Omsin

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Everything posted by Omsin

  1. What does his even mean, I got the letter a few weeks ago but haven’t called them yet lol
  2. A lot better, it actually isn't hard to strip the car apart, I think it could be done in an hour if you know how stuff comes apart. The tedious part is cutting and laying out the sound deadening, but could be done in a single day if you're committed. I'm thinking of going over it again with the foam from Jay Car just to make it even quieter again haha, just need to touch up some parts in the boot because I ran out.. turns out you need a lot more than a 6mx45cm roll - probably closer to 10m x45cm required.
  3. Oil dilutes the octane rating. Oil is actually more like a dense vapor, instead of clean air mixing with fuel you have a oily vapor burning with fuel. Remove the oil, you now have clean air - cleaner burn. HOWEVER, if the car no longer sees / sense's the oil vapour then your car should be using more fuel to compensate? - you may need to reset the car so you have a fresh base for the car to calibrate from? I guess it depends how the ECU is set, it may account for some oil vapor in the AFR calibration due to the PCV setup from factory
  4. Finally got my order from the US to ceramic coat my car, should help keep all the road spray crap off when it rains 👌🏼
  5. Stripped the car down for more sound deadening: Added some foam on top of the transmission tunnel too (didn’t photograph it)
  6. Pretty much any aftermarket spline drive nut. Also sucks when tyre shops / mechanics use a impact gun to take them off, strips off paint 10 times worse than that. You literally have to tell people who work on your car to be careful with your s***. expensive wheels and they treat them like steelies
  7. So my gf thinks I spend too much time on the car and she gave me an ultimatum... her or the car... at first I was skeptical, I thought I might have needed a bigger sunroof! But she went out without a problem 😏 If you find yourself in the same predicament I think the button is in the same general area, somewhere under the steering column labeled “ejecto seat”
  8. Don’t worry, won’t be an issue until you go for a wof and when that’s due - TRACK CAR TIME
  9. Jaycar stuff is quite expensive for the amount you get, would pararubber have the right kind of foam?
  10. I doubt that is 22mm, not even the sti has that in the rear, 19mm off the top of my head would sound more accurate. The 22mm whiteline has adjustable preset mounting points which effectively make the bar stiffer or softer depending on which mounting hole you use, if you wanted to futureproof you could go for an adjustable 24mm bar, I think it’s 1mm up or down for a three hole setup. Adjustable endlinks are a must
  11. This doesn't exactly count for today, but tomorrow I'm taking apart my interior again for more sound deadening. I've got another 6mx45cm roll of what is essentially thicker dynamat. Any recommendations on where I should focus on most / what areas I shouldn't waste my time with? I'm thinking of doing the boot / rear wheel wells (exhaust isn't loud so I don't care about that noise) and seeing how close I can get to the front wheel wells to eliminate as much road noise as possible. After doing the doors the noise has definitely been amplified / drawn my attention to how much noise there is coming through from under the car. I'm assuming it would be pointless to do under the rear passenger seats as they are quite dense / full of foam anyway. To offset the weight of the sound deadening I'm ditching my spare tyre (its useless anyway because my cars lowered)
  12. Quick note, make sure whatever you stick in the doors doesn't absorb moisture, a lot of water gets in between the internal and external door skin
  13. Most of the noise comes from the floor / wheel wells, but dampening the doors does give the speakers more punch as less energy is wasted resonating / vibrating the crappy sheet metal. I did my doors and noticed a good increase in sound from the speakers, it has however highlighted just how much noise comes from the floor / tyres tho. I have a 2011 WRX with the premium sound system, may be a different story for older base models with paper speakers. If you want the best bang for buck then middle of the road speakers with new wiring and an amplifier should set you on the right path,running speakers off just the head unit does not even come close to reaching the potential of most speakers. Sound deadening can be done for $140 on all doors and a days labor
  14. Whiteline adjustable sway bars are good for dialing in the balance of understeer / oversteer. i got 22mm front and rear on my WRX sedan, I found the best setting was hard front (two holes) and hard rear (three holes), off the top of my head it effectively made the front 22.5mm and the rear 23mm I think. On stock springs this setup was great, progressive oversteer and could feel the car hook right when the car transitioned it’s weight from left to right and vice versa. lowering the car on coilovers didn’t do as much as the sway bar kit, I actually had to adjust the dampening (softer) to get more feel out of the car. Stock suspension was soft as hell but seemed to work great with upgraded sway bars. i imagine a heavier forester would be the same but more dramatically improved
  15. The Bose headunit / speakers in my old 350Z were a 2ohm System, I left the front speakers in place and changed the headunit which was designed to run 4ohm (didn’t have any issues). less ohms means more power!!! 😆😆😆 It’s not so much that they will sound like s***, it just “might” or “have potential” to overheat your headunit amp, but the fact your headunit won’t be working as hard (less ohms = less load) it may not be an issue. I would upgrade the speaker cable in any case just to play it safe, the stuff they use is ridiculously thin.
