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      Mega Meet 2018 OUR 21st!   09/04/18

      We're turning 21! And we're celebrating on the weekend of the 12th & 13th of May 2018   Come join us Saturday and Sunday events including a FREE Lunch @ the Tui Brewery, Mangatanoka, for Subscribed forum members   A cruise after to the Karting Venue in Palmerston North   Following that Sunday is a Playday on Track event @ Manfeild    Join us for any one or ALL of the events & help get together to celebrate NZ's Largest & oldest online Subaru Community! ~ Joker


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About Zeus

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  1. Ps that's not me on your trademe auction q&a 

  2. What area you in man? I've got a engine crane
  3. Yes, you need to bleed out the old fluid from the lives while putting in the new stuff to actually make a difference
  4. Wouldn't worry about skimming the rotors, maybe check the pads before buying new ones to see how meaty they are, definitely replace your brake fluid though. It's cheap enough and easy to do
  5. New brake fluid too
  6. You're right about that quality, looked mint. Can you get external microphones for them and relocate them?
  7. Yeah those spacers might help get the angle correct again. Tbh the other style is a better link as the two ends pivot like a ball joint which puts less stress on the whole thing, what you choose to you is your choice of coarse, just giving you an option
  8. Those are for steel arms not alloy, they'd listed it wrong. Those are what you want, you can get them from bnt cheap enough. Once you replace the fronts you'll be fine
  9. Um wrong front links bud
  10. Tbh you don't need to use one, 10mm bolts require so little tension. I see people up there that the recommended setting is 18nm, you'd have to buy a small 1/4" torque wrench for that and they aren't cheap. You just need to learn to be sensible when tightening small bolts and nuts (such as suspension tophat nuts) and do them with a 1/4" socket just tight enough. I bought a parts car recently and the rear tophat nuts were so tight I had to use a 3/8" breaker bar to loosen them, and whoever put them on also managed to snap one of the studs, so one strut only had 2 studs holding it in place! Muppets
  11. So they are for earlier Gen subarus? (90s era)
  12. When it comes to "professional" installation, you really only get what you pay for. If you want them to remove your dash to bury the module and incorporate its wiring into your factory looming that'll cost a whole lot more money as it takes a lot of time.
  13. 5 star merely means the car has 2 immobilizers and a battery back up siren (and they're not even half as loud as a standard siren). Nothing will stop a smash and grab or a tow. As for lock nuts, I recently bought a car that had one on each wheel and I didn't have the correct socker for them. Took maybe an extra minute to get all 4 of them off.
  14. The only guarantee you have when it comes to theives is theft insurance. Gone are the days of the simpleton smashing a window and hot wiring the car for a speedy getaway. These guys literally do it for a living, if they want it they'll take it, pure and simple. No amount of alarms, switches, disconnected circuits or anti thrift equipment will stop them. A friends wrx got stolen from a train station in broad daylight, it was alarmed with immobilizers and a steering wheel lock, police closed the case a few short days in due to lack of evidence and leads. Cc tv at the station wasn't even useful enough to id anyone or anything. Insure it, you at least get a small some of money back, because you'll never see the car again.