Andy_Mac

Ahh cool. You can get those CT Auto ones here too. The US guys seem to whinge about losing the feature with the Spyder ones which I believe are the same as CT Auto so I wonder if they just haven't been bothering to swap it over. It could be in the projector lense that the light diminishes too but I've got no idea really. I still fancy the OEMassive wide C style ones but they don't seem to have a HID friendly version. http://oemassive.com/fit-2008-2014-impreza-wrx-led-drl-switchback-signal-black-projector-headlights/

I've often wondered the same. Heaps of people seem to have these right now. The light output of most variants is s*** but you can with some, like this set, swap your existing low beam setup into them, minus the auto levelling feature which is my main concern for legality, though no WOF guy will ever notice it's missing.

Yeah most people do a drop in 207 block as a replacement when the do a bearing on their stock block. The only thing that really matters is the compression ratio which will be different so you need to work that out before putting the heads and block together. The typical lower compression makes it a lot easier for these cars to make boost without knocking too.

Plus the driveshaft and just slip the trans back half a foot and do it that way

In the past I've just used the factory donut gasket on the factory downpipe squashed tight into the 3inch catback. Not the best way but it never leaked. I found the adaptor stuff like you're looking at there pushed the whole exhaust a bit far back for ideal fitment. My current STI just had the factory gasket and some goo put on it then mated up to the larger catback and that never leaked either.

I'd confirm it the other way round anyway. Short of leaving an o-ring out there isn't any other reason for it to not work other than it being faulty.

Check that it is in fact wired the right way round. I did the same with my first one so it ran backwards, sounded fine but never actually builds line pressure enough to start. I almost felt like the pump was internally wired backwards compared to the factory one as I had double checked all my wiring before starting it.

Have you gone for a good drive with it yet? My old one on the legacy sounded similar to that at first until the mufflers kinda settled in. Worth chucking some rags in the tips and see if you can hear it leaking elsewhere.

I mean, if you get a rear end wrecked manual on the cheap it may work out but anything else won't be financially viable

It'll surely be a shambles like the 4th gen Legacy’s. The only easy way would be to swap essentially everything over from a donor car including most of the electrical components and looms as the CANBUS system makes it a messy swap. Maybe CCT can Jimmy something up in the ECU like they have apparently done with the 4th gens but most tuners are not capable of doing this level of programming in the ECU as they just aren't dedicated to putting that much time and effort into a factory ECU for a single platform. Needing a cert is a given as you'll be changing the brake pedal for the manual one.

@boon What kind of centre diff does a V7 have? Non-dccd for a standard model aye?

Not sure on the older STI’s setup but 4th gen Legacy’s would often get a click similar to that which was the viscous centre diff. It would be much worse doing tight turns and once warmed up.

There’s a whole thread on legacygt.com where people have made random 3D printed bits. I imagine if you can get gauge holders sorted for the vents and centre cubby for the 4th gen Legacy’s you’ll make a few bucks for sure. The only other guy I know of making them 3D printed style currently is pretty rough so if you could improve on that there is a heap of potential. He’s gone with a modular approach where you clip more pods on which doesn't look all that tidy

Upholsterer?? Can't say I've ever considered sourcing some from an upholsterer. I just buy 10+ of every style my car needs from partsouq at next to nothing and slowly burn through them as they get wrecked upon removal.

They need 48mm ones. All the various factory one's I've had from v7 up have been the same length

Dunno if flow is exactly the same but they are the same physically.

I was hitting much higher than that but that was when I was tuning it which was quite conservative and probably a bit richer. @Jack.c11 those ones with the extensions are probably the way to go. No idea if those full size ones are the right size for the Subaru top feed rails.

Nah. You just grab the plug kit and cut the factory pins off and put compatible ones on. Or buy the little adaptor wire section that goes from the factory loom plug to the ID injectors.

Pretty sure they won't be. Most guys getting their v11’s tuned with them max out before there. I changed to ID1050x’s for future proofing.

Bigger turbo’s I assume?

Make sure you do a lot of research with muffler deletes on these cars. Almost all aftermarket setups are extremely droney even when not too loud. That's why the factory muffler is such a monster.

Nah hasn't been for me with either car. Jap ones don't seem to use the o2 sensor to check for cat efficiency the way US one's do.

I did it to my GRB. Maybe with a stock exhaust it would of made it more audible but I really didn't notice much with the super loud R400 catback. I've gone to a local Subie mechanic for WOF’s for the last few years and they’ve never failed the Legacy for having the same thing done, VTNZ used to pass it too.

Tomei have made a UEL header setup for twin scroll FA’s but it doesn't have anything like the usual UEL sound

Yeah that the one I saw too. Yes v11’s are dbw also. Hard to say exactly on the loom side. If all the plugs look to be the same you might be alright but i’d use the Legacy loom but with the plastic support setup from the V11 manifold. Then you know everything is wired correctly but still has the OEM mounting.