  16. Some faults cause the car to go into sport mode - happened when I had CEL due to a fault with a secondary air pump on my 07 STI. That or they went for a joy ride, I’ve seen some interesting stuff on my dash cam from workshop techs going for a “test drive”. high resistance could be signs of a bad connection, corrosion, loose plug. Shorts are usually very low resistance / blown unit
  17. Literally any speaker you can buy would be better than this, just make sure you buy the right size and get a mounting adapter for your car. If you have a little bit of money to spend then make sure you look at RMS W and not total / max W (watts). Also for front speakers you would want components, and 1 or 2 way in the rear. Quite common for cheaper speakers to be over hyped with a high max w or 3 or 4 way output speakers (max W doesn't translate to good quality sound) and 3+ way speakers have less punch and more sharp piercing / tinny noise, basically too much going on. Long story short, if you just want a cheap replacement and don't plan to spend much on the sound system then a trip to supercheap for some basic speakers will be fine, just don't get sold on the massive spec sheet from sony with their 400w 3 way speakers :p p.s, the cheapest place for car audio is Trademe, there are a few small audio shops who sell there with low margins compared to larger companies.
  18. I don't think you would get the rumble from a non turbo smaller displacement motor, cheapest and easiest thing to do for sound is a cat back exhaust
  19. Not sure about the NA cars but when I reset my WRX it drives slow as hell, like its in limp mode so I'm not sure if spirited driving would be ideal as the car is trying to adjust itself and I've heard it puts your car at risk of knock etc while it hasn't set ideal parameters. Driving mode for NA only adjusts throttle response I think, so S would be the better mode as "I" has less throttle/more conservative and S# over reacts to throttle input
  20. Cusco? 100% take it off and gearbox vibration will most likely stop. I bought one and took it off two weeks later because it sounded like rod knock in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear. Shifts great but I hated the sound / vibration. It basically allows the engine and gearbox frequency to resonate through the firewall because it’s 99% metal with no dampening (aka rubber bushes)
  21. Have you checked the gearbox transmission mount? Sometimes the rubber breaks off the metal casing and lets the the tranny move around a lot more. Also just a side note, if you have a upgraded pitch stop mount you will get a lot of extra noise and vibration / feedback from the transmission. Other than that people have had success with changing the fluid. If all of the above has already been checked, good luck with the tranny repair
  22. Took the rear tray off to get to the bottom of the seriously annoying rattles, I’ll upload a video later on. Awesome cost saving measures - more bare metal! After getting foil cuts on most of my fingers (roller hasn’t arrived yet) this is the finished product: Added adhesive foam where plastic was obviously touching metal and sound deadening on key metal points to stop vibration. Being me tho I decided it wasn’t good enough and went a bit further... The plastic bash clips don’t actually sit tightly in most of the trim pieces and the plugs which clip in on the tray rattle like f$ck so I hot glued them all in place and added a bit of sound deadening to the pillar trims to help absorb excess vibration. Tray now sits nice and tight, doesn’t wobble, doesn’t creak or rattle... well done Subaru, you’ve shown just how lazy you are when it comes to finishing off cars
  23. Fuel filters were like a pre 2000 thing weren’t they? Every car I’ve owned in the last decade has been 2005 or newer and the fuel filters haven’t been replaceable (so I’ve been told). Usually as long as you don’t run the fuel down to the reserves the filter shouldn’t suck up too much crap
  24. Yes but not to the same extent, I did rectangle cut outs spaced along where I could reach, I did do a solid square directly behind the speakers and around the back for the speaker mounting points
  25. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/listing-2260819818.htm?rsqid=01cf88ad46944e02ad7a455a23022c2d-001