2.5 turbo aren't a bad combo at all. The kit & safety features the new Mazda's come with, considering the price point is impressive. They definitely lack the refinement you get out of similar era BMW/Audi/Merc, but at half the price its unfair to compare Sorry, just read the 2.5L comment
  10. Despite that, ultimately it's at the inspectors discretion... The practical concern I see is a flooded market of cheaper LED's that don't have a discernible brightness difference between tail light and brake light functions. Whilst OSRAM and Philips are quality brands and make these claims, it's all how the bulb performs in the lamp itself in the real word day and night Save yourself the hassle, if the bulbs are safe take it for an inspection an see if they fail before doing all that work One argument is no 'warm-up' time compared to traditional filament bulbs where LED are instant on. We're talking miliseconds here but... Re runflats; That's gotta be one of the best mods you'll make for handling and road noise! What tyres have you gone with as replacement?
  11. Yeah what DRFVDR explained is true. Unfortunately it's all up to interpretation, no specific legislation for LED bars.. I had a chat with one of the NZTA WOF auditors about them, and he was not a fan at all. Rather annoying considering they're (LED bars) are a modern part, readily available and are being fitted more and more. It didn't sound like there were any long term plans to introduce some new specific ruling around them either... Frustrating really
  12. Light bars are a notoriously grey area. Perspectives go from all ranges for police and WOF inspectors... I failed my WOF with the light bar switched via high beam. To pass I just unplugged it. It is on a on/off/on switc either way. On whenever I want, off completely, and on via high beam. Regardless of what your WOF inspector rules, be aware that you might get a fussy cop who doesn't like seeing you using it either... use at your own risk really
  13. Pulled out and stripped an engine on a wagon to repair the blown head gaskets. Had my suspicions up as there were MLS (Multi Layer Steel) gaskets already fitted, indicating a previous repair job from the original composite pieces. What I found stripping the engine down wasn't ideal.. First part, they've put the inlet cam caps back to front, despite the screaming markings on them.. After removing the P/S head and gasket I found the culprit. You can see on the bottom RH corner of the LH combustion chamber where the compression was leaking out of the cylinder The gasket has cracked/split, not something I've come across before! More concerning was the corrosion along the outside of the cylinder wall...
  14. Some of my thoughts, Any of the VAG 3.0L TDI engines are a wall of torque, even more so tuned. Last gen Q7 could be an option, but they're pretty lacking nowadays. New model is rather nice, SQ7 is another level... B8 A4 S4 wagon? C7 A6? X3 We've an X3 35i at work lately, seemed nicely kitted out in similar trim to your old 535 wagon, similar age too. Might be an option. Diesels here seem alright too. X5 M50D anyone? Tri-turbo goodness? Evoque are refined inside but I found the 4 banger a little highly strung, I favour the smoothness and torque of a 6 cylinder specially with diesel, but that's just me...
  15. Don't think there are many if any others, I'm pretty new to the area myself. Easily tempted by a good drive somewhere!