Munkvy

I would be interested in the wind up bits. Don't need the doors themselves, just the mechanism's. But if you want it all gone I am sure we could work something out. What did you want for them?

I still have a box of spare bits from the 6 speed I broke, if you need something in particular from the stock parts? Send me a pic of what you are needing and I will see if I have one?

Stock fuel lines, Deutschworks pump, Spec C fuel pick up baffle, 440s. Dropped a valve into a piston, which wasn't pretty. But most likely caused due to leaning out when fuel surging through the esses'. Loren - sure, depends what you want cagewise, most likely $2-3k for something fairly basic?

True, then it blew up the following day at the next event at Manfield! So no more Manfield for it until I can afford a decent surge setup for the fuel system.

I guess? I am just in the process of doing the same to the E30. So kinda running out of cars to cage!

Does a rally car count? It doesn't have any of the fancy things you talk about...? I have been rallying this for the last couple of years: This was at Targa South Island 2014: Then Targa 2015 (only did the Regional 2 day event): Car is very standard compared to Funkys old car. 6 Speed, Brembos, coilovers and a Link G4 basically. Good for some fun without too much cost. Rallying on a rather small budget means I only do a few events a year in it though, so rest of the time is spent racing a friends Mazda in the Mahindra Endurance series and racing at Manfield in my E30.

I run Elf HTX115, a bit expensive but never had any issues with it. Again as others have said, if you aren't tracking anything really will do. As long as you change it on a semi regular basis.

Nah just Tony was really helpful with telling me how he did it, so I used his advice to build mine. It's reasonably similar, but I only have single port heads, so only run one line from either side. And yes Andy_Mac, you only need a catch can on a car that's being raced. No reason for it on a road car that I can tell. And if you do need it on the road, you probably have either an engine problem or need to slow the f*ck down!

I should explain I have one main can, above and to left rear of engine, with a second overflow can teed off that. I feed all 3 ports into it, and it's above so that it drains back.

I have dual ones. I largely stole ideas from Tony/Ronin as he has the most experience of anyone I know racing with those sorts of setups. So if it works for him on slicks, it's gonna work for a pleb like me on semis.

Not sure, my account says Feb 09, which it seems to say for a lot of people? So not really sure. I am on my 4th or 5th Subaru now and I reckon it must be around 10 years since I got my first? But I still don't know anything other than how to break engines.

That's a long way away, I will probably have a different engine by then! But might be keen. Before then there is Road and Track on at Manfield next weekend (I will be in BMW, not WRX). And then in Jan there is a couple of event's on too.

If you do tap and die it, put a bit of grease in it to catch the metal filings, then flush it out good.

If you are going to that much effort, just rotate turbo and go front mount. I can't feel a difference in lag between front mount and top mount. Mind you I am a bit senile.

I don't know that they physically made the trans thicker? I have heard a few times that the later boxes were stronger, but no specified reason for it. I know that the early boxes (pre V5/6 I think it was) had less attachment points to the engine, so that was supposed to help make them stronger, I imagine it could potentially allow them to locate more rigidly to the box, reducing flex etc? However realistically, as long as you don't want to launch constantly, the box if it has been treated with respect should not differ majorly between anything >2000. Same goes for flat shifting, just say no. If you were looking at a V1/2 WRX or a BC/F5 Legacy I would say yes the boxes are weaker as I have seen the results of launching killing them. But most of them don't have original boxes now anymore due to them being broken...

A fuel pump won't do anything on it's own. However replacing a now 11 year old fuel pump is a safety aspect first and foremost. And a quality aftermarket fuel pump should allow you to run more fuel to the injectors, therefore potentially allowing the tuner to extract more power from the car. I assume when you say full exhaust you have an aftermarket down pipe and no cat?

My bits turned up in genuine Subaru packaging? And were very well priced. And to be fair, I think buying fuel could potentially be supporting extremism... But more realistically it was suggested to me recently that Partsouq is based in Dubai as it's a transport hub, so easy to get parts to and from there cheaply?

Me too, less than 200kw in my case though!

Front pair. And to be fair they are brand new, slotted, with temp paint too, so not exactly cheap kit. But we are also in NZ, so we are going to get screwed on the price of parts that are heavy and in low demand... So far I have done 3 track days, 1 sprint and 2 days of Targa on a secondhand set of these rotors and they are showing no signs of being worn out yet. So I am expecting to get a year to 18 months out of a new set? Also the temp handling difference is noticeable too.

Rotors aren't cheap either sadly. Not sure how much I would pay for new hats, but I didn't get much change out of $800 for the rotors without hats at trade price.

In case anyone is a brake nerd like me, I was weighing up some to ship tonight... Factory 5x100 Brembo front rotors - 10kgs each. Factory 5x100 Brembo rear rotors - 7.3kgs each. Factory 5x100 Brembo front calipers - 4.7kgs each, including half worn pads. Factory 5x100 Brembo rear calipers - 1.9kgs each, including half worn pads. In comparison for the front rotors, DBA 2 piece rotors (including the hats and nuts) are 8kgs each. So 2kg saving per wheel.

Given the experienced Japanese cars have struggled there over the years without some serious aero I think it will be fast in a straight line, but may struggle in the corners. Good luck to them though, would be nice to see something other than a tractor doing well there!

I have done 3 track days and 2 sprints on my catch can setup and had less than a cup full of oil in it. However I run one large can that is teed off both rocker cover breathers and the crank breather all into the one big can which is mounted on the firewall, higher than the engine, idea being to make sure as much oil as possible runs back into the engine, rather than pooling in can.

17x7.5" Revolution wheels. Not light, but strong, which is more important to me. I also run a 215, but with Nitto NT01s instead.

Yup can do.