Loren

NZDRA cages != MSNZ cages... need to figure out which he needs... can NZDRA cages by made road legal? i.e. do they have an equivalent of the MSNZ authority card? Can NZDRA cages be used at MSNZ events?

For some reason none of the usual parts DB websites seem to have twin scroll headers... only single scroll. It's really weird... does anyone have numbers for the all the bits including heat shields?

I can see how that thing can cause a restriction now... I didn't know they where completely enclosed. That would cure the terrible surge problems the older cars had. Looks like it could benefit from a lift pump though

Unless it's too late, I wouldn't bother. Just make sure your fuel pump is good and strong. Should be plenty of room under the manifold if you get rid of the breather system... i.e. put a catch can in at the same time

It sounds like a problem that can be cured in 5 minutes with a hacksaw and a small length of rubber fuel hose.

How does it cause a restriction specifically? I can't fathom it.

If you are doing anything custom... don't expect miracles. Things go wrong. The aftermarket parts you have bolted to your car have NOT undergone the level of testing and R&D that OEM parts have. Your modified car is not going to be as reliable as an OEM car... if you want much higher performance than the OEM car provides, it's going to cost money up front, then more money to work out the initial problems, then more money for maintenance than an OEM car. Unless you know the person actually doing the work, or the person closely supervising them, has done the exact work you are asking, and on the exact same model car... don't just think they know exactly what needs to be done or all the potential pitfalls. If you don't trust that the person or workshop doing the work is capable, then either go in every day and check on the progress, or just don't give them the car in the first place. A company is only as good as the people working in it... a name means nothing. A once great company might have none of the original staff or owners that made the company great... and might actually suck. That should only be a temporary situation, as people will catch on quickly. No matter where you go, no one cares about your car or your budget like you do... why should they? You are responsible for what happens to your car and how much it costs. Get time and cost quotes for everything... if the workshop is unwilling to give a quote, then it's up to you to decide if you trust them to do it in a reasonable amount of time and for a reasonable amount of money... which is often the same thing... labour is always the biggest expense.

Was also going to suggest Rage... a pain that they rotate the flange... but it will cost very little to have it modified. I think they are slightly short too? No stainless option either.

Thanks... great link.

do you mean the end of the brake lines?

squeaking probably the bearing... but if it's very bad then the hub could be shagged... and boon said even the axle stub.

Does anyone have any v5/6 sti (preferably type r/ra) wiring diagrams... or know where to look these days? My dash is no longer working after a rushed attempt at removing some unused wiring... but it's only the second car I have done this too... so pretty sure I have learned my lesson now.

Nope doesn't change with braking. Undo the actual 32mm hub nut? Yes... or just loosen it off... if the hub nut is on super tight it can prevent any movement in the bearing, even though the bearing is rooted.

yeah, but if the spark plug was loose enough to rattle... it wouldn't have been holding any compression. Or was it not actually loose enough to move... just not as tight as it should have been?

Does it go away when you are on the brakes? Undo the hub nuts and see how loose the bearings are then.

If the bearing is squeaking it's usually because it's seized completely and the outer shell is rotating in the hub. No rumbling because the bearing is not actually moving at all. It will wreck the hub pretty quick when it gets to that stage. You should be able to move the wheel though... if not by hand, then with a crow bar under the tire. Or it could be the brake pads.

Did it feel like it was only running on 3 cylinders?

Or cut chassis rail mounts out and weld in new mounts that match the new seat brackets directly... no rails to worry about.

It's going to be hard, if not impossible to use the 3 point belt with a proper race seat... possibly not allowed in schedule A. I do not think schedule A allows the use a 5/6 point harness without a harness bar any more either.

You mean the headers used on the vf38 crap out or the motors and turbos crap out?

Cool, thanks. So the ID of the Legacy pipes is smaller than the WRX/STI?

Does such a thing exist?

Big ends can start off as a very quiet knock and progress to an all out cacophony of metal on metal noise. My engine, especially since installing hard mounts is pretty loud at idle, especially when cold. Listening to your video again I think it's completely normal noise.

I think it's normal noise... mine makes a lot of mechanical noise... do you have hard engine mounts?

It's hard to tell how loud it is on the video... could it just be normal valve train noise? Did you put some different oil in there?