chappell943

You might have more luck posting these on the romraider forums where the developers can comment.

Car is compatible, had a V7 sti hatch plugged in last week. Any luck with learning view?

I used brasso with paper towels on my Genome, turned out looking brand new.

Hmm seems strange it\'s not working, maybe try a learning view and see if it will connect using that.

If you right click on my computer and properties, then click hardware and device manager. Can you see the tactrix cable listed under ports?

Can you log okay or are you just struggling to read the rom? To read the rom you need the jumper block connected (different from the green test connectors.) Here are the steps I gave to someone else to set up RomRaider and EcuFlash for logging How to get it all working, this is for windows xp, if you have 7 the only difference should be in instead of c:\Programfiles it will be c:\programfiles(x86). There might be small other differences to do with the driver set up but this should be a solid base. 1. Download RomRaider from https://www.assembla.com/spaces/romraider/documents/caPaLG2Fur4zCDacwqjQYw/download/caPaLG2Fur4zCDacwqjQYw 2. Download RomRaider logger definitions from http://www.romraider.com/forum/download/file.php?id=9892 3. Make sure you have the latest version of java (x86) even if you have a 64 bit computer http://javadl.sun.com/webapps/download/AutoDL?BundleId=68735 4. Download ecu flash http://www.tactrix.com/downloads/ecuflash_1433150_win_beta.exe 5. Download ecu flash definitions from http://www.romraider.com/forum/download/file.php?id=9916 6. Extract both the logger definitions and the ecu flash definitions from their respective zipped folder and put them in a convenient place for later. 7. Run the downloaded RomRaider install file, (accept the terms and keep clicking next until install is complete) 8. Open RomRaider logger, (make sure logger is opened and not ecu editor), push no when first warning box comes up, and then push okay and no until the program opens. 9. Click settings, ‘logger definition location’, browse to the file called logger.xml that you extracted from the zipped folder earlier. Push ok and then exit out of RomRaider. 10. Run the downloaded EcuFlash install file, (accept terms and push next until program is installed.) 11. At the end of the install a window will open regarding the Openport1.3 drivers, this is fine just push next, then accept and then continue anyway, you have to do the drivers part twice. Close out of the installer once all is done. 12. Copy the folder called ‘Subaru’ that you extracted from the zipped folder before and paste it into the location C://Programfiles/openECU/EcuFlash/rommetadata, then click yes to all when the computer asks you about overwriting the current folder. Time to hop in your car 13. Plug Tactrix into obd-2 port and the other end into your usb, you should get a found new hardware message, click no not this time when it asks if you want to connect to the internet to look for drivers. Keep pushing next until driver starts installing. Click finish and then restart your computer. Also unplug the tactrix from the computer. 14. Once your pc has restarted plug the usb back into the computer, make sure your immobilizer is off and your key is off and open up ecu flash, the option to ‘Read from ecu’s flash memory’ should now be able to be selected! You will need to buy a jumper block in order to download your rom but logging should work on romraider. My car (V7 STI) uses the 2003-2005 jumper block I think this is down to the US having different years to us but I ordered a 2001-2002 jumper block and it didn’t come close to fitting so an 03-05 is what you want. Buy that from here: http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-obdii-cables/details/25/1/performance-vehicle-pc-diagnostic-interfaces/evoscan-2003-2005-subaru-wrx-reflash-connector (NZ based company you should have it by Friday or Monday.) Also don’t worry about the warning message that pops up when you start the logger, that only affects the dyno feature of RomRaider which you probably will not be using.

This ^^, also being able to adjust the timing means you can get far smoother timing tables then stock which results in a better driving car.

We plugged my maf sensor in and reset the ecu and the car ran night and day difference, IAM went back up to 16 and was hitting the correct load and g/s with my sensor. Also all hesitation was gone.

Did this today as well ;D

If anyone in CHCH does this I\'ll happily give $1 a can for the red bull.

This help explain?

Wasn\'t me who did it but in that thread there is a picture with proof, so yeah if you buy 42-43 cans then the fuel becomes free due to a $2.10-$2.15 saving per litre on gas. So you end up paying just for the red bull which is the same price as the fuel.

Not sure if this is a repost but http://www.gpforums.co.nz/showthread.php?s=5c02d1e0937c82d3986b160db7434286&threadid=459475&perpage=25&pagenumber=1 "Has anyone else noticed the promo bp are running at the moment; you get a 5c discount off fuel when you buy a red bull can, and you can get 3 cans for $7. Filled up my car last night with around 50L and bought 45 cans which worked out to be free because the total discounts from the cans were greater than their cost! 45 can x 5c = 2.25/L discounts....x 50L = $115.50 of petrol discounted vs 45 red bull cans (45/3 for $7 = $105) So the entire 45 cans were free and ontop of that saved $10.50 from my gas! I think they\'re finally onto a worthwhile discount"

Id try another sender first just in case it is something as simple as that, also due to the fact they are exposed to a lot of heat which probably doesn\'t do them any favors.

Oil change and fixed my rattling uppipe heat shield which was driving me insane.

I had a full xforce system and it was loud, never got hassled by cops though and passed warrants after bolting a silencer in, in saying that I got sick of the noise and now have a genome rear muffler and love it. What I\'m saying is if you go for a noise cert chances are you\'ll fail, just don\'t drive like an idiot and have respect to cars on the road around you and in my experience you never get bothered.

Got a warrant, clean sheet

Thank you! Due for an oil change and I use this oil.

Looks like youll need this for a remote mute. http://radardetectorsreviews.net/?p=138

Cable is just a normal telephone cable for the v1, using the V1 hardwire kit I just needed to wire a positive and a negative wire which I wired up under the steering wheel and then ran up the A pillar and then using fingers you can push the cable under the front of the headlining. edit: turns out your radar uses the same cable, this is quite expensive but is what you need. http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/radar-cables/276/hardwire-kit-generic-v1-bel-escort/154623/detail

I have X and K band turned off (K band off because by the time detector goes off for those low frequency speed camera it is to late anyway.) So with just Ka and laser on I receive next to no false alerts so never need to mute. Ka and laser are the only bands used by police in New Zealand, K band is used by all the "your speed is.." and by speed camera vans but IMO turning K band on for them is not worth all the flase alarms. Also have ka guard enabled which stops the receiver falsing if the car around me has a cheap radar (cobra\'s are notorious for this)

Hardwired in the V1 (excuse Iphone photo)

Are you saying the knock sensor is pulling timing because it is detecting knocking that is not actually there resulting in a hesitation from the altered timing?

Yeah sounds like a bit of a tricky one, hopefully its an easy fix. Give me a text once you\'ve had a look at plugs and reset ecu and we can try get your car running good again!

So am I right in saying it happens when coming onto boost? Eg if you go into 4th and put your foot flat from 2000rpm will it still happen at 4000 or will it come in earlier?