Tony

R180 handbrake is 190mm

No, they wont fit, the the stub axle on the 160 outer CVs are smaller.

De-Solv-It citrus cleaner worked well for me when I removed my old graphics. I find its best to use a heat gun to heat the vinyl first before removing as this seems to help the glue stay on the sticker rather than the car.

Have you actually found some tyres in 225/40/17??? Cos that is a strange size and usually not available (in NZ anyway). Very few companies actually make that size. You sure you're not meaning 225/45/17???

As far as I know, to use lexan on a road registered car it comes under the MSNZ Authority card system (Listed as "alternative glazing" or something like that on the card). Which, if you are building a road registered race car, will also include your cage, harness(s), and other things which are competition vehicle specific. Check out the MSNZ website for the Motorsport manual which should have all the answers: www.motorsport.org.nz

They will still be WAAAAY better than crappy factory rubber bushes. I have the Noltec adjustable rear arms on my race car (which I am guessing use the same bushes your link has above) and they do the job perfectly fine. If you are that concerned dont bother with eurothane bushes, go straight to a pillowball/sperical bearing set up.

Is that the set for $500 from BNT?

But didnt Reuben say he has -1.1 deg camber??? Thats hardly excessive, and perfectly fine for a road car IMO.

I use cheaper no-name discs than that on my race car. Have had no issues at all. I think you will find that with the STI Brembo size discs, even with cheap brands, they have the physical size & thickness to hold the heat better, therefore last longer and not crack as easy as the smaller sized Subaru discs when used under the same circumstances.

You're right, it just something to hold the line there. Your lines will work fine, so really just your choice if you can be bothered swapping lines... will work either way.

18x8.5 fit fine on a GDB. And there are a few decent styles available in 5x100 PCD as well. As said above, anything 5x100 in 9" wide is not easy to come by in NZ.

Nah San, they are not the same as the STI Brembos. The mounting holes have a different spacing so wont bolt straight up. You could make them fit of course - custom mounting brackets etc. Might cost a bit in machining though.

??? The R180 CV outer splines are all the same in my experience... V3-10 or are you talking about R160 rear axles?

Pretty sure the fronts are the same length (as said above, the hubs give the wider track). An R180 GD rear half shaft is only around 5mm (if that) longer than a GC one when side by side (no CVs on them). They are thicker at the end where they go into the CV though, so definatly stronger in that area (which is where they seem to break).

Awesome result bro, especially since its your first time there

white cars with black rims.... isnt that the new boy racer trend? Seems to have taken over from chromes ;D

EXACTLY. You seem to share the exact same thinking as me Qwerty (pretty much what I was going to post!) You have to decide what you want, and how much you want to spend - then work out how much cash you ACTUALLY have to spend, taking into account all the other things along the way (repairs, servicing, etc etc). Everything adds up. I know having worked heads can make good power, and it is definately a needed thing when you want to run larger turbos etc. I have a few friends that have gone right down this path as well. It costs a good amount of money, which is why I didnt go that way. I couldnt afford it. My build is very budget - for those that have seen my car, it may not look like it, but it is built on a fairly tight budget (and I have a lot of friends/supporters to thank for that). For me, reliability was the number 1 priority - as Qwerty said above - I cant afford to rebuild an engine all the time. Unfortunately its a Subaru, and I dont care what anyone says, if you regularly race a high HP Subaru, it WILL break, seen it all before, and then there is the issue of all the other things wearing out/breaking quicker - again, I didnt want that stress cos I wouldnt be able to afford to keep going... at the end of the day, what good is a race car if you cant race it? So basically do what your cashflow will allow, and what you are happy with. If you can find some AVCS heads for a good price, grab them. 200-240kw seems to be a good all-round amount of power without running into too many issues - and the main thing is, the car will still be very DRIVABLE. Past that, I reckon is "open your wallet" territory! And Funky - I am by no means a top driver, just done a fair few laps, and the car is far better than I am, so thats where the credit can go

No, the only issue you would have is with the discs due to the PCD change (which can just be re-drilled as Matt said). I have the Ver. 9/10 hubs on my car and the mounting points are the same for the calipers, so will fit either the Subaru 4 pots or the Brembos. The newest model (GRB) could be different though - but I am pretty sure they use the same front hubs as the 9/10.

The ones you have pictured look like Version 7+ WRX injectors. The STI ones are the same style, but pink, and are rated at 550-565cc (something like that). From what I gather, if you de-cap either of those (blue or pink) they both end up being 800+ cc

AFAIK only the pistons are forged on the "factory forged engines". The subaru rods are all pretty much the same skinny breakable things with crap rod bolt/nut design up until V7 STI (when they went to a chunkier rod with a better rod bolt).

I have one in my V4. Have had it for a while now - works well. I guess you are asking if this clutch is harsh on the gearbox?? It will definately be harsher than a factory clutch as it is quite bitey, but at the end of the day it will come down to how you drive. I have not had any issues, but I do have a GDB 6 speed in my car - may pay to take a bit more care with a 5 speed box if you drive hard though...

I dunno bro... once you get those new brakes on - I bet you will have a heap more confidence in the braking areas. I can see those times tumbling...

Taupo (Track 1) - NZGT Round 1 October 2009: Me: 1.40.9 and BT: 1.42.9

Drop Dave (Cornf) or BT a message - They have both dealt with Process West and have had no issues at all...

strange to hear that..... out of all the race pads I have tried, Endless are definately the best, and are the only pads that actually stay consistant even when they are quite worn (and they dont break up and crumble either like some other overpriced pads I have used :).