Kiwiflyboy

As above pretty normal. Should notice a period of lag and then at 5000rpm all of the fun starts to happen. Being year 99 version b/c will have a bit more of a slow/low boost compared to the last version they made. Is it auto or manual? My auto if you left your foot flat it will change to the next gear and be straight back into the power at 5000rpm was excellent for passing

I do like the black or dark ones but have owned before and found a PITA for scratches and keeping clean. The white pearl has a nice shine and don’t show marks or dirt as much. We have a young toddler so expect the odd scratch or ding.

Wow so it is, that one almost identical to mine. Except Mine had the sti lip, sti springs, and sti exhaust quad tips, inside I also had the defi controller and Gauge and different headunti with the cruise control and media controls. So I’m guessing the media controls will be plug and play unsure about the cruise control but guessing that same. I brought my 2010 with 90000km for 21k almost 2 years ago now

There are steering wheels with the buttons on trademe if you get one that doesn’t and should be plug and play if the head unit you have supports it. Most should have the cruise control and audio though other wise will be a basic spec model

The top of the “dash” is paint a non reflective Matt black. Still as it gets old it reflects stuff thoigh

If your in chch feel free to come have a look at mine and I can show you around what to look for from what I seen so farWhoops sorry@sobanoodle didn’t mean to tag you in that one

I stand corrected. These lot seem to know much more than me which is pretty easy to do lol.

This is the one you selling isnt it? Just saw it come up on facebook for sale the other day. Hope you had it insured for something decent

Pretty sure the link ecu doesn’t support the obd2 plug as it’s all done via the inbuilt USB plug

What about oil pressure is the link got that info? Is the pressure getting to low?

If only water and gets to 100 or over will really pressurise the system. Coolant/antifreeze increases the boiling point so 100 degrees won’t boil. Prob should look at how the air is flowing to the radiator. EG anything in front of it that can reduce the flow like intercooler, aircon. I removed my aircon and that made a good difference to the temps as now air flows straight to radiator and out the back. Also does the air have anywhere to go after it gets into the engine area. Under car plastics can stop the flow unless they have enough openings at the back or airflow aloud to flow out the top. The drift guys put spacers under the bonnet hinges to lift the back part by the window to help hot air escape

Hmm, if it is getting up to 100 then you may want to look at that, not terriable unless its only water in the cooling system lol! mine sits around 80-85 out on the track

edit on the above is it oild temp or water temp you talking about?

100 is fine, oil will not have any issues till about 130 were it will start to degrade and brake down. 90 -110 is the happy range in our new outback. remember low oil temp is also a problem as it becomes to thick and hard to push through the smaller galleries. this is why you can see really high oil pressure when its cold too

This was mine when it was really just hanging out It should be almost flush up against the diff. When it comes out under power well mine did sometimes it would make a crunch noise too as the spines slipped

Check the rear drive shafts. One of mine in the forester popped out and felt like a slipping clutch hen would engage on splines for a bit before popping off Again. The front shafts have pins to lock in but he rears just pop in depending on what type you have

https://partsouq.com This website should be able to help you https://www.japanparts.com/ Can as well

Had this with DHL and shipping from Singapore before. It went to Germany then made its way to NZ...........

Quick search on youtube and you can hear examples of others worried how much noise it making.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1454095787.htm This is the only white one on trademe that looks like it has a non Japanese headunit. Someone installed a newer one at some stage. Best bet get a white one don't matter if jap import or not and then take it to hyper or rapid radio or some place like that in Auckland and get them to install one or give you the options you could take at getting the setup you want done

Can tell if NZ you weather it already registered in NZ from the year it was made. If not on the rego label it will show a date in small area that will show the date it was first registered in NZ. eg the model on the rego will show something like 2010 Subaru legacy and then a small area will show 10/17 which tells you it a fresh import into NZ and only just been registered in October this year.

If you want all the hands free built in and working get a NZ new one. All the jap import ones will have a unit in Japanese and most of the car company’s cut all the wires and remove bits that are hanging around the window and so on. Best bet is NZ new or look at getting one installed. They range in price from cheap to $1500 depending on how flash you want to go.

That oil is fine but prob on the expensive side for a stock 2.0. Magnatech 10w40 prob more in line or something like that. As for guide on how to do it. Heaps on YouTube or maybe ask a local club sub member for some help? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Both should retract when push the button or lock the car and then start car should pop them out. Yesterday for some reason both mine failed to open up on the first attempt? Hope not a sign of them failing or just a we glitch as the car started.

What did you do about the threaded screw holes that are built into the bumper?