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Announcements
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ClubSUB 2018 Calendar is now avilable! 24/09/17
Click here for more info!
The 2018 ClubSUB Calendar, Powered by Possum Borne Motorsport is now available.
12 Hand picked full colour photos, taken by menbers, submitted by members and chosen by members.
All vehicles in the calendar are owned by members of the NZ Subaru Enthusiasts community.
A massive thanks to the team at PBMS for coming on board for another year!
This is a very sought after calendar and only available for a limited time.
Also, if you are a subscribed member of ClubSUB, you will be in for a descent discount, so make sure you're logged in.
Please note, as these are printed to order, shipping will be delayed. we will make 3 orders, October 30th, November 27th, and December 11th. If you dont order intime to make one of these shipping dates, we will get it out to you in the new year.
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Zeus
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What area you in man? I've got a engine crane
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Yes, you need to bleed out the old fluid from the lives while putting in the new stuff to actually make a difference
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Wouldn't worry about skimming the rotors, maybe check the pads before buying new ones to see how meaty they are, definitely replace your brake fluid though. It's cheap enough and easy to do
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New brake fluid too
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You're right about that quality, looked mint. Can you get external microphones for them and relocate them?
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Yeah those spacers might help get the angle correct again. Tbh the other style is a better link as the two ends pivot like a ball joint which puts less stress on the whole thing, what you choose to you is your choice of coarse, just giving you an option
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Those are for steel arms not alloy, they'd listed it wrong. Those are what you want, you can get them from bnt cheap enough. Once you replace the fronts you'll be fine
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Um wrong front links bud
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Tbh you don't need to use one, 10mm bolts require so little tension. I see people up there that the recommended setting is 18nm, you'd have to buy a small 1/4" torque wrench for that and they aren't cheap. You just need to learn to be sensible when tightening small bolts and nuts (such as suspension tophat nuts) and do them with a 1/4" socket just tight enough. I bought a parts car recently and the rear tophat nuts were so tight I had to use a 3/8" breaker bar to loosen them, and whoever put them on also managed to snap one of the studs, so one strut only had 2 studs holding it in place! Muppets
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That clints place?
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So they are for earlier Gen subarus? (90s era)
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When it comes to "professional" installation, you really only get what you pay for. If you want them to remove your dash to bury the module and incorporate its wiring into your factory looming that'll cost a whole lot more money as it takes a lot of time.
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5 star merely means the car has 2 immobilizers and a battery back up siren (and they're not even half as loud as a standard siren). Nothing will stop a smash and grab or a tow. As for lock nuts, I recently bought a car that had one on each wheel and I didn't have the correct socker for them. Took maybe an extra minute to get all 4 of them off.
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The only guarantee you have when it comes to theives is theft insurance. Gone are the days of the simpleton smashing a window and hot wiring the car for a speedy getaway. These guys literally do it for a living, if they want it they'll take it, pure and simple. No amount of alarms, switches, disconnected circuits or anti thrift equipment will stop them. A friends wrx got stolen from a train station in broad daylight, it was alarmed with immobilizers and a steering wheel lock, police closed the case a few short days in due to lack of evidence and leads. Cc tv at the station wasn't even useful enough to id anyone or anything. Insure it, you at least get a small some of money back, because you'll never see the car again.
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Pm a photo
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