A_J_T

#rotiforms

Saw BH and 401. forced to read full post.

@ADIKT Pics of acclaimed pending purchase

So the difference is if you've had lunch or not.

I cant see it making much difference. aren't the Outback and Legacy basically the same weight? Besides slamming an outback to the ground is not exactly something one does in the pursuit of comfort and performance. its done casue it looks bloody fantastic haha, that being said MCA would do you a set with custom spring rates and what not for an Outback and get it super comfy while riding low... but pay a petty penny for their gear as previously discussed in other threads.

Pretty sure this method works on the Gen3 for checking fault codes etc. http://www.subyclub.com/topic/1273-howto-checking-and-resetting-ecu-error-codes/

See what the CEL is about, let us know. Vent to atmosphere BOV will make it surge coming on and off throttle and run super rich on idle unless its adjustable and wound tight so no venting when on idle vac. wgp/limp mode sounds like detonation but could be a number of things including venting bov, maybe o2 sensor related idk. CEL code will tell

Yea if it started hitting high boost after the "Hose 10" mod id suggest something went wrong. Either revert changes and see how you go or check vac diagram and ensure you have the mod setup correctly. Hose 10 mod did nothing for my Rev-D, just moved the slight VOD higher into the rpm. but others have had different results.

22psi sounds very high, does it hold that over 5k rpm or is it spiking to 22 on primary and then managing boost better when the secondary comes in? what boost is it holding at 6k rpm? Regardless of if its been tuned or not Its going into limp mode, when the ECU detects too much knock and cant sort it out by pulling timing the ECU will cut boost to wastgate spring - 7psi. Mine would do this in its TT japan spec tuned state when i lived north and only had 95. it will stay limited until it goes a certain time without detecting knock, so if you take it for a polite cruise or reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery it will come right, but 22 is way too high on those twins, those lil turbos will just be thrashing hot air, possibly be better off on less boost with a more dense charge. Seen good results on these running 17-18 psi with a tune. without a known good tune stick to 14psi imho

Subaru 4 pots are a strait bolt on but biggest gains are in decent pads. also this should keep you busy for a bit.

Get a Rev-D Gen3, convert it to single turbo, enjoy life

The only thing that will excite a Rev-D owner is going single turbo

i thought he had a murch rebuilt gt3076r, or are we talking about the same thing

Thats awesome, are you brake boosting on some of those more wide open corner entries?

I'm marginally confused so bear with. You installed a EWG for the sound? You disconnected the MAP Sensor to avoid boost cutting? Who is doing the tune? Stock boost on these is around 10-11psi? and boost cut "For engine safety" is around 16psi. What you have said about swapping vac hoses from IWG and EWG will somewhat work "as you now know" but due to the difference in wastgate diameter, spring pressure, location, even different lengths of vac line going to the valve will have a small impact on the duty cycle which is never going to work for both. Hence the veriation in boost between the two. Where do you have your boost gauge plumbed into and have you compared the gauge to another one, depending on the brand/quality of gauge its not uncommon for one to be as much as 1-2psi out. I'd be gentle until its tuned man, i can appreciate your reasons for the mods but just take it easy without reliable boost information and no way to check AFR's. If it is the MAP you have disconnected its possibly running rich anyway but eehh idk aye. you have a nice little car, don't want it to go pop prematurely Just my 2 cents

From what i know about these is they are gutless and still use all your money on fuel. If you can find a good BPE then you have what you wanted in the first place and the 3L seem to run good. I realize location is an issue for you but eh, Super high Ks, example of their durability if nothing else http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1197070955.htm

@Not_Sean What i had in mind.. Justy + Roof Tent

Have you considered a Justy and a Tent?

@Not_Sean New wheels or spacers?

Yeah -1.25 degrees is not alot, but if its the OEM limit then it has to sit like that for the cert. now its got the cert plate i guess you could pull a little more out of it without creating obvious legal issues. That being said i do really like the way yours sits, looks sensible and tidy

Nom nom camber, tire wear, joy @JGM Where did you pickup your camber arms? they also need listing on the cert correct?

@ADIKT @JGM So all that is required* are legacy bump stops and Coilovers. Control arms and what not are optional or?

Don't want to hijack anything but all you lads on here that have the 3L 6 cylinder goodness, what are you running in the way of fuel octane and have you noticed a difference between 95-98? If it is a Jap import id tend to only ever run it on 98 as they run them on 100 over there, or is that a false perception i have just because I've had horrid experience with the turbo models and low octane? then there is the differences of RON and MON and oh who knows what but in japan they also rate fuel on the whole RON scale yea?

imo removing the V-Band holding the housing to the CHRA would make the job alot easier and eliminate the risk of metal filings getting places they shouldn't be. The most difficult part of this entire processes is actually removing the turbo from the car

Yea, primary has the gate secondary does not.