Gripless

Yip helps you get away from the cops

They still work even cracked but they don't hold alignment over bumps etc. going over bumps sounds way louder but not really any more road noise etc. that pitch stop rod is the only thing that's louder than the exhaust.

The later sti 09+ have that mount changed to something similar to the Motorsport whiteline. The Motorsport whiteline ones are a good upgrade over stock ones. Steering is far more direct and if you get the steering bushes as well you'll feel every bump and tiny stone in the road. The steering wheel feedback isn't uncomfortable but it does vibrate slightly with the road surface, so you can feel the grip level constantly. All the slop and dead zone is removed from the wheel as well so input required to turn is less. they also remove the damping of the factory bush trying to stay level so the arm moves more freely. while the stock bushes may look ok on the car, if you unbolt the arm and put a big screw drive through the bolt hole and leaver it you'll most likely see some serious cracking.

Think a mate of mine has a hks one from his old car when it was first imported.

Autolign was cheapest for the set of links I brought.

Link ecu on trade me $300 1554734632 plug and play for v3/4 possum link. or if the ecu has an rom chip you can remove it and swap it for one without the speed cut. there was ostrich that allowed the rom to be edited in realtime for about $200 in the past. Keeps the factory ecu and program just can edit all maps etc.

Guess you didn't match them up and see if it's shorter on one side or both. trademe 1552104803 has the short link that can be rotated. If one side was shorter you could swap to that and then it may stay in line. or measure up the bar and yours and email whiteline to see what it really is and what you should have.

From whiteline site, but they don't have sti listed anywhere for forester. That's using the vehicle selector to list parts not looking at the part number directly. But that's the same as the auction. If you measure the bar between the mounts are they the same?

It looks like the bar is being compressed and bowing in the middle most likely from the links binding up from the angle. Could even be hitting the exhaust as it bows. Do you have stock lower arms? As it looks like the bar is too narrow. It should end directly above the link mount for links that have both bolts on the same side. you may get away with swapping to links that have bolts coming out opposite sides. try putting the collars on the outside of the mount first that will stop the compression a little but it won't solve the problem. Those collars need to be close to the mounts or it will still move and bang about. Normally the rubber bushes stick out so the collars have something to rest against. Long story short, that bar does not fit your car with those links. Id be removing it if you daily drive it until you get a fix. you're loading that big arse bar and it will at some point either cause the back end to become unpredictable or tear a link or mount out and cause damage,

You buy a new trim panel that replaces the factory radio and makes it standard DIN sized (the size of all aftermarket radios). Most give you double DIN which is a stereo and pocket or touch screen size. Most likely from overseas as they sell for crazy money here. then you buy a pair of loom adapters. One goes from can to ISO standard, the other is ISO to the brand of stereo you buy. They are about $20 for both, even repco and supercheap have them. If you have premium audio them you need to do some more stuffing about bypassing or inter grating the factory amp. Or you buy the trim and go nuts putting in a tablet and connect it to an amp and diagnosistic port so you get all the engine data onscreen.

Spacers that size may not have the hub center ring so you end up supporting the wheels on the studs alone which isn't good.

Eccentric bolts are usually thinned down for the shocks like factory without slots Most slotted ones you just use the normal straight bolts, the amount of contact area and clamping force holds them in place. some do have special washer that turn and adjust the camber or you get a set that you change out to adjust to preset angles. MCA do list camber washers as an option for lower models and supplied with higher models. email or call them they are friendly the wheel alignment tech will set them for you based on the actual degrees you ask for if you them the shocks have adjustment on that bolt. Before that I usually just force them to the inside so atleast both sides are even and maximum camber. Good way to wear out tires though if you wait too long. I have the Tony's tire alignment card thing. Pay extra $50 on first alignment and get 5 for next two years. Can be handy for swapping shocks or going to track setup and back. Plus they swap tires around etc. Yip I'm that lazy now, car on hoist and tires all rotated.

Too low or too high?

You may find the rs wheels are forged and lightweight anyway, plus maybe wider. Same as sti has forged option with the BBS, something like 2.5 kg lighter per wheel for the same size over the 5 spoke on the v11. Better having 18x8.5 than 17x7 except for the price of tyres.

I figured the upgrade was weight saving and width, most people don't upgrade to stock wheels. Same reason I have BBS forged rims and not the ugly heavy 5 spoke. Still look at cheap factory rims as that tyre size is on big fords and Holden's, as well as loads of Audi's. maybe also the v8 Utes may run that as a race tyre and sell off the worn ones, usually pretty cheap and have a few trackdays left in them. same PCD as Peugeot too.

