Andy_Mac

Do you really get that much for cat innards? I thought they were some sort of ceramic material?

Might just give that a shot then. Given up on the idea of saving up for a real one, many many things i would rather spend 1500 on. So having the wastegate bleeding straight up against a flat plate won't be all that detrimental in this case since there isn't all that much flow anyway? I'm sure my massive breaker bar used for snapping bench vice's will do the trick of smashing up a cat.

Wanting to try up the boost on my setup to get a bit more power. Problem is for the JDM Legacy's catted downpipes come in at well north of $1500. So wondering how povo I can go and still be worthwhile. Would it be beneficial to cut open the wastegate side of the original downpipe, open up the flange hole as wide as possible and merge it into the main section? Suppose doing work like that has the potential to mildly warp the flange so may need to be resurfaced afterwards? Also would keeping the stock cat/cats diminish any gains this may have

Cos this way we all get to know. Well sorta, this behemoth isn't exactly the easiest thread to navigate at a later date

Could be keen to see what he can get out of mine on a dyno. Thinking about doing a bit of a custom home hack up of my downpipe to open The wastegate area a bit. In stock downpipes is it the cats that are the biggest restriction or the blank plate over the wastegate?

Free retunes for life is a killer deal. Think he's throttlehappy on here too. Hardly ever posts but it all seems to be tuning related.

Kido's definately the one for 3.0r's. Cryotune did a mint job on mine but doesn't seem to have as much as experience with the 3.0r's. Also don't think he goes as deep into the cam timing as kido does, sounds like there's quite a few more tables he alters.

So you've finally made the move to the dark side that is clubsub, good choice

There's a few US guys that have done it. Been a while since i've read through it properly but this guy claims everything other than the buckle is a straight bolt in http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/naylors-swp-lgt-wagon-188942p3.html

Yea freessm only works with the tactrix openport 1.3 and older, not the 2.0 which is the current model. Why not just do a TCU reset in Romraider logger? Or can you guys actually load the PAK file using freessm?

Or just go in balls deep and get a tactrix

Seems to be a pretty common issue then. Mines got a big f'd patch between the cluster hood and A pillar Looked pretty manky. Just put my boost gauge over it. Doesn't quite work out that easy for you 3.0r guys though. Long term goal is to steal a dash from a non mcintosh car to get rid of the centre speaker grille. Anyone else get a weird white powdery buildup all over the dash every few months?

Missed this. Na want to stay away from coilovers at this point. Thinking about just getting some sti pinks, bit more low without scraping every time i get to the driveway.

Their intake manifold they were 'developing' looks like an exact copy of the process west one too.

Interesting. D pillar's pretty far back. Seems like a weird choice, guess its why they stopped doing it after 2nd gens

Do they even have rear tweeters? Thought they would have just had rear coaxials like most subaru's?

Yea definately seems 07 onwards. Still like having a key in mine, always know where they are that way. Can't accidentally leave them in the house and drive off.

Also matt from kido_tuning. Sounds like he's fairly good at hacking things together to get you running if the defs don't exist for your ECU. Imagine you'll be wanting to have a go at tuning it yourself though right? Can get some pretty awesome results if you go with e85

Shouldn't be too hard for someone like you to hack a def file together using one of the existing files that runs the same specs as yours

Been a while since she's had any love. Definately needs to get lowered.

On my old BE5 i'd always just let it sit there idling for 10-15 mins then go for a bit of a drive round town and it would have sorted itself out by then.

Not a clue but what would the chances be stuffed wheel bearings could be the cause of your speed sensor problem.

Found a few of the old girl

He's refering more to the fact that the facelift legacy's use the HB4 bulbs while the facelift outbacks still use the H3 like the prefacelift legacy's. Yours are still H3

Yea you're right. Haven't had any good threads like this in a while