jost

In the loom under the steering column there is a grey plug (with 8 pins i think?), there are 2 black wires taped up in the loom near the plug, i can\'t remember the specific terminal in the plug that you connect it to but it\'s in the service manual, this also works for BH/BE.

I also recommend ebay, Just brought a set of iridiums (BKR6EIX-11) for $38US ($48 NZ) Delivered, Took 10 days, Made huge difference, runs smoother, quieter, cooler. Better than the cheap plugs it had been running. My one is N/A so different plugs but all varieties are available. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-NGK-Iridium-Spark-Plug-BKR6EIX-11-Acura-Honda-Toyoto-Lexus-Nissan-Subaru-/121082572326?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c31156e26

Have seen 2 different belt lengths on the quad cam, one for the earlier type and one for the later with the extra idler by the tensioner bearing. Unless it has the extra skinny idler it will be the same as the earlier ones.

If you have a garage to work in and some basic tools all you need is an engine crane and do it yourself, even if you brought an engine crane and a half decent set of tools you would save a heap. All the info you need can be obtained just by asking, the biggest pain is the downpipe, once that\'s off everything else is pretty straight forward. If you see something you may forget how it goes, take a pic of it or label it. You don\'t need a lot really, i have the tools and just swapped out a blown ej20 for an ej25 and i currently don\'t have a garage at the moment so did it on my mates front lawn, took one afternoon, would have been quicker if i could have actually rolled the engine crane around.

no worries, just noticed plenty of typos in my post, but i think you get the general idea.

Stick to the same ago (approx) and you won\'t have any issues, Also there are 2 different sizes of torque converter so if you are using the one that comes with the replacement trans make sure it\'s the same size. The earlier (98-96) trans are pretty much the same, they made some changes late 96 and then changed again to one with an external filter in 98. So basically Impreza or legacy will be fine, EJ15 EJ16 EJ18 EJ20 EJ22 EJ25 all use essentially the same trans with small differences in gear ratios, just check the front diff ratio.

Put a block of wood on a jack, place it under the sump and slowly lift the motor, if it lifts up on either side that side mount is shot.

I have a 2000 BH EJ251 SOHC, Timing belt went at 100km, nothing bent, Although i just replaced a 1995 ej20 N/A which is technically a non interference motor and it had bent valves, 1991 RS broken belt, no damage, 2002 EJ25 with AVCS smashed in the front and broke belt, put a new belt on and it ran. If you are not sure but have some basic mechanical skills go to pick a part (if you have a local one) $6 will get you a used timing belt, throw it on and see if it\'s ok. That way you don\'t need to spend extra on new bits if the motor is damaged. This one still ran...somehow

The one on the BP legacy i changed was a wide band, fitted a universal bosch one that apparently was same specs as the original but 15% of the price, Ran fine until it got hot then the CEL came back. Fitted a genuine one as had to get it sorted quickly for the customer, then used the sensor on a BH and no issues.

Find a radiator place with a vacuum bleeder, Best option to get rid of the bubbles, You can try parking it on a steep hill pointing up and run it up to temperature with cap off and top water up.

I use Gulf Western 10w40 semi synthetic, Cheap at $35 for 5L and is pretty good, Gulf western oil outsells most other brands on OZ

It\'s a 50/50 chance if the universal ones will work or not, tried one on a bh worked fine, bp legacy not so lucky and had to be $600 genuine one. Older cars aren\'t as picky and generally get away with cheap ones.

Installed replacement set of iridiums, Old (standard) plugs at least 100k old and not looking good, Can\'t beat ebay $44us delivered for set of 4 plugs. Unfortunately car seems to be drinking water so it\'s off the road now for some love and investigation.

The actual system it\'s self is safe, it is not possible to trigger the airbag by unplugging it or plugging it back in, It\'s triggered by a capacitor discharge from the srs control module, this capacitor is not self discharging so unplugging the battery won\'t do anything. Try opening an old srs control unit that hasn\'t been triggered even months after being removed the capacitor will still have a charge. It takes 2 sensors to detect an impact and trigger the airbag(s). Unless there was a fault with the system before removing the airbag you won\'t have any issues. The main reason for removing the battery is when replacing damaged components on a car that has had a sensor trigger, Then you disconnect the battery to help prevent voltage spikes when plugging in and unplugging the srs control system. Airbags out of the vehicle are actually more dangerous than ones fitted to the car. When in the car they are earthed through the vehicles body, when not in the car they can be subject to static electricity which can potentially in a very unfortunate set of circumstances could cause them to trigger. The main reason for disconnection of the batter (mainly on newer late OBD2 and CANBUS) cars is to prevent error codes when making changes to interconnected systems. But as mentioned you can disconnect the battery if you wanted to, there is no need to wait 30 mins, just pushing the brake pedal will remove any capacitance in the cars electrics but the srs unit will still retain the charge in the units capacitors.

Simple to fit, On the side of the wheel there are 2 holes (one each side) uses a star shaped bit, undo these, then lift airbag out, detach airbag plug (hold green bit back then slide plug apart) and undo steering wheel nut 50% of the way, grab the wheel and pull firmly, when it goes clunk remove the nut (don\'t remove completely before removing as you may damage clock spring and will smash yourself in the face with the wheel) Unplug the horn plug and carefully remove the wheel, Carefully place the wheel on and put everything back together. Airbags are not as dangerous as they make out, As long as you are careful you won\'t do any damage. There is no need to disconnect the battery, just leave the ignition off, and don\'t throw the airbag around (although i still couldn\'t set one off by throwing it at a wall several times)

Unfortunately the MTA won\'t do bugger all, it\'s just like Master builder (Electrician, Plumber) As long as you pay a fee you can put their organisations name on your signs, It\'s just a useless club, I don\'t have any mechanical qualifications but i have frequently been asked by qualified mechanics (Some MTA members) asking basic stuff they should know and have fixed some shocking bodge jobs. Best bet is small claims court, It\'s a pain but about the only way to get anything done. I have dealt with Roscoes before and although they seem to attempt to buy every Subaru they can from Turners damaged vehicle auctions (sometimes for stupid high prices) they don\'t know a lot about them, Their usual answer is do you have a part number and they simply compare part for part. They tried to tell me that there is no such thing as a 2.5L SOHC EJ251 fitted to a BH Legacy, And also that no subarus were fitted with factory immobiliser. (my car is a EJ251 sohc with factory transponder immobiliser)

Will bolt straight on. if you decide to upgrade the rear brakes WRX rear hub assembly complete will bolt on. Most of the parts are interchangeable, they basically build one body and just fit other bits depending on the spec of the car.

If it doesn\'t fit i have a B4 RSK i am dismantling, can have the O2 sensor for $30 delivered if you need it.

Pull vs push, Turbo gearboxes use a thrust bearing that clamps into the pressure plate and pulls the pressure plate away from the clutch plate, push (non turbo type) pushes the thrust bearing into the pressure plate to release the clamping force. If you are running RWD then any gearbox will do, ratios only matter if you are running AWD. I assume the car is auto at the moment? a manual hydraulic clutch assembly from any legacy/wrx 1989 - 1998 will fit.

You would need turbo flywheel, just treat it as if it was a turbo car and use all turbo bits, Easier to locate second hand anyway

I am about to do the same with my BH9 conversion, Just get turbo gearbox complete with clutch and thrust bearing, The pull type clutches are stronger so will last longer with a non turbo. Just confirm that you have matching ratios. 4 bolt/8 bolt bellhousings all interchangeable, you just use less bolts if you put an 8 bolt on a 4 bolt block.