boostin

Lock actuator failure is common. Easy to replace though. Check power and earth when you click buttons. If it's getting the signal, replace the actuator. Ac controls, remove the radio and ac unit but leave it plugged in. While it's operating, give the plug a wiggle and test for poor connection there.

There's nothing in the service manual about testing the sensor itself. Just wiring tests, power, earth, and if everything checks out ok, replace the sensor.

I have Nolathane bushes in my Legacy, and I hate them. Going back to factory rubber bushes soon.

VDC is normally cut but not ABS. VDC requires some control over the engine, like reducing throttle when wheel spin is detected, and so to prevent VDC operating incorrectly, the function is cut while the ECU detects a fault. Same goes for cruise. I'll try and remember to check if there's a procedure to test the sensor tomorrow.

Sweet, good result then.

Or is something holding the solenoid open, keeping oil flow to the cam gear?

Tried another air flow meter?

Shim heads? Or hla?

I'd be going over every inch of vac/pressure hose and make sure there's none broken or disconnected, and all going to the correct place.

No, you'll crack the coating off the ground terminal. Always buy the correct plugs specified for your engine.

What modifications?

Hmmm, pics would help here. Clean it down with degreaser, detergent etc, rinse thoroughly and dry it out, then run the engine and watch for the source. If it's a slow leak, check it after every drive.

So twin turbo Legacy?

Out of the top where? Suction line? Top of rear gasket?

But you don't have to do the whole kit. Sure it's recommended, but just replace the bad bits if you're on a budget. Or drive it until it stops and throw a second-hand engine at it. An EJ15 can't be more than 500 bucks surely? @Joker, the easiest way to test for valve damage after a broken cam belt is to put a new belt on and turn the key. You'll know pretty quickly if it's ok or not.

You could just fix the issue and not worry about broken valves? It has to be done anyway....

Depends if you're a cheap bastard like me, and power levels, driving style/habits etc. I would expect a better launch, possibly better acceleration, but with increased NVH.

You had your answer days ago.

Yeah probably a worn belt.

So long as it's the same ish year, you're golden.

The early autos were. Permanent drive to the front and variable to the rear. Manuals and later autos with VTD can vary drive front to rear. Then there's DCCD.....

Check voltages, fuel pump controller, pressure at the tank, try another reg.....

Front axle torque lifts the gearbox and engine. Edit - front axle torque tries to rotate the engine and gearbox assembly backwards, engine up and gearbox down. Yes pesky prop shafts and whatnot also get in the way, but the torque reaction is there.

Might have to remove the ball first, but definitely not the bar. The bumper has to come off to remove the bar, not the other way around.

This week I discovered that FBs suffer from this also, but from a different source. The one I worked on had a LH TGV fault. During diagnosis I found oil in the main engine bay loom connection, but none at the ECU. I discovered the LH AVCS solenoid had leaked internally into the loom, travelled up to and filled the main connector, then down to the LH TGV where it had filled it and shorted the position reference circuit.