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About Nachoooo

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  • Drives :
    BH5 TS-R
    BLE 3.0R Spec B - Sold
    BP5 GT Spec B - Sold
    BPE 3.0R Spec B
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  • Occupation
    Apprentice Mechanic

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  1. I would strongly suggest having your ballast checked (auto sparky), or swapping bulbs side to side to confirm you have a bulb issue. Also in case you didn't know, the HID system runs off around 24,000V so care is required when messing with the system at all Oh, and you wanna be careful with replacing bulbs individually. Each bulb has a different colour/temperature rating, in Kelvin. Most stock bulbs hover around the 4300K, closest to 'white light'. If you replace one bulb you may notice a colour difference between left/right lights
  2. Nachoooo

    Front guards on WRX

    Could one guard have been rolled and one not? Previous owner or part of the panel repair you mentioned previously?
  3. Sounds like the pov-spec 2.0L, mainly used for company/fleet/rental use unfortunately. Sure, they're no Legacy, but the higher trim diesel and incoming 2.5 turbo aren't a bad combo at all. The kit & safety features the new Mazda's come with, considering the price point is impressive. They definitely lack the refinement you get out of similar era BMW/Audi/Merc, but at half the price its unfair to compare Sorry, just read the 2.5L comment
  4. Despite that, ultimately it's at the inspectors discretion... The practical concern I see is a flooded market of cheaper LED's that don't have a discernible brightness difference between tail light and brake light functions. Whilst OSRAM and Philips are quality brands and make these claims, it's all how the bulb performs in the lamp itself in the real word day and night Save yourself the hassle, if the bulbs are safe take it for an inspection an see if they fail before doing all that work One argument is no 'warm-up' time compared to traditional filament bulbs where LED are instant on. We're talking miliseconds here but... Re runflats; That's gotta be one of the best mods you'll make for handling and road noise! What tyres have you gone with as replacement?
  5. Yeah what DRFVDR explained is true. Unfortunately it's all up to interpretation, no specific legislation for LED bars.. I had a chat with one of the NZTA WOF auditors about them, and he was not a fan at all. Rather annoying considering they're (LED bars) are a modern part, readily available and are being fitted more and more. It didn't sound like there were any long term plans to introduce some new specific ruling around them either... Frustrating really
  6. Light bars are a notoriously grey area. Perspectives go from all ranges for police and WOF inspectors... I failed my WOF with the light bar switched via high beam. To pass I just unplugged it. It is on a on/off/on switc either way. On whenever I want, off completely, and on via high beam. Regardless of what your WOF inspector rules, be aware that you might get a fussy cop who doesn't like seeing you using it either... use at your own risk really
  7. Pulled out and stripped an engine on a wagon to repair the blown head gaskets. Had my suspicions up as there were MLS (Multi Layer Steel) gaskets already fitted, indicating a previous repair job from the original composite pieces. What I found stripping the engine down wasn't ideal.. First part, they've put the inlet cam caps back to front, despite the screaming markings on them.. After removing the P/S head and gasket I found the culprit. You can see on the bottom RH corner of the LH combustion chamber where the compression was leaking out of the cylinder The gasket has cracked/split, not something I've come across before! More concerning was the corrosion along the outside of the cylinder wall...
  8. Some of my thoughts, Any of the VAG 3.0L TDI engines are a wall of torque, even more so tuned. Last gen Q7 could be an option, but they're pretty lacking nowadays. New model is rather nice, SQ7 is another level... B8 A4 S4 wagon? C7 A6? X3 We've an X3 35i at work lately, seemed nicely kitted out in similar trim to your old 535 wagon, similar age too. Might be an option. Diesels here seem alright too. X5 M50D anyone? Tri-turbo goodness? Evoque are refined inside but I found the 4 banger a little highly strung, I favour the smoothness and torque of a 6 cylinder specially with diesel, but that's just me...
  9. Don't think there are many if any others, I'm pretty new to the area myself. Easily tempted by a good drive somewhere!
  10. In the article they say from 96-04, and being a Canadian site, I'd say that covers BG/BD to BE/BH, in that their model years are quite far off ours and/or Japan's. I'd say it'd be worth investigating if there were any changes to the 4EAT in your BP9 from the BH era for a start
  11. Try the Allied pump at Upper Clutha Transport, when I left it was $2.08/L for 95...
  12. They've made a massive mistake there somewhere. Presuming they're factory brakes, 294mm rotors aren't anywhere near that price. Try again on monday with someone new or try BNT
  13. Things to be mindful of with BL/BP's; they wear lower control arm bushes (front), and wheel bearings can be a common and costly fault. For the 3.0L's the front idler pulley bearings (x2) can wear out, depends what stage you catch it out on as to what damage you're up for. Solid cars otherwise, really quite a step up from a BE/BH for sure! 3.0L with the 6MT is a fantastic car!
  14. I've had multiple success with it myself. Even had a face-lift with the throttle position graph on the cluster display, you could push the pedal with the graph rising, with no increase in revs. After a clean and reset and they were both back in sync. I'm not saying it's THE fix for every car with this problem but for the sake of $20 and some time, it's worth doing regardless.
  15. You would be surprised how much of a difference cleaning the throttle plate and resetting the ECU makes. It would seem models with the electronic throttle are prone to build up carbon around the plate edges, which results in you feeling a delay between the pedal and car. Take off the intake hose, clean up the plate, plate edges and surrounding intake with a can of upper cylinder clean, use the rest as directed. Then reset the ECU using a VAGCOM / Tactrix cable etc. You'll gain a fair bit of response back, however if you really want to adjust the proper calibration, a reflash is your best bet really, like Kiwi_Fozze and Marky suggested