Optical

could be brake discs

Yes I log mine, centres ar 2.5V, then 1.5v/g swing in either direction. Same range on the dccd sensors this is a g circle I logged from two sensors at hamptons

huh? i activates a relay when the frequency goes above X, it deactivates the relay when the frequency drops below something a bit less than X

that kit has hysteresis built in already, so you dont need to anything

dont do it, the 250t shortblocks have weak rods, weak bores and weak pistons. it wont last 5 mins.

do you want some v3 sti cams? i have a set...

The ones that leaked for me were the swivel fittings from STA, straight out of the box shitters. I haven't had any trouble with fixed ones from STA, but using Earls, speedflow, FRP or XRP fittings saves you headaches and paranoia for a bit extra $

yes v1-6 the sti racks have a range of ratios, 2.5 is most common, 2.2 if you find a needle in a haystack

You want one from a GC8. It will bolt straight in, but keep the BD universal joint as they are notched and car specific. a v7 or 8 one will fit the subframe but you'll have to fabricate a custom universal joint, and that cant be certified if a warrant man calls you up on it. also the power steering lines all attach, but you might have to bend them to get the angles right. no big deal there.

if you're making 11psi at 4500rpm with a vf28 i think there is still a problem?

This is a datalog from my car, you can see the EGBP (white) is a bit less than MAP (orange). This is good. Most turbos only like to make more power when the EGBP is less than 1.2x MAP pressure Reasons why EGBP is higher than MAP are due to exhaust restrictions (headers, turbine housing size, post turbo exhaust), or the turbo being maxed out

if you guys want to really know what's going on, put a fitting in your up pipe and measure the pre turbo exhaust pressure (EGBP). It will tell you everything you need to know get a sump plug or whatever will thread into an o2 sensor port, weld about 40cm of steel brake line, then run a vac hose from the other end of the line to a MAP sensor. then log the pressure against intake manifold pressure

dont bother and get new ones? ;D

The forrester bushes have more offset so will give you more caster, but wont stiffen it per se read up on caster and macpherson strut geometry to give youself an idea of what it does.

The gt in question was a 3071 (not 76), and had a custom turbine housing that I understand is smaller than a gt30 0.63. (Built by turbo dynamics in the UK). So the power level is about bang on target, certainly agrees with the compressor and turbine maps. In each case the turbo was custom tuned to peak it's potential. If it were running an oem ecu or the same base tune then yes results would look wierd. But this is not the case here. The boost choosen was the level at which peak torque was made, as any good tuner will do. So the level doesnt matter. Either the turbo couldnt run more, or it didnt make more power if it could. What i'm wondering is if by back cutting the turbine wheel you limit the ability of the wheel to extract power from the exhaust gas, thus incresing boost threshold. Couple that with (maybe?) a higher intertia compressor wheel and the boost threshold becomes even higher. That would explain the large amount of extra lag. I understand the back cut is done so EGBP is reduced and VE will increase at higher rpm. So couple that with a higher flow compressor to make the most of the increased flow potential, makes sense. But for whatever reason that power potential isnt being realised, or at least not to the point where the extra 10kw peak power justifies the increased boost threshold and narrower powerband. Perhaps a better option is to put vf3x compressor wheels to older vf2x turbos? It's still unclear what performance increase the back cut gives though. Do you have a dyno (of the same same same) comparing a back cut VF vs a non back cut turbine and with the same compressor? Also note none of these turbos are mine and I have no bone to pick. This info is out there for everyone so i'm just interested.

I have GC bars on my GD running gear, front and back.

pardon me for asking. (for the record i can be a total f***wit at times, but im genuinely trying to learn here). Correct me if i have misinterpreted you, but i think what you are trying is different setups produce different results and/or dyno differences? As mentioned, in this case it was the same setup and only the turbo was different so we can eliminate the dyno from consideration. You could call it a controlled environment. I dont really want to 'take my pick' as to the reason, it's your product. Are you not at all concerned by this? The exact power numbers dont matter, it's the relative differences here that are relevant. So again, what is your expert analysis on why this was?

what mods were done to the v7 - thats bloody good bro!!!! Was on a version 4 STI, just like the one Steve posted of his modified oem turbo, except this turbo was not modified and is making more power everywhere As Steve as recently learned though, you can adjust the dyno parameters to make boost come on early or late, you can also make it read whatever power you like. So we must agree posting dyno sheets is a hapless cause. I also would like to hear Steve's analysis on the three compared turbos (one his) that were tested in controlled conditions as we know dyno discrepacy can be eliminated. Nothing like learning from the experts

vf34 http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/9249/vf3420.jpg

you just learnt this? what's great about the information posted is that it is from the same car, same engine setup, same dyno, same dyno settings same same same Just different turbos. so apart from dyno operator conspiracies, any other theories?

from memory another 2psi made another 4kw. So was out of legs

Hmm not sure, remind me? Ive only removed aircon (-10kg?) Added 6mt (+45kg), brembos (60kg in total, +15kg?), big intercooler (+5kg?), big radiator (+5kg), other coolers (+5kg), big exhaust (+5kg?). I'd say it would have been well under 1200 to begin with... how much does the sound deadening weigh?

im guessing you have small brakes and a 5 speed trans? im gutted as my GC weights 1245kg haha. yeah serious $ to start reducing weight after cutting out as much of the surplus steel as you can

Cold start tuning can be tricky to get right on the first go so it's no surprise it's not great. You can sort it out yourself. Sounds like there's too much fuel and maybe the cold idle rpm is too low. Open pclink and look at your warmup enrichment table and your idle control tables. Go from there

wonderbar! thanks, just what i was looking for