Omsin

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Everything posted by Omsin

  1. They hiked up their shipping prices not too long ago
  2. I had my recall done for this last week. I believe all they do is replace a relay as the relays in certain cars had the problem of not turning off which means the pump would stay on and potentially burn out
  3. Got mine sorted yesterday
  4. Shipping is about $250 but they can fit 2-3 lips per package if you want to do small group buys. Trouble is then that the combined packages exceeds the customs allowance and the whole order is charged 15% tax and import fees of around $60
  5. while the width doesn’t really matter too much, 9.5+ Kiwami are deep concave, below 9.5 is medium concave, 7.5 would be very low concave which would also play a part in clearing the face of the brakes. i would say the issue is more the offset. i had 9.5 +38 which cleared brembos with a little bit of extra clearance. if you need to you can get a small spacer worse case scenario
  6. If you’re basically never going to the track then I wouldn’t say you intend to track. People take stock cars to the track and don’t have issues, even aftermarket coilovers intended for the street can attend track days with no issues. When people say “track” more often than not it’s not an actual track day, it’s a non racing / play day on a track - 10-20min sessions. When a manufacturer or equivalent hears you say track days, they assume you mean full on racing with subjecting the car to a lot of repetitive abuse for extended amounts of time. i have 6/6 on my Wrx and I would say it’s pretty stiff, I wouldn’t want it any stiffer for a daily driver ( I could probably soften my damping more if I had slightly stiffer springs tho). Factory STI suspension is only around 5 I believe
  7. I mentioned the act in regards to providing services, not in regards to selling a product. The same basic principles around selling a product that’s fit for purpose etc applies to a business providing a “service”. That could a tradesman building a “new” deck or someone removing your “old” house for transport. If they f*** it up and it’s because of negligence then they haven’t provided a fair or expected level of service. Automotive example, a mechanic charges you $1000 to fix your car. You drive home and 5minutes down the road you discover it’s got the same fault. He’s charged you $1000 to replace the wrong part and you still need to fix the problem. Easier scenario, car shop strips / cross threads your lug nuts putting your wheels back on. In my case I made the shop replace my studs because they over tightened them
  8. The best setup I’ve had the pleasure of owning was 17x8 and 17x9 on my old R34 Skyline, fitment with a large sidewall never looked perfect but it gripped and went over bumps well. All I did with suspension was a set of Tein springs on stock struts too. 19x9.5 and 10.5 on my 350Z was surprisingly good but I think that’s down to the design of the body and rwd. The WRX is a long and fairly soft chassis design which awkwardly rolls it weight around in stock form. but yeah, like I said I got these wheels second hand so I didn’t get to choose ideal specs (also not much choice for second hand 5x100 wheels). Looking at Re003 Potenzas in the correct size
  9. I bought the wheels used with the tyres already fitted (off a slammed S-GT lmao), trust me i think stretched tyres look ghetto AF and I'm all about square well fitted wheels 😁 I understand physics, although i can't explain it - i know flex is good on a tyre (not to say you should get the softest tyre you can find, its within reason)
  10. Pretty flat looking at the car, I've had a few wheel alignments over the last few months and I've gone over it a few times regarding a more sport oriented setup - apparently the alignment is to factory spec and "any changes are just going to chew through tyres" - that was when I was asking if they could zero the front toe as opposed to them being slightly positive to compensate for the wheels wanting to push backwards at speed. Does make sense now thinking about the camber, the tyres are wearing faster on the outside edges. What's a good number for front camber? I don't want to lose too much straight line stability @Andy_Mac
  11. I've spent the last few weeks fine tuning the sway bar vs coilover settings, I've even gone so far as to play around with the tyre pressures based on the wear I was starting to see I've finally found the sweet spot with the coilovers, sway bars and tyre pressures. (i think). Front: Sway Bar: 22.5mm Coilover Damping: Medium/soft, Tyres: 40 PSI Rear: Sway Bar: 22mm, Damping: Firm/medium, Tyres: 38PSI I still have one last gripe, its that it feels like my front tyres are trying to roll under the rim on flat or off camber corners (basically any corners which don't promote grip). Could it be that I need to lower the car more? I had initially set the ride height lower but after a lot of online research I found that its better for these cars to sit at stock ride height or in my case a 10-20mm drop (basically the stock ride height of an STI is ideal). BUT I have the Whiteline roll centre kit so would I need to lower my car more to offset the raise of roll centre in the front? (I had't fine tuned everything when I first lowered the car so i'm not sure how it would compare). The only other thing I can think of is the 225/40 tyres on my 9.5" wide 18" wheels, I am looking at 255/35 or 265/35 tyres soon. I should also have STI front lower control arms and an ALK for them coming soon. Anyway, thoughts? leave ride height alone or lower it a tad more or wait until I have proper size tyres on?
  12. I see... There is the consumer guarantees act or fair trading act, which no matter what you sign and what a service provider says, cannot be opted out of. I think if you could somehow prove they provided inadequate service or incompetence (aka they f***ed up a setting or whatever) then they would be liable. I wouldn't know where to start if it happened to me but there must be something you could do if it was in fact the tuners fault. More reason to stick with reputable shops!!!
