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I had the anycar ipod plugin for my old BP wagon, worked okay. I found some of my music was overdriven but turning soundcheck on fixed that, sound quality was good apart from that. Its worth noting that the track display on the headunit is not related to what your playing on your device, it just sorta makes it up.

Due to the banjo bolt oil filters I told you about (now removed) the turbo did need to be replaced. Thought it was worse than it was at the time, but a compression test showed the engine to be in good order, so a recon turbo was put on and it never ran better to be honest.

Yea its closed, had a mate that used to work the bar. Had many a good night there....

That would be my old car. Hows she going for ya?

Yep, Every car since 1998 should have an OBD II port for diagnostics. You'll find it on the drivers side lower dash panel.

Depends on what the cars tuned to run on. The same principals apply from injected to carbed motors just that an injected motor will adjust its own fueling and ignition timing to suit the fuel, where as on a carbed motor you get a screwdriver and a spanner and adjust it yourself.

A garage will most likely only do belt, water pump, tensioner and idlers if its a 100k change and there are no signs of leakage. I usually recommend doing seals at a 200k change just because you can imagine they would be worn by then. Saves some money but obviously is the risk you run of them leaking.

Awesome thanks [quote name='sobanoodle said: It's not that hard to do it yourself, been there done that. I would give it a go but my soldering skills are pretty terrible, probably end up completely ruining it.

Does anyone know of anyone who fixes/exchanges the clocks/fuel economy-o-meter's? Mine looks like its guessing the time when its working (Err 5:45)Thats when it comes on at all. From research its just a dry solder on a resistor but its under the display so not easy to get too. Im also after some standard springs if anyones got any lying around.

Could someone tell me what the standard boost level is on a 1s ECU'ed WRX?

One thing about the fuel economy on these there seems to be a massive difference between autos and manuals. From what i've seen the manuals average around 9-10km/l and the autos only get about 7-8km/l my auto seems to confirm this.

My BP5 came with the horny alarm on(lol) even has a slightly to quiet high pitch beep with lock and unlock. I know that there is a way to turn off the gauge sweep when you turn the ignition on but why you'd want to turn it off I don't know. Which stereo has the SRS settings on it?

Sad story mate, but at least the car came back. Better than find a shell. Your gonna have a hell of a time trying to find all that chrome trim again...

PFR6G is the standard Platinum plug and will retail at about $30 per plug, IF you want to save money just get some BKR6EIX plugs, you can usually get these for around $80 for a set of 4 and they are exactly the same as the PFR6G except for they are made from iridium not platinum. Plus they are a lot easier to find and according to the stats should last longer.

No you are right, the market is in a bit of a slump at the moment. I would wait tbh. They seem to come up in waves, I can remember seeing BL GTBs on trademe with 100-140ks for 10-12k a few months back but market seems dead at the moment.

10km/l average is awesome for one of these. Who did your tune?? 14k id say is quite high, look at what it needs thats 1k there plus the seedy boost tap, id be closer to 10-11k but thats just me.

These turbos are known for letting go if pushed, is saying that 1.5psi over stock isn't a great deal more, But you have to think why it was put on there in the 1st place? Fuel economy on this model is an improvement over the older but at the end of that day its still a 4 pot turbo, I get about 8-8.5 km/l mainly city driving and can go up to about 9-10km/l on the highway thats a 5eat BP GTB.

Just found out that my new BP legacy has yellow springs in (to match the bilsteins). These wouldn't be factory would they? The car does ride quite harshly on NZs top quality roads, but having nothing to compare it too im abit lost. Doesnt seem any lower than stock just seems to ride very harshly for standard suspension. Would stock BH/BE legacy springs fit okay?

I always use auto movements to move my cars around, never had any issues. Have tried others Toll (car showed up with missing gear knob and a flat tyre) and CDG (forgot to pick up car and I ended up having to pick up from their compound despite paying for door to door) But have found Auto Movements to be reliable, fast and well priced.

We have a Carmanscan, seems to do most okay but can be a bit glitchy when reading certain data streams. Software just seems cheap and quite often you have to repeat selections aswell, To be honest I wouldn't recommend it. Have had a little experience with Launch products, the ones I used were good but again I found them a bit unrefined software wise if you get what im trying to say.

Is a cool idea although a bit unfeasible. They are a completely different chassis so it wouldn't be a simple fit(chassis modification - Cert - more $$$), plus the BG is slightly smaller I think so even if you pulled it off the proportions wouldn't look quite right.

Jump on over to this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402 scroll down to find your unit and should give you some info.

These turbos dont like being pushed apparently. If i was you id go for option 2, upgraded unit that will give more tuning ability and be a direct swap. Plus gives you the peace of mind that its going to last. Just my 2c.

This, be careful because if the car is puling boost because of knock and you go winding the boost back up, you could cause serious issues. Better to have the car scanned and tested first just to be sure the boost solenoid is your issue. The boost controller will fix the symptoms but might not fix the underlying problem.

Have you cleared the code? some systems are hesitant to clear codes, they have to be manually cleared especially when it comes to ABS/SRS stuff. Leave the NEG battery terminal off for 15mins is the easiest way. Another thing is check the wiring back to the ABS unit, you may have a brake or a dirty connector causing a false signal.