• Announcements

    • ClubSUB.org.nz

      Mega Meet 2018 OUR 21st!   09/04/18

      We're turning 21! And we're celebrating on the weekend of the 12th & 13th of May 2018   Come join us Saturday and Sunday events including a FREE Lunch @ the Tui Brewery, Mangatanoka, for Subscribed forum members   A cruise after to the Karting Venue in Palmerston North   Following that Sunday is a Playday on Track event @ Manfeild    Join us for any one or ALL of the events & help get together to celebrate NZ's Largest & oldest online Subaru Community! ~ Joker


General Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

20 Neutral

About Nachoooo

  • Rank
    Forum Member

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    BH5 TS-R
    BP5 GT Spec B
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Apprentice Mechanic
  1. Don't think there are many if any others, I'm pretty new to the area myself. Easily tempted by a good drive somewhere!
  2. In the article they say from 96-04, and being a Canadian site, I'd say that covers BG/BD to BE/BH, in that their model years are quite far off ours and/or Japan's. I'd say it'd be worth investigating if there were any changes to the 4EAT in your BP9 from the BH era for a start
  3. Try the Allied pump at Upper Clutha Transport, when I left it was $2.08/L for 95...
  4. They've made a massive mistake there somewhere. Presuming they're factory brakes, 294mm rotors aren't anywhere near that price. Try again on monday with someone new or try BNT
  5. Things to be mindful of with BL/BP's; they wear lower control arm bushes (front), and wheel bearings can be a common and costly fault. For the 3.0L's the front idler pulley bearings (x2) can wear out, depends what stage you catch it out on as to what damage you're up for. Solid cars otherwise, really quite a step up from a BE/BH for sure! 3.0L with the 6MT is a fantastic car!
  6. I've had multiple success with it myself. Even had a face-lift with the throttle position graph on the cluster display, you could push the pedal with the graph rising, with no increase in revs. After a clean and reset and they were both back in sync. I'm not saying it's THE fix for every car with this problem but for the sake of $20 and some time, it's worth doing regardless.
  7. You would be surprised how much of a difference cleaning the throttle plate and resetting the ECU makes. It would seem models with the electronic throttle are prone to build up carbon around the plate edges, which results in you feeling a delay between the pedal and car. Take off the intake hose, clean up the plate, plate edges and surrounding intake with a can of upper cylinder clean, use the rest as directed. Then reset the ECU using a VAGCOM / Tactrix cable etc. You'll gain a fair bit of response back, however if you really want to adjust the proper calibration, a reflash is your best bet really, like Kiwi_Fozze and Marky suggested
  8. Should do. I've had varying success talking with BH era models using FreeSSM, better results with '01 onwards models
  9. Jaycar sell an LED relay https://www.jaycar.co.nz/relay-flasher-led-2-pin-univ-12v/p/SY4016
  10. See the difference? This bottom post on its on would've saved a page of sarcastic S***. Why bother?
  11. Fitted and wired in my light bar yesterday, super impressed considering the cost!
  12. RE002's for summer Michelin X-Ice for winter
  13. Basically, a LED bulb cannot utilize halogen reflector, so if you're gonna swap be ready to lose the majority of practical output from the fogs. Depending on what colour temperature (4300k vs 6000k etc) you get, it'll match the headlights and/or parkers. But yeah, you lose "fog lights" really.
  14. At a well educated guess it'll be a D2R 12V 35w
  15. +1 Haha. Interested to see the outcome too. I've seen another case where simply replacing the sensors was unsuccessful, 2005 3.0 outback, auto. Have you replaced the brake pedal switch yet?