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Everything posted by Niran

  1. Auckland Fam! I haven't seen an Auckland thread created yet. But who is heading down from Aucks and when? Would be awesome to get a convoy going. I'm thinking of leaving Friday after work or maybe even take half a day? @B1G BNG @Subirex Automotive @Invisible @BeastGRB
  2. @Gripless common mate. Just take half day Friday
  3. Probs earliest i'll do is a half day - so leave around 1pm? I'll most likely work from home. Am based in Papakura. Could meet at the Drury just after the Papakura station around 1pm if that works for everyone?
  4. Yes! Awesome @Subirex Automotive Need to figure out accommodation too
  5. I got my new headers heat wrapped. Hopefully they last. Seems like they are performing well
  6. @Dre yeah had a read through a few times. It doesn't have anything in there about fail safes though aye. Some pretty cool features though!
  7. Hi guys. Wanting to find out a bit more about what sensors our factory STIs come with off the bat. In particular for the new 2011 GVB models. Do they come with: Oil temperature Oil pressure Fuel pressure From the googling I've been doing, there appears to be an oil pressure sensor under the alternator? If so, surely its wired into the ECU right? Otherwise what is its purpose? The end goal here is to be able to tune fail safes into the factory ECU without messing around with aftermarket gauges and control units etc. Even if I can just get a fail safe for oil pressure into the factory ECU I'll be a happy man. Anyone got any ideas? @Pappu1 @gotasuby
  8. Yeah bro Ecutek hopefully
  9. How would you go about doing this bro? Seems like the best option
  10. Awesome meeting you today @Gripless
  11. Been thinking about this recently while planning for my FMIC setup. Why are cold side pipes larger than hot side pipes? Let's use my build as an example: - Turbo compressor outlet: 2" - Intake manifold inlet: 2.75" - FMIC inlet / outlet: 2.75" Sizing of the above is obviously a big influencing factor, but why would cold side pipes be bigger? Isn't the science that hot air is less dense and takes up more space? Therefore after being chilled through the intercooler, the space required for that same volume of air should be less, because it's more dense? I.e larger cold side pipes could cause lag because air velocity is now slower due to the bigger pipe diameter. Smaller hot side pipes make sense. Lastly what would you do in my application? 2" pipe from turbo to core, or have a transition somewhere in between or at the turbo even. Seen 2.25" on many intercooler kits. Likewise with the cold side, 2.75" from core to inlet or step it down?
  12. After delving into this topic in much detail on my build. I'd recommend looking into the fin density before you buy a core. Ideally you'd want staggered or offset dense fins that will really disrupt and then cool the charge. ETS, Process west all have proven results and there's pics to prove the fin density. Others are a bit hit and miss imo. Some of the cheaper ones like HDI and even some of the cheaper Chinese stuff for sale here in nz seem to have good dense fins which could work well also. Personally don't think the mishimoto cores are great. And the Perrin ones look awesome but aren't as dense as the ets or process west ones. Despite being soooooo pricey. Havent managed to get a pic of the cobb core fins yet, but I'd take a wild guess and say similar to Perrin. Just stay away from the stuff that is basically straight through with no offset or staggered fins.
  13. Hey all. Who's going to this? Reasonably keen to head down if we get a crew going
  14. Man i double booked myself prior and now can't make it sadly. Also still don't have my car back
  15. What about for insurance purposes after though? If the crash beam is not there once you've put the bigger intercooler back in ?
  16. Its a got a pretty neat control unit that lets you control when the spray comes on etc. Think it has a start setting, and setting for when its fully on.
  17. I had 255kw and kinda got used to it. Albeit in the heavier GVB chassis. Maybe think about water / meth? Got 20 extra kw on my setup with it. And probably cheaper than a full turbo setup Re the spool thing. Yeah its all personal preference, but there is some truth to what Boon is saying. Its all about building for where your powerband is going to be. I knowingly sacrificed maybe 1000rpm of spool on my build for a bigger turbo, but at the same time put in bigger cams and valve springs and gained 1000rpm of power band up high by being able to rev to 8k instead of 6.5k-7k. Assuming my stock turbo didn't run out of chuff by 6500rpm (which it definitely did before that point), I've simply moved my full powerband up a little and got a whole lot more usable power. I thought long and hard about getting the smaller quicker spooling EFR7163. But end of the day, i'm only really sacrificing maybe 1000rpm of spool in 1st gear. After that its basically going to be an animal between changes (on paper anyway ). All in all its hard to gauge anything like this until you actually drive and feel the response or lack of. My old setup was incredibly responsive and torquey down low. Will report back when this thing is going as a good comparison
  18. @Username i think the tuners not going over 25 psi thing is due to factory 2 bar map sensors. Cant run any higher unless you get a bigger map sensor
  19. Wow that's amazing to hear @Username! If yours are 1.5inch runners, then the diameter is the same as my OEM ones (38mm). I'll be .83 ar on a Borg Warner efr7670. This should be very interesting! Hopefully have some results in the next couple weeks
  20. Love the detail @pl0x! Are those stock heads? Could that be the limitation to flow here?
  21. @Username just curious to know. What headers did you use to achieve this power level? Stock or aftermarket? @gotasuby appears to have got near the 400kw mark on OEM legacy headers which is dam impressive! I'm hoping to achieve 350kw off the single scroll OEM headers / upipe into a rotated setup on my v11. Pipe ID is 38mm from memory so hopefully will be the ideal mix of good air flow and velocity!
  22. Its my first time doing a full engine and turbo build. Not too sure about the benefits of solid/braided etc etc water and oil lines apart from looking pretty and being expensive as. I want a reliable and tidy setup - what is necessary to make this happen? Sinco recommenced these fittings and lines: -Speedflow braided turbo feed -6 pushlok water lines -Oil drain-Solid line past manifold into -10 pushlok hose onto block I am no expert with this stuff at all. Is a solid drain line important to have? Should i be running braided lines for all water and oil lines? Thinking i could go to speedflow and get all the bits myself if that made it cheaper, but need to know what to get!
  23. Yup completely agree. @boon I had a chat with GSS performance and they have speedflow AN fittings and braided lines all in stock so can get it from them. So you're saying go braided over any hard lines? I was moving away from going hard lines as they sound complex and seem to be prone to expansion issues etc. which if not done right could be a recipe for disaster. GSS recommended if i'm running a drain line near any of the exhaust manifold / upipe etc, would need proper heat wrapping to shield it.
  24. It really depends on what your car is tuned for. If you were tuned on fully 98 pump gas, it really shouldn't make much of a difference if its mobile or BP. Gull force 10 has 10% ethanol - ethanol has a cooling effect on the charge before combustion so a tuner (only when tuned on this fuel) can potentially push more timing and get a little more power out of this fuel. Its the same principle as e85. You're not going to notice a whole lot at lower power levels on E10, but the gains will be larger the higher up you go. Putting Gull force 10 in a BP98 tuned will make it run less ideally and vice versa - im guessing this is where the conflicting opinions come about. Key is (from my experience), getting you vehicle tuned for a certain type of fuel and sticking with it.
  25. I'll be there! Dark grey GVB STI