Gripless

Well there are a few we’ll know places that have blown up many engines and only fix stuff if you sign an agreement to not talk about it ever. A few countries and maybe nz have cases where those agreements that exclude any damage on the dyno or tuning are not legal when challenged in court. also sticking with a bigger shop that can do everything saves a lot of hassle if something goes wrong as they can’t shift blame around.

Mine was 21.8psi with exhaust done on factory tune. ECU cut at 24psi and check light.

@Individualities Race brakes have dba rotors cheap as. i got the dba pads but they are pretty weak and I won't get them again. if you haven't already got a good price for whiteline, let me know the place I get them from might help you out too.

https://www.racetech.co.nz/shop/seats/national/RT4119W-WT-seat cost more but that new design is so much more comfortable. plus if you have to add hundreds for the cert agian the seats are all expensive. Or daily the lower sides are so much better to get in and out of when in car parks and you can't fully open the door. https://www.racetech.co.nz/shop/seats/club/RT4000WX-motorsport-seat

Also the airbag in the seat makes daily use a pain to get cret as you have to get OEM tested rails. ive got recaro ones signed off in the past so it can be done. @Niran I'll try to remember to bring my belts to the dyno day and you can have a try

Can't you just cap the pipe on the turbo side at the valve end and save $$$

Harnesses without a harness bar on a cage isn't a great idea really. The belt angles arent good. But then running a half age does take the rear seats away.

Yeah factory seats are great running harnesses. but only if you have a HANS device. Which you should have anyway and at $600 are so much cheaper than they used to be. otherwise there is nothing to stop the shoulder straps closing around your neck as the stock seat has no middle divider. Harness bolts are the international imperial thread all seatbelt use so replace the rear seat belt bolts. They come with many belts for free. you need to buy a longer bolt to replace the front belt in the bottom of the b pillar. isofix is a tiny metal rod for baby seats. If you want a seat spend the extra on the newer racetech. They are better curved at the back and way better for comfort.

No that's next to test every 12v and ground. Didnt have a meter with me today. ahvent found the fan motor relay yet either but that's unlikely to be the issue.

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2008/Impreza WRX STI 2008/ using the diagrams above I've checked the fuses and the relays swapped around that I can find. the AC panel is still dead. this makes the fan, AC and rear defogger all useless. nothing else is having issues, i.e. Dash and clock panel that share fuses are all ok. Doors etc still lock that shares the BCM. the panel died when the AC pump clutch was rubbing and I pulled the relays in the engine bay looking for the burning smell. The car wasn't running at the time. Had to cut the belt to stop the AC clutch rubbing in the end. the panel was working up until then. so either I have 2 dead relays in the engine bay the panel has failed the BCM unit has failed only to the AC area. Any ideas?

Went through every fuse and relay in AC system replaced on relay $75 still no AC panel rear heater or AC system guessing it's the ECM controller unit that has died. #%*@

Need something I can grab on an iPad. have to find where the fault is with my aircon pump and dash.

F***! bad melting burning smell from engine. turns out the AC pump clutch has shat itself. Most likely from the relay having faults as no the whole fan control unit in the dash is dead. On relay won't come out so guess it time to pull the fuse box apart lucky I had a box cutter in the car from the IC pipe fitting and just cut the belt off the dead clutch pulley. Car goes better than ever revs better idles so smooth. Just really really hot with no AC

https://www.dx.com/s/Clip?cateId=2&cateName=Automobiles & Motorcycles USD but includes shipping and likely packets of 50-100 for about NZD6-10 some will be poorly molded but not enough to care about. same place you get the OBDII stuff.

As everyone goes on holiday or really the stores close down, don't forget spare batteries for you keyless entry remotes. i had this last year and with twin hella horns anywhere near concrete walls it's pretty funny. Well it was for me, everyone nearby outside the car was unimpressed. Especially as I walked way to get a new battery. today I went to push the door open button and what do you know had to take the remote out of my pocket to get a good signal. But I keep a few spares now, and I recommend anyone who can't remember the last time they changed the battery to grab a couple. CR 1632 3v was for my Impreza cost $3 each anyway merry Xmas and happy new year all.

That nothing other than the body shell hasn't been rebuilt, replaced or enhanced. well ok there are like 4 rubber bushes still left in the rear.

Well a week late but new DNS rotors and pads fitted. 2016 STI shocks and springs retro fitted into the older 2008 grb. drop almost the same as tein gold lowering springs. 10-15mm higher but still about 25mm lower than I suspect it was factory. car is completely different to drive. The small increase in height is noticeable driving. Smaller bumps are picked up far more.

Was imported with them and never been an issue at WOF time so should be legal. they aren't super low green one and fully captive. Don't hit the guards when turning etc. car is miles off 100mm limit but low enough to look good. not sure of the sti fits the non sti models though someone on here likely knows.

I will have some GRB 2007-2014 STI shock and tein gold lowering springs spare on Monday afternoon.

Stock turbo is about the same on mine but the "i" isn't close to that low. Makes 0.5 bar easy. When I got it it wouldn't boost at all in "i" as it had a crappy rom loaded. they drop off to 15 psi up top but the gauges don't seem to drop off as fast as the true readings.

Get the new set of boots anyway. Better to swap them now than have worn ones. Plus sometimes they are worn enough that the tear when sliding them back. what are you using to fix the camber issues? Depending on the width increase extending the slot on the shocks can work, or camber plates up top.

That's a feature on some aftermarket ones only. Need an amp designed to be bridged. Likely blow the OEM amp unless it's a designed to handle it.

I think if you have a factory sub you may have to put the convertor connections to that or you may not get any bass.

What @Andy_Mac said... Which factory setup do you have? also what sub and amp are you trying to run, as some have the speaker level inputs already. Local jaycar stores could have the converters... results are mixed no matter what brand you use, sometimes they are great other times you get noise or the stereo thinks there's an amp fault. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/speaker-high-level-to-line-level-converter/p/AA0482

Does the gear shifter from the v10 6 speed fit the v11 chassis? the whole assembly that bolts to the car, not just the shifter shaft and pivot. I know the gearboxes are the same mounting and shifter pattern.