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IZichard last won the day on July 14

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About IZichard

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  • Drives :
    2000 GGB STi Wagon
    1999 GC8 WRX
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  1. Yeah after reading a little more about it that does sound like a better solution. I'll probably pick one up in the future, cheers for the recommendation.
  2. Just the one channel, I thought the rear camera would annoy me in the rearview. The front one I can hide behind the mirror. Just coming on with ignition at this stage but i'm thinking of a battery pack in the future. I live in a pretty safe area and park right outside work during the day so there isn't much risk of something happening while i'm not around. Yeah I went for the wifi over a cam with a crappy little screen as it seemed like it would be much easier to use.
  3. Picked up a dashcam for the Wagon. Went with the Blackview DR590w. I'm pretty happy with the quality of everything, I haven't looked at any of the footage yet. I'll probably hide the wiring under the dash this weekend.
  4. It is possible to make an HKS turbo timer work with an alarm if the alarm is compatible with turbo timers. It depends on the model of alarm how the alarm and turbo timer need to be setup to function properly. I have both an alarm and hks turbo timer in my STi. The if the turbo timer is set you can lock the car with the remote, it will keep running until the timer runs out then the alarm will fully arm. If someone were to open the door while the timer was running the car immediately shuts off and the alarm sounds. I would recommend finding the model of alarm you have installed and reading the manual for it. Does the HKS actually power on with the ignition, but won't keep the car running when the key is removed? Here is the wiring diagram for the turbo timer if it helps.
  5. My v7 STi wagon has been intermittently doing a similar thing, it will crank for 5-6 seconds before it actually sparks and fires. Like you said I always prime the fuel pump beforehand but it makes no difference. In my case I tried experimenting with cam and crank sensors since i thought it may be a sync issue but that did not help. It seems like the ecu is not sending an injection or spark signal until it has been cranking for quite a while. My car does it really intermittently (maybe once a month) so it has been difficult for me to diagnose. I did wonder if I had a leaky injector that was causing it to flood when shut of and only clear after cranking for a while. Sorry I don’t have an answer for you but I’m very interested to hear if you find anything.
  6. Use either a normally-closed or a change-over relay. This should be it for a change over relay: 30 power feed (fused ign, able to suppport the load of the lights) 85 park light positive feed 86 earth 87a positive output to DRL 87 unused. You may have to swap 87 and 87a, I can’t remember which way the relay rests.
  7. The STi wagon already has the larger rear handbrake shoes. The standard brembo rotors go straight on.
  8. Factory v8 STi scoop IIRC The driveway lineup
  9. Yeah the JDM bugeye wrx came in either an ‘NA’ or ‘NB’ The NA was a non turbo wrx similar to the srx of the gc8 era. As boon said it had better seats, wrx struts and maybe a couple other upgrades but yeah the non turbo bonnet with wrx badging was a factory thing. Edit: http://a15ff11300g.sakura.ne.jp/catalogue/GD.GGimpreza/2000.8 new age impreza WRX/2000.8 new age impreza WRX.html
  10. I figured out the weird single wire switching door locks on my Wagon and wired in a door lock/unlock remote and also some funky immobilisation that I won’t be specific about. I also received a Fenix alloy “race” radiator. The stock one still holds pressure and maintains temp but it looks old and tired. I had a premonition that it was going to explode on the way up the ski field this season and leave me stranded. I doubt the Fenix will perform any better as the car never got hot before but it will be nice to not have 19 year old plastic radiator in there.
  11. If the trailer plug wiring was the culprit it would have blown the tail light fuse. So if the fuse is still ok, I wouldn’t carry on down that path. Are you sure what you are experiencing isn’t just the normal dimming of the interior lights when you turn the headlights on like Joker mentioned. If this was an electrical issue then would almost certainly be a blown fuse. If not it would be a loss of power/ground circuit to the cluster (ie broken wire, or something unplugged). If you can confirm power/ground at the back of the cluster for the illumination wires and it still doesn’t work then the cluster is faulty (unlikely). That is the thought path I would follow anyway.
  12. Do your tail lights work? Try checking the tail light fuse. Does the car have a towbar? Potentially could be a short in bad trailer wiring.