Marky

I'll be honest The mudflaps / towbar / race tow strop combo confuses me haha

Without a boost gauge you're just guessing, no it doesn't get "stuck" as such and certainly isn't gear dependant Put a gauge on it and see if there's any correlation with the numbers it shows and what you feel

Yeah if it's too thin it is a biiiiitch to remove If it's on quite thick it just peels off quite nicely If you've got like, flecks of it, just rub it with your finger

Make a coffee table out of it

Yep, it'll help, for sure. Also be aware of when you're fanging it, it takes the top mount a good couple hundred metres to get down to normal temp if you've been sitting in traffic a while

Gotasuby on here is the chch go-to man for that stuff. He's a very smart cookie Or even ask NZEFi to do it? They'd charge a token cost to remove and re-flash the ECU but I'd expect they kept your old stock rom on file anyway. It's a 5 min process to plug in and re-write the info, 4:30 of which is waiting for the laptop to turn on What parts got removed from the legacy?

That weird high pitched noise from about 0:50 is pretty accurate, that diesel rattle sound That one at 0:22 is perfect too It's a noise all car people should learn, it's the "stop doing what you're doing" noise

Yeah to a degree, depends on the severity I guess. I've seen plenty of cars where you could hear them det through knock cans but still not drop power - that said once it gets to being audible to the unassisted ear then yes it does make things get sad To be fair the average stock suby is so inconsistent with performance that it's hard to pick when it's down on power due to a problem or if it's just heat soaked

You won't *feel* det A misfire yes, det not so much Some of these legacies sound like diesels under acceleration, they genuinely get that bad. Most noticable in midrange when the secondary is waking up

^^ Do that $120 for a power run and quick diag from a practised ear might save you a heap of trial-by-replacement

Like... when you have foot flat, you get this erratic clack clackety tap tap clack sound? If so that's severe pinging (AKA knock, detonation, engine self immolation whatever you want to call it) which the rev D is horrific for I re-read what you wrote and you said it's only after you button off?

Would you say it's similar to someone tapping something metal with something metal, or almost gravel on tin type sound, and quite erratic?

It's not a coil going bad once it heats up maybe? Or AFM doing the same? Not convinced here it's fuel related Generally to have a fuel related misfire it has to be either super pig rich, or super dangerzone lean, either of which would show up in normal use you'd think

That explains the fans not coming on, but doesn't explain the other stuff you talk about (radiator not heating up etc) I would still be querying blocked heater core like Ross said, for what it's worth. Very common (like, just google EJ25 overheating) and also very simple to work around (just 2x tee junctions joining the heater lines at the back). They should both feel hot hot once car is at temp

Cough *cup size? cough

Yep 100% can be reset to stock, a stock tune can be loaded onto it through a "tactrix" cable, same way it would have got tuned to start with Bit of a waste to do that though, it's like stripping back a custom paint job to stock, money spent then thrown away Someone on here is would be bound to swap you the tuned ecu for their stock one if you put it out there I bet

Download your tune Keep it on your laptop Then you can chuck that in your new car which I am assuming is the same make & model AND new owner of your old car gets to go fast Though if your new car isn't an identical make & model are you sure it's worth bothering keeping the ECU anyway

It's not a BH strut is it?

Is it actually dimmer and not just pointing a different direction? Dumb question but you never know

I need your patience ^^ I still haven't got mine fitting that nicely I went out and did a before and after, same stretch of road, 10 mins apart. What it doesn't show is that the stock tune pings so bad it sounds like a bag of marbles is under the bonnet, like farkn jesus I've heard hiluxes run less rattly. Turns out that trying to stop it self destruct results in it going way better too, who would have thought

Buy it and put your gtb stuff in it and bumper on it Bam widebody GTB You won't lose money parting it out put it that way

Surely you have some in your govt supplied tool kit? Or not yet? Half my tools still have my serial no on them haha, constant reminder of a previous life

It's just the radiator hose $20 from repco, couple mins to fit it and you're away. It's just clamped at either end

Ohhh I'd say there's been 15 years of (ab)use to prove that right or wrong

Dumb thought but is it doable to just use an old manifold and just bung on a VF22 or TD05 or what have you? Lose: Twin scroll Gain: Dubdubdubdub and enough flow to grenade motor