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Well there you go then. See if you can get the trouble codes, if you get no responce from the tcu they you have lost power to it, if you do get a solenoid code then there is your problem. Solenoids can be done in place "easily".

Get a new six point socket and have a look inside it, you will see that the front edge is slightly champhered to make it slide on and off bolts easier. It's only a tiny champher but it is enough to reduce the contact area slightly. If you hold the socket against the side of a grinder and take the champher off you will have a slightly larger contact area and also the sharp ground edges of the hole will bite into the bolt and they come out easily. Get someone to poke a long screwdriver straight down and into a gap between the torque converter and the flexiplate then use a three-eights powerbar on your new socket and if the holder person lets the flywheel move around to just the right place before locking it, you will get that little f***er straight out of there.

Do a tune up, then put a good quality hand held vacumm gauge on it and see what the vacumm readings are like. If you google vacumm gauge reading you will find some nice little animated demos of common faults. Tight valves is one that comes to mind here.

From the diagnostic manual... "If shift solenoids #1 or #2 malfunction, the TCU deactivates the other. This results in either 3rd gear or Reverse (when selected).". Manual is availiable here... http://cid-cad6b9cf327651dd.office.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public It's called 4EAT diagnosis

Simple job if you are methodical. You get a bit of paper and note down what each valve clearance is at the moment. Then you pull all the shims out and record what thickness they are at each valve and write that down under the first row of figures. Now, using the old clearance and the shim thickness you can calculate how much thicker or thinner each shim needs to be for each position. Now you should have a number written down at each valves position saying what thickness it needs to be... except that there is a range or clearances you can have, so you should actually have two figures for each position which will be acceptable, the thickest allowable and the thinnest. Now run through all the shims measuring them and figuring which combination will fit within the allowable range and use the most shims(this cut's down on the number you will have to buy. Once you know what thickness shims you need to buy, go see an engine reconditioner and ask if they will swap your used shims for some of the ones they have sitting on their shelf.

Get someone to hold a big screwdriver between a torque converter bolt and the side of the torque converter bolt access hole.

If you are sure it has an egr valve then I'd disconnest it and see if the idle comes right first off. If disconnecting it cures the idle then you have something wrong with the control of the valve, other wise it's the valve that's leaking exhaust into your inlet all the time that is the trouble. I'd pull the valve and check it isn't carboned up and not sealing when it's closed.

You take it out and put it in a pot of cold water with a thermometer, then you heat the water and make sure that the thermostat starts to open at the temperature stamped into the thermostat, once it has opened you check that the opening is big enough, which is the tricky part because some thermostats have a small valve and they open wider than thermostats with bigger valves generally. The opening should be somewhere between four and six mills though.

Apart from the lack of heater it is also possible that allowing more water to flow through the bypass might cause a shortage of flow through the radiator... just a possibility. If your heater radiator is blocked you may be able to flush it from under the bonnet with it still in place, otherwise just pull the heater core and take it to a radiator specialist who will pull an end tank off and poke a wire through the cooling pipes and get it like new again for you.

http://www.georgestock.co.nz/catalogue/KINGS/KINGS.htm

That pump will have a pressure relief valve somewhere on it to regulate maximum pressure... Check it's not stuck open or broken it's spring. Also, flow alone is not enough.. you need to check it has pressure... hundreds of pounds of pressure.

Yeah compression test or a leakdown or vacumm test should show whether the compressions are good. You should check all the small vacumm hoses under the bonnet for leaks or cracks, and have a look at the plugs to see if they are all burning evenly.

Threaded rod and spacers to pull it out?

Yeah but what will be next? Download a pdf manual and read the whole thing before you do any more work ... Please.

Mixtures do vary... from second to second!

If you are doing the inner boots you could just slip the outer boots right off the inner end of the axle and slip the new ones on the same way. Then you don't need to remove the outer c.v.s off the axles. Whenever I do a c.v. boot I always take them off that way. Smetimes the outer c.v.s come off first hit of the hammer but more commonly you end up pulling the whole axle out and struggling to get them off. I'm a mechanic and I've found that I can consistantly do the job within the quoted time and without any extra costs(read a new unplanned for cv), if I do it that way.

Are you sure it's the c.v.? Inner front c.v.s and rear axles usually make a horrible vibration well before they start clicking when they have worn out or lost their grease. I'd be checking the wheelbearings and that the axle nut was tight before I started replacing a c.v.

Well first off I'd like to suggest that it's not how much power you can get that is important, it's how useful that power is going to be on the road and how long it's going to go for that are the important considerations. You could get huge amounts of horsepower at the loss of torque, and have a car that's a pig to drive requiring constant gearchanges and constantly having to be right at the right(read high) revs all the time. Motors like this don't last long.

Universal joints or bearing, gearbox mounts, diff mounts...

Is the torque convertor still on the bck of the motor? Or am I reading this wrong? You need the torque convertor in the box then fit the motor up to the box, then pull the torque convertor forwards about ten mills to the flexiplate. If you have been trying to get the motor and torque convertor in at the same time it is likely you wil have damaged the seal. I'd replace it now if there is any doubt about it.

Yup, what Keltik says... it's misfiring. Smoke could be steam so it might pay to check for a headgasket as well as the other things keltik mentioned.

Get a windows live account for free and you can upload twenty-five Gb of files for display and download.

One wire by itself probably wont be a genuine subaru one... they wrap theirs in insulation.

O2 sensors aren't read at full throttle so I'd say no to your question. They are simple to test though, have a read here... http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,7041.0.html

Are you sure you checked the level the right way... idling? If it went for a bit after a top up it may be low again now because the fluid has been pumped into the torque converter. Burnt fluid normally smells burnt and is normally dirty looking. Try getting it to an auto specialist for an expert opinion. Should be free advice or very cheap at least.