boostin

If bought privately, nope. This case shows why proper diagnostic process should be followed, rather than assuming, throwing parts at it, and hoping.

Try wreckers? They probably won't separate it from a good caliper though. See if a dealer can order one in? Or even try 0800 RACE BRAKES

It's called an Outback.

Ok so each door runs a twisted pair of wires off the amplifier, and all 4 speakers are in parallel, so at 8 ohms each that presents a 2 ohm load at the amp?

Usually bolt up, but there are 2 holes to drill from 8mm out to 12mm(maybe?) on the gen 4s.

Strongs/Waiuku/Henderson? Not that hard to fit yourself if you have decent tools and mechanically-minded.

I'll see if it's all shown on the wiring diagram on Monday

Chuck a full 20L jerry can in the back and see how far you can get until it runs out.

It depends on how they're wired and where the coil and capacitor are. Don't forget there's 4 speakers in each front door of a McIntosh system too.

From memory facelift BL and BP are all the same, between turbo and NA variants, and I think the same lamp was used in the BM/BR....

Check the ecv closes and seals first. Have seen many with worn pivot pins that don't close fully, causing exhaust leaks and a chattering valve. I think someone needs to do some reading up on the twin turbo system and its operation.

Wof rules say tail lamps must be bright enough to be seen from 200m in normal darkness, and stop lamps from 100m in daylight. All very open to opinion. That's Ruapehu though, where every other car is a Subaru.

Primary boost is primary turbo (left side) only, secondary boost is both turbos together.

The battery probably isn't charging without the charge light being in the circuit.

That would be ok if you never had to look at the front of it, or were blind.....

It won't be the pump at fault. It's either the o-ring as mentioned or the hose to the reservoir sucking air or both. The pump is noisy due to drawing in air, and that can only happen on the suction side of the pump. Replace the hose and o-ring and check for nicks and scratches on the alloy fitting on top of the pump.

When they were first released there was a recall to check for metallic fragments in the bottom of the sump from premature bearing failure, but to be honest I've not heard of piston or ring issues. We get 1 or 2 a year for turbo failure but that's about it.

I'd hate to drive on the predecessor then! Those V2s have put me off Hankook for a long time. Not sure why we have very different experiences of them. Edit - ah Concept 2, not V2 Concept.....

I had Hankook Ventus V2 Concepts on the 3.0R. Absolute S***. Scared myself more than once in the wet with them, and not much better dry. It could get all 4 spinning with little effort. Early this year I picked up a set of Zetums. Way better, both wet and dry. Apparently they're no longer made though.

Ring around dealers until you find one that will program it for free if you buy the key from them? At least a dealer supplied one will be guaranteed to work. An eBay special might be the wrong frequency for your car, and yes there's a few.

99 will be obd, not the later obd2. Same plug though, yours is by the bonnet release lever. Yours throttle is cable operated, not electronic so doesn't need initialising. Basically after a reset, power loss etc, the electronic throttle needs 5 or 6 seconds to do a full sweep. I'm not entirely sure what it's learning, whether it's full and closed throttle, or resistance and power required to overcome etc, but give it 10 seconds to be safe. Cranking before it's finished doing its thing results in extended crank time on that start, and usually a pretty shitty idle and delayed throttle response.

Or if it's OBD2, buy yourself a cheap Bluetooth reader like a ELM327 from Trade Me, download a free smartphone app, and reset it properly yourself. If it has electronic throttle, remember that whenever the battery has been disconnected or a ECU reset done, always turn the key to ON for about 10 seconds before cranking. This allows the throttle to re-initialise.

Ffs, both NZ new and import run the same tank, pump, lines, injectors, seals..... Run Gull 98 and don't worry about it.

Give Robinson Instruments in Auckland a call, see if it's something they can possibly repair. You'd need to remove the cluster and send it to them.

Just replace the self levelling shocks with standard shocks.