Tony

Are you in a rush? I have a stack of Subaru wheel studs sitting at home, so I can send you a few on Monday if you like - you just pay for the courier. Drop me a PM if you are keen

No its not - common sense would make you think that is correct (as I did as well), but its something to do with the percentage of sidewall versus width (I forget exactly what it is, but I am sure someone will chime in with the correct explanation on the subject...) so the actual diameters of the 2 are different. A 225/45/17 is around 634mm diameter, where the 215/45/17 is 625mm (according to the good old "tyre size calc") but this may vary in different brands of tyre as well. And yeah, boostin is correct about the speedo, I got sidetracked on the original question pappu was asking and was meaning that the tyre size would have an effect on ratio.

As far as I knew, all the 6 speed ratios were the same for the earlier boxes whether it is an RA or not. There may be some changes to the newer versions though... and I think the STI Foresters also have longer ratios in some of the gears (read that somewhere)... My gearbox is non RA and it sits around 2700-2800 in 6th @ 100km/h - dunno exactly, but it is definately under 3000. Tyre size will also be a factor and will give variences eg. Brad has a 6 speed in his GC8 so he would be using smaller tyres than a GDB would - maybe 215/45.17 or 215/45/17 as opposed to 225/45/17...

Being an STI V5, you should have 4 pot front calipers, that look like this: If so, you will need the 294mm x 24mm rotors. "pot" is another name for the pistons in the brake calipers (which push the pads onto the rotor to enable braking) - 4 pot has 4 of these pistons (2 each side of the caliper), 2 pot has 2

Yep I have them... if you are talking about this one: They have been super popular and I dont have many sizes left. If you are interested, drop me a PM and I can sort you out some (if I have your size).... apparently not that many shops got them in NZ so they are bit limited. If you were meaning the other shoe - "The Block Manteca" (pictured below), it was not brought into NZ unfortunately, but they are trying to get some stock from the states so it *may* be available soon...

Yes that is correct...... but, I have put GD arms in my GC and when I was swapping them over there was no difference in the length of the arms when I compared them to my original ones - unless there are different spec arms for the GD and some are actually longer? I am also using the late model GD (V9/10 5x114) front hubs and these did increase the track by 10mm each side - which seems to go with what others overseas have suggested - that the extra track is actually in the hubs (for that model anyway). [quote name='funkytown said: edit 2: so how does the "front pivot bush" need altering on the GD control arms.. On the GD arms, the tube (which the bolt goes through) on the front bush is a few mm longer, and where it sits in the GC subframe is not wide enough to accomodate it. All you need to do is shorten one side of the tube so it fits.

+40 offset on an 8" wide rim can fit a GC/GF, the rear guards will need rolling, and possibly have to run a bit of negative camber to tuck the tyre under the guard. Running 215 tyres would also make it easier as the tyre will have that slight stretched look so will give more clearance to the guard.

That's what I thought, but was unable to find anything about them on the endless site. probably should have looked harder. yeah I dont think they do them anymore - all these new compounds are coming out now. I found that info on some american site. Most likely old stock that they are trying to get rid off hence the price???

Those ones are NA-S compound, here is the description on them: "Type NA-S is a sports pad, which is applicable to a wide range of rotor temperatures, from as low as 70°C to a high-speed running temperature of 450°C. Out in the street, this "almighty" pad delivers the necessary response at the important starting period. At the same time, it maintains low noise level, and comes in a broad line-up to match the driving needs of everyone, from the first-timer to the top notch driver" So it would be more a street type pad rather than an all out track one. Would still be okay for a few laps I would say.

Does NZDRA allow bolt in jap cages for running 10s??? I thought they were quite strict about tubing thickness etc for cars running that quick - and also dont they require tech inspection to be compliable??? I wouldnt think that one of those cages would pass. I could be wrong though (I dont know much about drag racing), but I have a few friends whose cars run 10s and quicker and their cages are fairly beefy - most notably the main hoop - the tubing is a bigger diameter than my MSNZ spec cage.

Nah, not that much. Just spoke to one of the boys at Mag & Turbo - he was a bit busy, so couldnt get me the exact price, but he said well under $2500 including tyres. Although he is pretty sure they didnt do any 5x100 ones. If anyone is keen I can look into it further though and get exact pricing and availibility...

yep, either axles will work. I am still using my original V4 rear axles, and have a stack of V10 ones as spares, but have not needed to use them at all yet! The newer ones are thicker at the ends where they go into the CVs rather than tapering down a bit on the GC ones, and also they are slightly longer (only about 5mm) but this is no issue and they work fine on GC8s.

Just use the 1 top bolt to hold the starter on.... I have been running it like that for over 3 years on my race car with no issues. [quote name='nt_a_foz said: Iv picked up a v8 6sd, rear diff an axles and driveshaft. These will all bolt up to my type r factory hubs right? Yep, will be fine - your original rear axles will fit into the diff as well, so keep the V8 ones as spares

Mike, just get Avgas from the Taonui airfield on the way to Manfeild. As Loren said, its about 50 cents per litre cheaper than the Mobil near the track. I got some the other week and it has now gone up to $2.20/litre.

Heres a couple of successful examples: These guys run bolt on spacers and lower offset, wide wheels (so PCD will need to be changed to 5x114.3). The top cars bodykit is around 40mm wider than a 22B.

As far as I know, only the newer model (some V8, V9+)STIs used male inner front CVs. All the GCs that I have come across have female inner CVs with the stub axles sticking out of the diff...

A definate for a Subaru would be spare front hubs with new wheel bearings ready to go.... A smart man once told me this is one reason why you dont see many Subarus in endurance races - the bearings just cant handle the prolonged heat.

All those things add to it (I run over 4 deg negative camber, and was using 15mm spacers making my offset +29!). Also have to take into account the amount of heat going through the hubs from the brakes. Its just another thing you have to be aware of if you intend to run a Subaru race car [...sigh...]

Are those big dollars less than the cost of an engine rebuild? If so, then its probably worth it. Usually you will find spending a bit more in the first place will save you money in the long run. But at the end of the day, if you race cars (particularly Subarus) you will never save money! This is a good buy: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-232090360.htm It is proven by one of NZs quickest circuit Subarus too.

The calipers will bolt straight on, new hubs are not needed. The STI Brembos will bolt onto any of the earlier WRX & Legacy front hubs - they use the same mounting points. 5x114.3 PCD is only on the V9+ STIs, so unless the Brembos came from one of those models the discs will not require re-drilling. Your brake lines will work fine too. As for master cyliner & booster - some say yes, you should change to the STI one to suit, but I am still using my original one and everything works fine.

You will be fine - 0.63 and 0.86 housings have the same mating surfaces for up & down pipes

Go see Dave at DTech Motorsport (Roxanne Place), he will be able to suss it out for you.

I have a GT2876 on my car. To be honest, with the 0.86 turbine housing it was a pig - felt good up top, but was quite lazy to come on boost. I changed to the 0.63 and it is waaaaay better. The response is greatly improved and the car just feels more drivable.

Last time I priced Castrol SRF it was $150ish per (litre) bottle. I too have heard really good things about SRF, but have yet to have the budget to allow me to try it! Maybe one day I will give it a crack....

Was just speaking with Chris (CASPROS) about this very thing.... Here is my set-up: Walbro in-tank pump, going through Bosch inline fuel filter to the surge tank (2 litres I think it was?), then another inline filter to the Bosch 044 external pump.