Maybe easier to buy something like auction 1550199774 or 1550252034 and take the tires and resell the rims. More factory 19" rims with good tires on them come up as people thing bigger wheels are better and the stock rims go cheap.

@Not_Sean remember we have chip seal roads so most american and some overseas country reviews won't help, unless you're looking for track work only. buy 3 get 1 free for Dunlop http://beaurepaires.co.nz/Buy-3-Tyres-Get-1-Free/6772/ Used this deal a few years ago to get set of sports max and they were outstanding. I think Bridgestone had same offer until Monday but may still honor it. still in 19" it won't be cheap.

Don't you lose abs and traction control as well once the check light is on?

Just got a kW one since they had the lowest price is case I didn't like it. I may get another type though as while the results are good the noise is getting irritating fast. that or modify the kW one to allow some twisting and hopefully reduces the noise.

I spun twice on my first day at Hampton. Once wasn't totally my fault, someone's car died right in front of me coming on to the main straight, lifted and got massive oversteer. Second time was on the corner at the end of the straight pushing way to hard. Both times I never actually left the track, race tracks are really quite wide. only times I've seen a person hit a barrier at manifield were stupidity. Guy spun on exit of first turn and stayed on the track, then tried to spin the car by flooring it. Ended up drifting in to the tire wall. Wasn't like he couldn't just have turned and driven off smoothly. Rest were just not braking hard enough to take the first turn.

This is very true, I have already had a return to block oil system drawn up. I keep wondering the same. got to say using a higher gear makes a lot of sense not to pump as much oil to the heads.

each generation of engine will be slightly different in the way it pumps and drains oil from the heads. I've had somewhere over fill oil in mine and it wasn't much more than 1/2L and it increased the oil coming out the breather greatly. didnt smoke so wasn't externally noticeable but coated the intercooler inside. Only reason I noticed was the intercooler had a small leak dripping onto the down pipe. once drained down to the correct level it hasn't coated the intercooler inside again. There is no evidence to prove extra oil helps or hurts. The whole thing is conjecture. Unless you're going to run exactly the same engine with and without the extra oil, at the same speed over the same line, for the same number of laps you're guessing the oil saved the engine, of it was ever going to die. With @Loren example then extra oil and baffled sump would just delay the transfer of enough of the oil into the catch can before it died. But if the catch can drained back then it may have survived. @Inked do your own testing before you hit the track, put some extra oil in there and see how your engine responds. Check the intercooler before and after, same with the catch can if you have one.

Form other cars it can be about the head oil drain design. Some Evos had the sump pickup more to one side and forward that was the issue at Hampton. I found the Subaru sump is quite deep as the exhaust hangs down below the engine so there is more under there than you expect. guess from @Loren comment the heads being low and on the sides caused the oil not to drain back and blow out the breather.

Got wheel alignment. Well got the 0.15 toe out removed back to zero, everything else stayed the same. Bit surprised after the torn up roads over Xmas break.

As for the aftermarket rods, this is what I've noticed in two days! Pluses off throttle slight bucking like bunny hopping is almost eliminated, not that it was bad before inside front wheel skips and squeaks more on polished concrete so guessing less drivetrain loss somewhere handbrake seems to be a little more effective (not sure how) gearshifts at high rpm changes are way more positive, finding the gear is easier acceleration may be increased but doubt to a point you could measure it, though more aggressive power delivery and reduhced loss when high rpm shifting engine start seems quicker from cold raspy almost boxer rumble engine note feels more solid over sharp bumps, engine has solid mount to the chassis now Minuses masssive increased noise. Both engine and gearbox. On deceleration you can here the gear whine. On acceleration above 3500rpm it gets loud. It's like race car loud, with no sound deadening, sharper raspy engine noise comes through the whole firewall and Drones a fair bit. on startup you can here the firewall mount creaking gearshifter vibrates a bit more pretty sure the firewall mount is taking a hammering and may fail prematurely did I mention the noise? It's like a droning exhaust, in town it was fine but longer higher rpm driving its loud, about 4 times the engine noise. Luckily it's mostly above 3500rpm so not horrible at 100kph cruising its like driving with the window open, more white noise with the engine noise mixed in For $65 and 30 minutes that anyone should be able to do. (2 bolts for rod and intercooler takes... 2 bolts, 2 BOV bolts, 2 pipe clamps, 2 hose clips, and 3 pipes that pull off) If you can deal with the noise and future firewall mount rewelding it's makes a noticeable difference and is worth the money. ps I already have sti group N mounts and the whiteline diff and gearbox/shifter mounts all replaced. If you don't you make get bigger benefits and more noise.