funkytown

tick is reasonable, literally \'nugga nugga nugga\' no good. good it .. there are hundred of examples on youtube.

Horizontal bores ppl. 99.99999% of all start up chuffs. If it chuffs away on over run or on boost... -> then turbo seals

LOL could be 1 of several things. if your trying to imply its DEFINITELY compressor seals you are full of hot air. most of the time its actually a small film of oil that sits the bottom of the bores, given the horizontal piston nature of our engines, and so it pools, and then burns off at start up.

subaru = normal as. means its healthy.

google is your friend

always better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission...

hey russ ;D say this to yourself

all the AEM 5v stuff works. there is a masssssive list of stuff thats compatible with link. we use these for oil & fuel pressure, either as a normal reading for dash or as a GP limit. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-658676504.htm and we use these ones for water and oil temp, specifically as we run the turbo water on a different circuit to radiator we log and check its not to hot. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-657889870.htm tbh i think you\'re only concern is the ecu <-> dash. i know all the AEM stuff pipes to ecu just fine.

a link will use any 5v sensor Russ, usually if its a reasonable sensor it comes with its own calibration table and you just pipe that into the link and it will read correctly. I use AEM temp (oil or water) and pressure (150psi for oil), there are a host of other ones you can get for boost and temps if you really need em. seems to me that what your link needs (sensors) and what it can pipe to a display are two different things here chap? you need to make sure gauges <-> ecu are compatible and ecu <-> cluster. i know the AEM stuff and link is a perfect arrangement to get the inputs to the ecu

No i bought just sensors and link uses them directly

AEM 5v stuff is what you need

Arent those bottom ones the nz new varient

cheaping on the brake pads... crashed your car.. so back at you champ... \'at what cost\'

Endless N35S here. epic. better than znollei\'s <- had a habit of going off after more than about 6 hot laps.

you caaaarn\'t are way rough i pipe 320wheel through my r160 dccd and yet to break anything it does do wicked slideways though

as a side note on the BP discussion i also own pre face lift auto BPE. lovely to drive, very refined. manual i found was also hunting for the next gear as its so torquey. I\'ve also test driven a few of the post facelift auto and they are more refined yet again, the SI drive is stupid but they made some real good enhancements to the way the 5AET shifts. worth considering if you have the coin. either way the EZ30D ® is a wonderful donkey. * for those that dispute the D / R thing.. go check your chassis tag

Lol uv been at nightwars Odd it still selects gears.. does it try and drive in any gear? Ususally a split cog jams the box. Test axles like marky said.. and drop the gearbox oil to see if its chunky

how spirited? describe more what happened. either is going to be a cv, clutch or you\'ve lost some cogs

The frnt sway bar does. The rear mostly nah. Suspension is different

noting a swap bar really only controls the relative differential between each sides ride height in an attempt to keep the car flat... it shouldn\'t make any difference lowering it, as lowering should drop each strut the same (and therefore the lateral arms position) relative height to the chassis pick up point. if though.. you have height adjustable coil overs and you corner weighted the car including driver etc.. then yes you might expect there to be a slight difference as a result of the lowering.. but thats only because you\'ve deliberatively set different heights at each corner.

\'most\' factory cars end up with some preload on the sway bar, this is evidenced by trying to remove the sway bar and the bolts wont come out or go in nicely with out jacking up one wheel. preload on the bar does odd things to the suspension during its normal travel under driving conditions, its undesirable with out trying to speak technically and getting it wrong. its just not good.

the \'adjustable things\' you are talking about is as simple as removing the swaybar mount , see below, and placing spacers between the mount and chassis rail. costs you nothing. and im talking about the far outside bolts, not the small clamp that holds the sway bar bush. space down with washers on one side till you can do put the bar on and off without needing to jack one wheel up or down.

so we agree then?

ah yes right. so NRG one is identical to that. in fact i had one of those i just chucked out. lol

not quite sure about airbag delete and what that entails, but it works v7 on either, so assume it works gc pre or post airbag. there is space in my NRG boss for clockpspring and horn bits and peices.