  13. What happens in this situation? Car blows up while being tuned?
  14. Do you have the little security key to turn the module off? Turn the security key on the unit off / on Wait for the immobiliser to turn on (solid blue light) Disarm immobiliser using alarm remote. Lock and unlock the car using factory key. Once unlocked with factory key then arm with the alarm remote. When I take my battery out I have to play around with the alarm when it goes back in. Because the alarm remote won’t lock or unlock the doors. Resetting the alarm module with the security key and then syncing the central locking with the alarm remote works for me
  15. Looks way too glossy for high temp paint, coats might be too thick or is the paint not dry yet? You’ll get a more uniform finish if you start with light coats and then go a little bit heavier once you’ve got something for the paint to build up on, definitely need to allow time between coats for it set though. You could try using a sanding block over the Subaru wording if you want some contrast? Raw metal on black
  16. It was a few years ago now, its one of those insurance companies that car dealers use to give you "instant" cover when you drive off their car yard, you then have a week to arrange your own cover - their whole policy fitted on one piece of A4 paper haha. I've been with AMI, they usually go the extra mile. I have the email address and phone number of a claims manager if you want to talk to someone a bit higher up who has more of an idea of what to do. (PM me). You mentioned that the offender went to Hoyt's and bought tickets - if they used an eftpos or debit card then you have all the information their to identify them along with visual confirmation with the security camera. Your insurance company should be able to apply for the necessary paperwork to have that footage and card holder information released
  17. Full lock turns is usually how you check for stuffed axles / cv joints - they will do it regardless of temp tho as its a mechanical thing (sloppy joint). I'm just thinking out loud, could be your clutch? aka low speed, full lock - would be closer to stalling, more load on the drive-train turning at full lock etc. When did you last change the tranny / diff fluid? (transaxle?). I sometimes get a very slight clunking sound when I reverse in full lock out of my driveway (cold) but I think thats the AWD system and loose gravel coming into play (trying to get traction). You can jack the car up and spin the wheels to feel/hear play in the bearings and c.v's etc How many km's are on the car? Last idea is that it could be the power steering perhaps - lots of things make similar noises haha
  18. The important part here is that hoyts have the card number of the offender and it can be tracked down that way. It's not so much a case of looking at a face and investigating. It's a case of accessing personal information held on an individual but protected under the privacy act. Registration details are protected under the privacy act but insurance companies can access that information. What you can do is go through the small claims court, but you would need to make sure that information at Hoyts won't be lost and is stored for you. But again, your insurance company should be doing this for you, I would kick up a fuss with your insurance company. You do not have to pay an excess for a claim if you can provide information identifying the other party for your insurance company to hold them accountable, your insurance company should be putting in the leg work for you, thats what you pay them for. I had an issue a few years ago with someone who provided a fake number and address at the scene of an accident they caused. My insurance company asked me to pay an excess at the end of the repair and i refused, saying i had identified the other driver and passed on all the information for them to use to seek payment from the other person. It turned out the number was disconnected, the address was vacant - insurance never got a reply or was able to talk to the other guy. Because of this they couldn't confirm he was at fault because he didn't provide his side of the story or accept my version of events. In my policy however it clearly stated that my insurance company only needed to establish who the other party was to dismiss payment of an excess if i believed i wasn't at fault. In their email trail to me they said they had established who the other party was but couldn't get hold of them - bingo, no excess ( i had to point that out lol). Long story short, fight your insurance company. They are lazy f***ers who just want your money, but they work for you. There is an insurance overseer who can help with disputes if you believe your insurer isn't providing adequate service and you want to take it further. If it was as easy as just ignoring the law to get away with a crime then the world would be f***ed, people are just lazy and you have to fight to get s*** done when stuff like this happens (police dont care, insurance passes the buck). You can report a non injury accident, it doesn't mean police have to investigate but you do need a reference number from police so when insurance talks to them there is a paper trail to work with. Usually you tick a box saying "no i dont want police to investigate with the intent of laying charges", you tick the box saying it is an insurance matter or some s***, its a technicality more than anything - without it insurance can't talk to police
  19. Small claims court, pay fee - take a court date. Present your case, including itemised quotes (more than one). The judge takes a few days to think about the case, response is mailed to you. Once awarded payment etc you can get it enforced at your local court house / dispute tribunal. Sometimes the defendant will make arrangements and pay via instalments to the court who then pays you. I’ve taken Luxurysports to small claims over a defective product and was awarded a full refund, they paid it pretty quick. I’ve also gone through it with a lady who crashed into my car and avoided all contact / liability for it and then tried to say I crashed into her. A year later I went to disputes tribunal with my insurer and as far as I know she’s now being chased by the courts to pay my old insurer. It can be a long process if the other person is a muppet. You can request that your personal information isn’t shared to the other party when the court documents are served (address etc are normally plastered all over them). Threats you would have to show the Police and issue a protective order (they get arrested if they violate it)
  20. What’s shipping like? I imagine these would be quite expensive once you add customs and shipping on top?
  21. 24 or 22mm solid adjustable bars seem to be the go to for the majority of people and can be fine tuned for your driving style . Larger bars aren’t “usually” beneficial on typical road cars. If you’re getting coils i would start off with those and then work out if you want sways. Stock STI’s sways might end up being enough for you. With the adjustable sways you can dial in the under or over steer or make the car neutral. More important would be replacing your suspension components with spherical bushings if you wanted the best handling and feedback
  22. The V11 facelift Spec C is a great car to drive. I even drove one with HKS coilovers and it was fantastic. Guess it depends on the setup overall. @Niran what width and offset are your wheels? Going beyond factory specs usually has a negative impact on straight line stability and cornering as the axis moves further out due wider and lower offset wheels?
  23. When you have firmer coilovers the sway bar becomes ineffective. It’s the body roll / weight transfer that activates / builds up resistance in the sway bar and engages the link to the other wheel so to speak I would run my car on the softer settings if I had better dampers (reacts poorly over bumps) as the car really hooks on tight corners with the upgraded sway bars.