Niran

Yeah good point. @itsmitchlowe With the new fuel setup im hoping to push a little more boost top end. But it will probably be 26-28psi i'm thinking max

@itsmitchlowe @boon last map before fueling issues had peak boost @30 psi and about 4000rpms

@itsmitchlowe guessing no speed sensor? Thinking it might be wise for me to get one then

Ohhhh right not so exciting hearing about the 7670 turbine wheel failing through lol. How did that happen? @SIRREX

@Inked I was planning to spend as little as possible give my spending over the last year Thinking this, thanks @Dairusire https://cardwells.co.nz/cardwell-racing-1-layer-race-suit.html Yei or nei??

Do you own one @Dairusire

I see there is a requirement for 100% cotton overalls or a race suit. Anyone got ideas suggestions that aren't going to break the bank?

@A_J_T car is not ready yet Still waiting for the process west surge tank kit to arrive aye. So guttered

Bloody awesome @SIRREX ! I managed 12.6 @250kw in the heavy GVB sedan complete with Sub lol Hoping to get low 11s with the new 350kw setup.

I got my new headers heat wrapped. Hopefully they last. Seems like they are performing well

@Dre yeah had a read through a few times. It doesn't have anything in there about fail safes though aye. Some pretty cool features though!

Yeah bro Ecutek hopefully

How would you go about doing this bro? Seems like the best option

Hi guys. Wanting to find out a bit more about what sensors our factory STIs come with off the bat. In particular for the new 2011 GVB models. Do they come with: Oil temperature Oil pressure Fuel pressure From the googling I've been doing, there appears to be an oil pressure sensor under the alternator? If so, surely its wired into the ECU right? Otherwise what is its purpose? The end goal here is to be able to tune fail safes into the factory ECU without messing around with aftermarket gauges and control units etc. Even if I can just get a fail safe for oil pressure into the factory ECU I'll be a happy man. Anyone got any ideas? @Pappu1 @gotasuby

Awesome meeting you today @Gripless

After delving into this topic in much detail on my build. I'd recommend looking into the fin density before you buy a core. Ideally you'd want staggered or offset dense fins that will really disrupt and then cool the charge. ETS, Process west all have proven results and there's pics to prove the fin density. Others are a bit hit and miss imo. Some of the cheaper ones like HDI and even some of the cheaper Chinese stuff for sale here in nz seem to have good dense fins which could work well also. Personally don't think the mishimoto cores are great. And the Perrin ones look awesome but aren't as dense as the ets or process west ones. Despite being soooooo pricey. Havent managed to get a pic of the cobb core fins yet, but I'd take a wild guess and say similar to Perrin. Just stay away from the stuff that is basically straight through with no offset or staggered fins.

Man i double booked myself prior and now can't make it sadly. Also still don't have my car back

What about for insurance purposes after though? If the crash beam is not there once you've put the bigger intercooler back in ?

Hey all. https://www.facebook.com/events/174537409832278/ Who's going to this? Reasonably keen to head down if we get a crew going

https://www.speedscience.co.nz/product/aem-water-meth-injection-kit/ Its a got a pretty neat control unit that lets you control when the spray comes on etc. Think it has a start setting, and setting for when its fully on.

I had 255kw and kinda got used to it. Albeit in the heavier GVB chassis. Maybe think about water / meth? Got 20 extra kw on my setup with it. And probably cheaper than a full turbo setup Re the spool thing. Yeah its all personal preference, but there is some truth to what Boon is saying. Its all about building for where your powerband is going to be. I knowingly sacrificed maybe 1000rpm of spool on my build for a bigger turbo, but at the same time put in bigger cams and valve springs and gained 1000rpm of power band up high by being able to rev to 8k instead of 6.5k-7k. Assuming my stock turbo didn't run out of chuff by 6500rpm (which it definitely did before that point), I've simply moved my full powerband up a little and got a whole lot more usable power. I thought long and hard about getting the smaller quicker spooling EFR7163. But end of the day, i'm only really sacrificing maybe 1000rpm of spool in 1st gear. After that its basically going to be an animal between changes (on paper anyway ). All in all its hard to gauge anything like this until you actually drive and feel the response or lack of. My old setup was incredibly responsive and torquey down low. Will report back when this thing is going as a good comparison

@Username i think the tuners not going over 25 psi thing is due to factory 2 bar map sensors. Cant run any higher unless you get a bigger map sensor

Wow that's amazing to hear @Username! If yours are 1.5inch runners, then the diameter is the same as my OEM ones (38mm). I'll be .83 ar on a Borg Warner efr7670. This should be very interesting! Hopefully have some results in the next couple weeks

Love the detail @pl0x! Are those stock heads? Could that be the limitation to flow here?

@Username just curious to know. What headers did you use to achieve this power level? Stock or aftermarket? @gotasuby appears to have got near the 400kw mark on OEM legacy headers which is dam impressive! I'm hoping to achieve 350kw off the single scroll OEM headers / upipe into a rotated setup on my v11. Pipe ID is 38mm from memory so hopefully will be the ideal mix of good air flow and velocity!