Dairusire

Well I know @Zenkis old work did some great stuff. They're on the north shore.

It does look tidy, and a decent car. The drawback I see is that it's a Revision C as stated above. Basically the main differences between the Revision C and Revision D are the following: Different headlight design and HID's (did come on some Rev.C's) Flashable ecu for tuning New Motor design which is a stronger motor (within reason) New turbo design with less 'Valley of Death' (point where second turbo comes on and power drops and comes back) Some came with optional 4 pot / 2 pot subaru brakes, however it's hard to find examples of this now.

Would also be interested in this, however my preference would be Pukekohe but Taupo is very doable too.

With the camber bolts that are in the front sure, but that's not what I'm meaning. I'm meaning when people put in camber plates (top hats) then dial in 'all of the camber bro' and whatever else that they can do. Lots of people don't realise (I was one of those people a couple months ago) those camber plates for adjustable suspension etc, can be switched from right to left and suddenly it gives you caster instead of camber. You get the out of the box Subaru camber settings which are very reasonable and then have the added benefit of better turn in response and much much better dynamic camber while turning the wheel.

I've got a Drew's auto clutch and it's good. However Can confirm, nearly ruined motor As for the heavy clutch doing damage to thrust bearings, yes it does happen. However it's also got lots to do with if your motor was built properly in the first place, and how you treat your car. EDIT: He was talking about my car. Yeah that wasn't pretty.

Was just thinking that. Also don't understand why people run high amounts of camber in Subaru's... Considering we've got Mac struts, its a better idea to run higher caster in the front and that maybe -1.5 camber in the rear. Racecars do it, makes sense to do it for the street too, since it lowers tire wear.

It won't ruin your car. There's a bit of miss-information around however your car will be fine. Thing about Force Pro is because it's 10% ethanol and yes it's cheaper, it's sort of a false economy due to fuel usage going up. Otherwise you're all good to go.

Grant @ Final Touch. I know the man, he's been featured in NZ Performance car magazine for his work, and I know 10 other people (kwi_fozze included) personally who'll swear by his work including myself. Good pricing too and the work is top quality, so much so I'd never consider going elsewhere.

buy my CE28's mate or my StarkMS's haha

it'll transform the car, so up to you really. Twin turbo's are cool, but they cost a fair old bit to modify and keep twin.

Yeah, as far as the motor and parts go, they're not bad at all. Bore is fine, crank was all good, same with rods. Bearings were breaking down but somehow, SOMEHOW, they didn't do damage. So I went fugget and gone full honk.

What did I do on my car today (actually yesterday but w/e)? Absolutely freaking nothing. However things did snowball with engine rebuild. It basically started like the below. "just a freshen up, new bearings" "Oh, it's an open deck block" "Oh look, my friend has a Closed deck block for sale, good for high power / reliability" "Oh while it's apart, I may as well nitrate the crank for ACL race bearings" "Oh, If I'm doing that may as well forge the entire bottom end" #broke /me facedesks

Definitely not easy, yeah. It's much much easier than it used to be though. I remember as a kid growing up and hearing about these magical 250kw subarus and that was the nice stuff. Now it seems the bench mark is 300kw and that's very attainable with the new technologies available which is absolutely awesome. The new FA series motors are looking extremely promising with developing lots of power reliably without much modification at all.

My two cents. Take it to get the recall update (lol free), then if this doesn't help, go have it tuned by D-Tech. It'll help your fuel economy and probably get better power too (safer as well).

Sorry, it was a yes.

If you take it to Ajay, it wouldn't be too expensive. They're pretty easy to do afaik, but yeah take it to Ajay and have him do the lot and he'll look after you

Just an fyi, because no-one seems to mention it here or anywhere. New Zealanders are bloody horrible at brake servicing. They seem to think changing their pads / rotors / fluids is where it should stop and never do anything more. What can cause that brake noise is uneven wear due to the calipers not being serviced etc. Basically the pistons inside the caliper move unevenly or too much pressure or too little etc. You get the picture. Calipers reconditioned if it is them, should solve it. Another point is that yes it's probably the belt, however it could be the P/S pump that's creating the noise, as it may be on it's way out.

If he comes up to Rotorua, plan with D-Tech ahead of time and have them put it on their Dyno. and have them check it out. You're in Rotorua and he's selling the car, he can come with while it's being done, DON'T hand over ANY cash until it's done. That 150-200 (I'm high balling) is worth it. If D Tech say it's happy at the claimed 300kw and the box does blow the hell up when put up there, you've probably got a solid one.

I'm still on the RE002's on the RA.

lol I've started one check the forum yah git

direct copy from 2015 post: Not whats best rah rah rah Post what you have, no option, post it up & I'll try to add it any vehicle you own not just your subbie Max 10 options so I'll trim the least popular

mmmm This pretty much. Although an entry level set of teins are probably more like 800-1k

On this note, I'm also on Bridgestones now, RE002's. Use to be on Falkens. Is there anyway to update our vote on the pole?

jeeeesus haha, bridgestone winning big time in the NZ Subaru field

Aaaaaye, even in my v5 STi RA I get probably 8-8.5L / 100KM on a long haul. Das not riiight